Tham Posted February 7, 2010 Report Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) My 4K's oil sump gasket is leaking moderately. It's been leaking for years, mostly at the rear, but now seems to have gone a bit worse. I can see the left gasket corner and sides of the sump wet with oil, The steering shaft area and the bottom rear towards the gearbox and clutch cable area are aslo oily, mostly from the fan blowing oil droplets rearwards, I guess. The mechanic quoted me M$120 labour charges alone for a gastket replacement, I was wondering if dropping a bottle of one of those "engine oil stop leak" additives, such as this, might help ,or at least be a stop gap measure ? http://www.abro.com/abro_product_view.php?...id=57&grp=0 I'm afraid that the sealing compound might get into the wrong nooks and crannies and plug them up, or clog up the oil filter and strainer, such as might happen with a radiator stop-leak product clogging up water channels. Are these products compatitible with standard viscosity improver additives, such as this ? http://www.abro.com/abro_product_view.php?...d=260&grp=0 Thanks very much. Edited February 11, 2010 by Taz_Rx Quote
corollaart Posted February 7, 2010 Report Posted February 7, 2010 Hi look in my opinion oil leaks don't get better only worse over time . As far as additives go most are only short term fix ,some are just shit waste of money. If its a old car your trying to get through rego ,id say give it ago. If your going to keep it fix it properly,sump rear main etc. IMHO i wouldnt use them at all but thats me. If oil was suppose to have additives in it, the oil manufactures would have put it in. rob Quote
Taz_Rx Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Get yourself an engine crane (can hire them from plant hire places) and a sump gasket. Invite a mate around and get yourself a carton of brews. 3-4 hours work and you're done. :) Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Get yourself an engine crane (can hire them from plant hire places) and a sump gasket. Invite a mate around and get yourself a carton of brews. 3-4 hours work and you're done. :) don't even have to lift the engine out of bay i don't think, just undo engine mounts, lift it up enough to get clearence. lower sump down, clean both surfaces, slide new gasket in and bolt on, drop engine back in :blush: But yeah, do it properly, and it should last another few years atleast :) Quote
philbey Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Yeh, if you get a jack under the motor, you can jack it enough with the mounts unbolted to get the sump out. I've done it a couple of times. And it's still leaking. be very careful about tightening the sump gasket up too much, it doesn't need much. I got some of the Permatex paint on gasket goo which I'm intent on using instead of silicone sealant which didn't work last time. Quote
toyota_ae71 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Got mine out without even jacking the engine up. As said be careful to not do the bolts up too tight and use plenty off gasket glue. K series have the worst sump design. A pit was also a great help. Cheers Quote
rob83ke70 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 two types of stop leak additive for engine oil, one makes the oil thicker, which could possibly cause problems with it blocking passages.... it usually is marketed as "stop smoke". The other type is an additive which softens the rubber in "hard" seals - ie low km but very old. if the seal is worn out, it obviously won't fix the problem. This type of additive will not do anything bad to your engine. I have never been overly successful in getting sumps to seal perfectly on a k motor, although practice makes perfect. Robert. Quote
Evan G Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Ive replace my sump gasket twice on my 4k (in the car) the first time it pushed the gasket out the side because of over tightening 2nd time i did EVERY to spec every torque the sump bolts and its still leaking i reckon just get a tube of threebond or permatex gasket maker and make your own gasket, i wasn't really happy how the acl gasket was quiet bigger than the actual sump and how the rear tabs were squashed in the packaging I'm making my own gasket next time, bloody 4k's also my brother seized his engine cause he used that "tappet quieter" in his EB Quote
SLO-030 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Make a Sump gasket for a 4k out of gasket maker and report back with your findings. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted February 8, 2010 Report Posted February 8, 2010 Make a Sump gasket for a 4k out of gasket maker and report back with your findings. :) Yes please do...... with pics too! Quote
irokin Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 :) Yes please do...... with pics too! SR20 sumps don't have gaskets, they're just sealed with a liquid gasket from factory. Mines currently got permatex blue goo if I remember correctly. Nissan recommends a non setting gasket but the aftermarket equivalent just doesn't work. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 ....Yeah but does an SR20 sump need to seal around the bottom of the timing cover and rear main area? :) Quote
philbey Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 HAHAHA, yep. good luck evan. CA18's were the same, no gasket, and notorious for leaking, especially around the back of the block. There was only 1 aftermarket goo that the Nissan boffins would go near other than the factory goo. Quote
maxyboy55 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 when you take your sump off make sure that the sealing surface is completely flat, mine wasn't and i bet alot of other peoples aren't to. that's one reason why when you replace them they leak again. max Quote
Evan G Posted February 9, 2010 Report Posted February 9, 2010 if i fail again in my next sump gasket, I'm brazing the sump to the block! :) Quote
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