chestikoph1 Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 (edited) Hi Not sure if this should go here but anyway. Just lowered the rear of my ke55 and the tyres sit pretty close to the lip of the guard, they don't quite touch, but when driving with lateral movement of the diff and when the wheels suck up into the guard they would have scrubbed. So i rolled the lip of the guard up. The following is rough guide with some pics, Guard rolling/flaring tool. The machine can be hired, or maybe even buy one between a few mates, it should only cost you about $70 - $100 each between 3 or 4 mates. Considering the going rate is about $55 dollars per guard, if you do all 4 you're still up, plus you have the machine for future cars. (sorry about the dodgy photos, the auto focus was playing up) First i gave the guards a good clean especially underneath the lip, you don't want to trap any mud or crap under there, that will cause rust in the future. Bolt the tool to the hub or drum with your wheel nuts. They are set up for mutiple stud options, position the roller at the top of the guard, with roller hard up against the lip. Before you start rolling you must soften up your paint (to try and mimimise cracking of the paint) use a hair drier or a heat gun on low to WARM up the paint DON'T OVERHEAT IT WILL BURN !! At this point start to roll your guard by turning the hub or drum around, don't go to far around only about the top third of it needs doing. WARNING (if you have any bog near the lip of the guard, cracking might be unavoidable, so be prepared for this, and don't freak out if this happens) Edited January 24, 2009 by chestikoph1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 (edited) Now keep on adjusting the roller as you go you can adjust the hieght and angle as you progress The lip should slowly be getting follded under The further you go the more the roller needs to be behind the lip once it s flat, stop Youre done!! If you keep going, you will start to flare out the guard, you can only go so far when flaring it out before it starts to distort. You could do all that with just a peice of pipe or a hammer, but the finish isnt as good. Hope that was entertaining, any questions fire away that was as brief as i could make it, but it isnt to hard. Edited January 24, 2009 by chestikoph1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PHATKE20S Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Nice finish mate :) Where did you get that from? Looks like a good investment.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Thanks mate I bought the roller ages ago from a panel beating tools supplier with the intention of making some extra cash but lost interest and ive only done my own cars since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mybowlcut Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Awesome write-up! It's great when people take time out of their day to help people out. Can you notice that only the top third is done when you're looking at the car? Also, do you know of the cost to hire one of these? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam-__- Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Nice write up mate. The guard rollers can be purchased from Bursons. Some states might not have the store, but it's similar to Super Cheap, just more professional. I think they were going for about $150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 You can't really notice that only some of the guard has been done You could do all of it but its not needed. By keeping some of it unrolled it helps retain the guards shape. $150 is hell cheap, from memory mine cost about $400 and thats at wholesale, must be better quality (i hope) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StasIII Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 I'm going to be doing this to mine. thanks for the info . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13BT_KE20 Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) ive always had mine done the old fashioned way. heat gun and rubber mallet never had any problems with cracking paint, even with the old paint on one of my past cars. edit: IMO top 1/3 is all thats needed, as said it helps keep the guards shape Edited January 24, 2009 by 13BT_KE20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam-__- Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 $150 is hell cheap, from memory mine cost about $400 and thats at wholesale, must be better quality (i hope) Quite a few people had issues with the rollers I was talking about. It works for awhile then it would snap. Reweld it then it's good as new and shouldn't break again. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE ping it real Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Top Shelf article & write up :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mybowlcut Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 You can't really notice that only some of the guard has been done You could do all of it but its not needed. By keeping some of it unrolled it helps retain the guards shape. $150 is hell cheap, from memory mine cost about $400 and thats at wholesale, must be better quality (i hope) Excuse my lack of knowledge... but what do you mean by keep the guards shape? From what I understand (not a lot :)), you're only tucking the lip under the guard, right? I didn't think it changed the actual guard in a big way except for poking a strip of metal out of the way? ive always had mine done the old fashioned way. heat gun and rubber mallet never had any problems with cracking paint, even with the old paint on one of my past cars. edit: IMO top 1/3 is all thats needed, as said it helps keep the guards shape Heat gun and rubber mallet sounds good! Would be a lot cheaper too.. I wouldn't buy a guard roller but am still interested to know how much it is to hire one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 the lip at 90 degrees will make the whole guard stiffer. Folding it in will remove some of that stiffness. I wouldn't worry about it that much though, just don't lean on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corolla_nut Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Great job :hmm: I love it when people write up stuff like this, it gives you a bit of an idea. I've been thinking about doing this for a while and it doesn't look too hard! Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 If I get around to it today I'll put it in the FAQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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