thanks mate :yes:

i lost the fight to paint the underside of the car body color but i won the war to get some body color under the car :wink:

Edited February 11, 201016 yr by 1JZKe55

:wink:

 

Serious build is serious...

thanks mate :(

i lost the fight to paint the underside of the car body color but i won the war to get some body color under there :wink:

What did you end up doing underneath?

 

Edit: would also love some pics of the engine bay with the better camera. :yes:

Edited February 11, 201016 yr by 67Rolla-Ken

we ended up etch priming and using a black stonegard on the underside keeps it easy to touch up and painted all the suspension xmember body color in a urethane 2pack more chip resistant than normal 2 pack paint its very handy when your dad runs 1 of the biggest crash shops in adelaide lol

more random pic's

Hey,

 

You i guess you can adjust the pinion angle by adjusting the 4 link setup?

 

Or would the suspension stop you from moving it back/forwards?

Hey yeah height,bound,rebound,pinion angle is all adjustable with this set up

trying to work out how much room i've got for everything still gotta find some where for the oil cooler :)

Coming along very nicely. Love the sheet metal work - great build quality.

Coming along very nicely. Love the sheet metal work - great build quality.

 

 

thanks mate

Its always good to hear what other people think of it :)

Squat! :) Loving the diff and rear suspension. Convo Pro's are killer.

 

Now I've read in a few threads and have been told by a couple of people that when you're welding a really long stretch

of weld, it's best to do it in short strips and leave a gap before the next one. The reason being is that if the weld breaks,

it might crack along the whole weld... I see that there's lots of LONG welds in your engine bay and since you're running

lots of power (I assume so :fuzz: ) it is unlikely, but it could crack in the event of the chassis twisting... But, since you're

a bloody handy panel fabricationer, you must have a reason for doing the job how you've done it.

lol it would be funny if the jz wasn't ready so you drove it around with the k motor with all those goods

Squat! :hmm: Loving the diff and rear suspension. Convo Pro's are killer.

 

Now I've read in a few threads and have been told by a couple of people that when you're welding a really long stretch

of weld, it's best to do it in short strips and leave a gap before the next one. The reason being is that if the weld breaks,

it might crack along the whole weld... I see that there's lots of LONG welds in your engine bay and since you're running

lots of power (I assume so :bash: ) it is unlikely, but it could crack in the event of the chassis twisting... But, since you're

a bloody handy panel fabricationer, you must have a reason for doing the job how you've done it.

 

Hey

yes your sooo right but somethings you can't stitch weld and has to be fully welded the fire wall was 1 of those

 

the firewall is made of 6 individual bits of steel welded together if i stitched it together it wouldn't have enough strength in it

 

you really gotta make sure when your welding that you get enough penetration in your weld you should be able to see it coming through to the other side of what ever your welding

 

for those people who wanna seam weld their whole car don't your better off welding 25mm leave 40mm weld 25mm leave 40mm and so on just as strong and you wont warp your car as much :y:

 

just something for the hell of it in the earlier photos of the car been held up by the block and tackle i welded 2 half chain links to the xmember just sort of an idea how strong my welding is i've passed all my x ray testing 1st time every time

started slicing and dicing the rad support today for the intercooler almost got it sitting where i want it

that is sweet as mate! let me be the first to say....that is an effing big intercooler! no problems with cooling i am guessing.