what does uprighting the K motor do?

what do u mean by uprighting? can't really help u with that. did u hear that as a term?

cheerz

Carl :D

is that a fact? or just a rumour? about the hp gain

Edited April 27, 200521 yr by wilson_610

What wilson means is mounting it more upright. Apparently you can get more power out of the K engine by doing this, but I don't know how, or why...

what sort of money are the kits?

ahhh gimme gimme i want the kit!!

can i ask why toyota in the first place slanted their engine? i mean if they then sold a kit to sit it upright to make more power y didnt they just put it right in the first place? also, how does this achieve more power? and would u have to modify other mounts such as gearbox etc? wanna know prices to hehe

cheerz

Carl :D

shit oh well back to the drawing board to get more hp hmmm

the engine was slanted originally to fit in ke10 engine bays, as it's quite a tall upright engine in one of them. that was the reason most engines in the 60s were slanted (chrysler/dodge slant six, etc). by then, toyota already had mass production tooling for manifolds and oil pickups and whatever, so it was more cost effective not to change it when the ke20 onwards got a bigger engine bay

 

the problem with the engine being slanted is that on long right hand corners (turn 1+2 of QR would be a great example) oil builds up in the right rear corner of the tappet cover, eventually starving the rest of the engine of oil (super bad), and potentially blowing out of the tappet cover all over your engine bay and exhaust manifold. i've had this happen to me, as has doug, as has stewart. it's a total smokeshow, not the good kind :D

 

the upright kit includes mounts and a new oil pump pickup, as the factory oil pump pickup is on a 30 degree slant just like the engine. i would also be inclined to grind out the casting dag next to the pushrods for increased oil flow, you should be doing this on a modified K motor anyway. it needs that more when the engine is slanted than upright

 

you also need to insert a wedge into the manifolds, so they go back to flat, and still seal against the heads

 

as nick said, then the gearbox is on a 30 degree angle and shifting is a little wierd, especially in 5th. i don't think a K-T bellhousing corrects for this either

When you go to upright you were supposed to buy the upright bellhousing for the t series box and use that but you can use a t series box or k series box on the lean.K series boxs don't last long.As for using a wedge in between the manifold face and manifolds no you use a flat alloy adapter plate which has countersunk allen head bolts and then you change the stud pattern and have your inlets seperated from exhaust and the extra room allows for heaps easier removal/access to carbs starter,better exhaust etc ive built 4 now and will be doing a few more.

the biggest thing with the upright is, it's f**ken easy to change the starter motor. :D

 

there is big hp and torque gains from standing the engine upright, alot of it comes down to the intake runner length. but as jamie said oil return is one of the advantages.

 

the upright kits are non existent, even we couldn't get a TRD bell housing, but we did get a K-t one with cable setup for the clutch.

 

there is alot of work to standing them upright, engine mounts,gearbox, mount, oil pump and pickup, extractors,inlet manifolds and base plate,sump,rad hoses,gearstick and there is some other little bits as well.

 

we've had this upright since 1989, and has been the best thing we done to the engine, not only for performance but for changing things quickly

(much needed in rallys).

 

i know that we brought the last kit in NZ but i have heard of copies being made.

 

for me the holy grale would be to find a TRD bell housing, maybe one day!!!

 

if your in brisbane, we have rally coming up in the next couple of weeks, come and have a look and i'll try to answer any questions you might have.

the K-T bellhousing does change the rotation of the gearbox.

 

please correct me if i'm wrong.

 

i'll soon find out when i put mine in and start feeling passengers up.

one of the reasons the engine was slanted is cause it was a copy of the dodge slant six...just look at em and compare

japanese designers in the early days were very restricted so had to make do with copies

the k gearbox was an Opel copy as was the ke1x front suspension.

the 8rc and 18rc were copies of the opel 1900 engine

the datsun L16, 18,20(and the zcar sixes) were copies of the mercedes engine

look at all the early japanese stuff and you will see glaring similarities to previously manufactured stuff

(the landcruiser f engine was a copy of a chevy 6 cyl.....) :D

The K-T bellhousing does not change gearbox rotation unless is a trd upright bellhousing

I would have thought that the biggest gain in using an uprighted engine would be the ease of fitting side draught carbies in early engine bays. Just my theory though...

Meh 2x BDAs on 48s driven by Juha kankkunen in the Otago Rally up Whare Flat chasing Pasi Hagstrom that beats it. :D