ok so when installing my dizzy, am i allowed to stick a screwdriver down the hole in the block to turn the slot that the dizzy fits into, so that the dizzy can fit?

 

Sure can.

 

As for not rotating.... Is your camshaft timing setup correctly? No piston valve contact at all? Did the bottom end spin over freely before you put the head on?

You should need to use a screw driver on the oil pump drive slot. Just get the timing right (ie dizzy NOT 180* out) and it'll sit up about 5mm as this slot isn't alligned. Then just turn the motor over (although this is a problem at the moment) and the dizzy shaft will turn but not the oil pump. Then when it does line up it'll drop in and that 5mm gap will be gone. :cool:

I just find this way easier than trying to get it in the right spot with the dizzy out.

well i havent touched the camshaft since i got the engine so it should be fine, and i don't think the pistons would be touching as i have a flat top head with not that much compression, yes it did spin freely before the head was put on,

 

should i take out the spark plugs?

 

or should i just take off the head again, i don't see why it wouldnt be spinning...hmmm

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by anastasios

yes it did spin freely

 

Then it still should!

 

Whatever you do don't force it!

 

Will it turn backwards?? If so then a piston is hitting a valve as it comes forward.

 

If it won't turn either way take off the rocker gear and try it. If it still doesn't turn then its head off to see why. At least with the rocker gear off you can lean on the spanner a bit and see it its just ring friction.

If I put on the head gasket dry am i able to reuse it when i take off the head?

 

Maybe its the pistons hitting the gasket? as its got the slightly larger pistons?

Maybe its the pistons hitting the gasket? as its got the slightly larger pistons?

 

...with the same deck height as the block? :cool:

yea i really wasnt thinking, its really pissing me off lol plus i have a stupid uni exam tomorrow, ok well ill guess ill start by taking off the rocker gear and trying it again

so you can't get it to turn over? Pull the plugs out, otherwise you're turning against the engine compression.

so you can't get it to turn over? Pull the plugs out, otherwise you're turning against the engine compression.

 

You should be able to still turn it over even with the plugs in. Obviously be a lot harder.

 

Is the car in neutral. :cool: Thought I'd better ask after the waterpump pulley incident. :dance:

The engine is out of the car and on the floor, I loosened the head bolts and it turned, so I took the head off to take a better look at it

 

I put the gasket on dry but it seems to have come apart in a couple spots, would it be a good idea to get a new genuine gasket while i am at it?

 

I think I will put the head back on without spark plugs and see if it turns then.

 

Nothing seems wrong with the head

 

 

Ok I now think my dizzy is kind of right, yes i have turned it clockwise a bit to line it up better

 

 

 

This pic is of the headgasket and where it has split, I think it will be genuine toyota this time

 

 

What you guys think?

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by anastasios

At TDC are the pistons level with the top of the block or a tad lower? Alternatively do they protude slightly above the deck of the block and have possibly been hitting the firing ring of the headgasket?

 

It is a 5k headgasket and not a 4k item? I know it may seem a stupid question, but once I bought an ex-turbo 5k and the guy had problems with blown head gaskets... He was running a 4k head gasket.

 

Just trying to cover all bases.

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by Felix

Ok at TDC the area that has the carbon build up on top of the piston as seen in the pics, protrudes about half a mm or less higher, most of the piston is flush though.

 

I'm pretty sure its a 5k gasket however the firing rings are not perfect circles, would a genuine item be better in this area?

I wouldn't think that gasket separation is important seeing as the vital parts of the gasket have metal surrounds.. The oil gallery, the combustion chambers.. You could re-use it if the metal parts are OK.

 

However with Nissans I always found the factory head gasket to be far better made than the Repco stuff. I haven't had to use a Toyota one yet.

 

The big question is, did it turn over with the head on and the rocker gear removed?? That will divide the problem between cam and head gasket.

 

..and I don't know why the rocker bolts are chamfered, the oil to the rocker shaft goes up the special hole in number two tower. I suppose you figured that out.

4age pistons are 5.something mm lower than K pistons so that block must have seen some serious decking unless you

got some special rods. Thats probably what is causing the rocker issues.

 

You might know about it but havent seen it mentioned in the thread.

 

Are the bores of the gasket larger than the cylinder bores?

 

Id change the gasket for a original one just for piece of mind

I don't know.... To me it looks like the distance between the bores is narrower on the bottom end than that of the head gasket.

 

I kinda think the pistons are hitting the firing ring of the headgasket from what I can make out from the pics.

 

Do you have a vernier caliper? I'd be measuring the distance between the bores of the block, and comparing to that of the headgasket.