Custom Built 4k Upright Motor Fitting

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I'm expecting all those things on my path.

Edited May 11, 2008 by [email protected]

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:D If all this does go as planed for me I was thinking of making a bunch of these kits witch would includ the 2 engine mounts that will bolt on to the cross member + rubbers and a full gearbox cross member with a 30 degree slant for the gearbox.

MY DESIGN IS ONLY BASED ON A KE55, K50 STOCK GEARBOX!!!

 

These parts will be all cleaned up and painted in matt black or gloss black. :P:

 

Stand up and be counted if you would be interested in these parts just for an idea of interest. :)

 

A price wont be decided untill i can gather all the info on the cost of steel, rubber, second hand and re-enforced cross member, other materials and the complicity of the build (labor). The price wont be too hi... :)

Edited May 11, 2008 by [email protected]

[lappy]

If you could find a TIG welder and a bandsaw you could cut the bellhousing with a bandsaw then reweld it back on at the desired angle that is what i would do then you keep the shifter and crossmember standard.

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incorect. what do you do with the clutch cable it wouldnt go in a straight lint it would kink. or you would have to re-weld something like a new braket on to the engine block so hold the cable.

 

my way you just bend the shift stick at the lowest point at a 30 degree angel so you can use 1st and 5th gear.

[SLO-030]

weld the 30deg wedge straight onto the std cross member then people can still use their own crossmembers without forkin out for new ones. then mount the rubber to the wedge and all will be sweet.

 

CHEERS

Ryan

[Medicine_Man]

weld the 30deg wedge straight onto the std cross member then people can still use their own crossmembers without forkin out for new ones. then mount the rubber to the wedge and all will be sweet.

 

CHEERS

Ryan

 

You are forgetting the most important part, The oil pickup and the sump.. Modification needed there too.

 

Also you may require custom extractors as the extractors may hit the body when you try and uprite the motor..

[SLO-030]

i knew that just talkin bout the gearbox side of things

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my cross memberes will be twice as strong as the original ones + you wont have the room to have both options on the same cross member, too much re-enforcment.

 

this kit wont cost a lot as well. between $100 and $150 promiss. and it will all be a bolt on thing that will take half a day to do. these are all good questions use are asking me so keep em coming, there are no bad questions on this post. :D

[Felix]

I don't really understand why you would bother with uprighting a K motor if you are still just going to run a downdraft carby. The reason they uprighted them was so that the inlet manifold for twins had a straighter smoother shot into the ports, thats where they made their extra power.

 

If you upright your motor and run a downdraft manifold, you are going to put a 30 degree kink in your intake path. LOL. Plus you will need custom extractors as any off the shelf ones will most likely hit the floor, wanting to point through the firewall.

 

Just sounds like a lot of f@$king around for no good reason.

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all this has been calculated people. the oil pick up pipe will be cut of from the lowest point if it is 1 of the newer types, and will have a stiff rubber hose and 4 clamp on it to extend the unit to reach the oil. if it is one of the older types that i have 2 of with the 2 pipes that are curved and have a little filter on the end, just cutt it all off and extend it all and put the little filter back on the end of it with a few hose clamps and silicon.

 

the sump itself wont have to be moded in any way, shape or form. i did explain all this first up 2 times people.

 

the extractors, well thats a little problem, not hard, by what i know the extractors themselvs will clear the fire wall but the exhaust pipe might need to have a little bend put in it. when i was first working on my car with the stock system i noticed that with your hands you can lift the whole lot up and twist it on a 45deg angel and it would only just hit the curve of the fire wall and the carbie was nearly as high as the bonet line without a filter so this wont need a lot of work.

 

hence why this is all called "custom work". i can suply all mounting units for a good price but little things like that you people will have to do, and keep in mind not every sport exhaust system is the same.

 

give me time and i will describe every little detail with a heap of picks and mm measurements for the people who are able to do the DIY. keep the questions coming...

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felix could you pleas read my post from the start, it is full of detailed info. i said i would face the intake manyfold 90 deg to the carbie port!!!!

 

"custom, custom, custom".

 

and the good reason is to stop the pistons from trying to shoot 30deg through the block at 8000+RPM and grinding the rings away. also and i quote cos it happened to me doing 360's, oil is forced to the back of the head and sump so you do the math:owned:

[Felix]

felix could you pleas read my post from the start, it is full of detailed info. i said i would face the intake manyfold 90 deg to the carbie port!!!!

 

I did. Think about what I wrote.

 

and the good reason is to stop the pistons from trying to shoot 30deg through the block at 8000+RPM and grinding the rings away. also and i quote cos it happened to me doing 360's, oil is forced to the back of the head and sump so you do the math:owned:

 

There are many competition K motors out there that are still slanted and don't have problems. 5 minutes with a die grinder to clean up the casting flash in the head where the oil drains back helps.

 

Seeing as you aren't modding your sump, is your oil pickup going to sit at a 30 degree angle to the bottom of the sump?

 

Is your mate with the 100 rwkw 3k helping?

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3rd time! the oil pick up will be cut ra ra ra ra and extended ra ra ra ra on a 90deg angel ra ra ra ra to reach the bottom of the sump ra ra ra ra. next question. pleas.

 

and if you think I'm doing thr the extra power than I'm sorry but your sadly mistaken as the info that i have read and i highly dought it said "10-30hp increas WITHOUT THE TWIN SIDE DRAFT CARBS". I'm expecting something like 1.0 or less hp not bhp ok.

 

my next and main point is i don't like my engine bay and love the idea of a vertical engine, i look at a slant engine and its just so 40's style, time to bring the old age into the new age, it don't have to make you happy love.

Edited May 11, 2008 by [email protected]

[irokin]

You realise with the amount of dicking around you're doing for something "custom" (read: copy what everyone else has done) you could quite easily put a 4A-GE in....or even an SR20DET and have far more than double the power output of the pathetic K motor. The only reason you'd do so much work to upright them and make that little bit more power is if you had no other option due to class rules. Save yourself the headache and just do an engine conversion. I'm not even going to start picking holes in your plans....just too many.

[Felix]

Have fun. :)

 

:D