Ke17 Sleeper Project

[jimi91]

Ok been looking at other threads about front end upgrades for a ke1X!!!! There are two builds which are using a ke20 cross member with adjustable lower control arms, Jono.C and Jordain have both looked and are doing this but it got me thinking how did they do it back in the old days without all these parts????

 

So ive been looking at the cross member that we have and there simple as it has a leaf that runs across from each side of the lower control arms then the stuts have a spring but not a heavy ones!!! The idea is for the leaf to do the up and down movement as well as the front and forward movement. The problem with this is when the leaf gets up to speed it starts to move and push the wheels forward !!! So i asked my dad and his mate who rallied a ke10 back in the days and they went through all this stuff years ago !! They said that if u either put a stabilizer bar etc....

 

So in theory to make a ke1X handle that is cheap and is easy is to put a stabilizer bar on and change the leaf and springs so there are a bit heavy but not to heavy....

 

Let me know what u think guys i might try this way and see how it works ??

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[Jono.C]

The reason i'm swapping to ke20 front end is the ke10 one won't be able to be setup how i want it.

 

You can't swap different struts in easy so you don't have a big choice of shocks..

 

Also you have the funky A arm things instead of Lca's

 

 

So with this i'll be able to build the front how i want it

 

Far from bolt in unfortunately :/

 

 

Also if you use ke20 springs on the ke10 struts she'll be a fair bit stiffer.

 

That funky leaf spring takes like 50% of the weight or something like that so you can't take it out unless you get heavier springs

 

A lot of people put ke20 springs in and then remove the leaf and put in a whiteline sway bar

 

 

So there's another option if you get stuck.

Edited March 20, 2011 by Jono.C

[jimi91]

The reason i'm swapping to ke20 front end is the ke10 one won't be able to be setup how i want it.

 

You can't swap different struts in easy so you don't have a big choice of shocks..

 

Also you have the funky A arm things instead of Lca's

 

 

So with this i'll be able to build the front how i want it

 

Far from bolt in unfortunately :/

 

 

Also if you use ke20 springs on the ke10 struts she'll be a fair bit stiffer.

 

That funky leaf spring takes like 50% of the weight or something like that so you can't take it out unless you get heavier springs

 

A lot of people put ke20 springs in and then remove the leaf and put in a whiteline sway bar

 

 

So there's another option if you get stuck.

 

 

 

 

hmmmmm :hmm: yeah true that but wouldnt the ke20 springs be to hard????

 

Ive also been told if i use a ke20 ball joint and a ke10 control arm the ball joint pops out :blinks: so u have to weld it in lol :lolcry:

 

yeah maybe i could go that way ??? idk lol ill see what happens when i start on it :glare:

 

Thanks tho mate :happy:

 

see ya

 

jimi

[Jono.C]

Ke20 springs aren't hard. But aren't soft. But they're stiffer in a ke10 because the ke10 is lighter.

 

Same idea behind falcon springs in a ke70..

 

 

But here's a photo for reference..

 

 

Ke20 in the middle and ke10 far right

 

As you can see by the thickness of the steel and how they're wound the ke20 springs would be a fair amount stiffer

[jimi91]

Hmmmm yeah true but my dad and his mate said that it pushes the ball joints out thats why u don't put ke20 in!!!!! So maybe i should just stick with what i got and modify that??

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[Doogs]

If you are handy with a welder here are some good options;

 

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=794

 

http://www.otomoto.com.au/HDSystems/sleevekits.htm

[Jono.C]

Those otomoto sleeve kit's is what i'll be using on the front on S2 t18 struts.

 

The difference between them and hsd/ ajps ones is that for the same price the otomoto kit comes with springs

[jimi91]

hmmmm yeah i could do that but i need a welder lol :bash:

 

It would look sweet with them on it :wink: :happy:

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[Des]

Buy the kit, Measure it all up and take to it a boiler maker or someone that has exceptional welding skills and pay them to weld it. Would take no more than 1 hour.

[jimi91]

Hmmmm yeah ill see how i go i might do it but not sure about it ???

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[kickn5k]

Hmmmm yeah true but my dad and his mate said that it pushes the ball joints out thats why u don't put ke20 in!!!!! So maybe i should just stick with what i got and modify that??

 

everyone says this but I've got em in mine. Two tack welds and it and six years later alls good. 20 complete struts stuff up geometry and gives more positive camber.

I'm changing mine to 10 strut bottom, Peders ke20 superlow spring, ke20 top spring plate and strut top with Peders ke20 insert with spacer. I allready have a 22mm sway bar. I'm still unsure if I'll mod the 10 steering arm to suit the larger balljoint shaft.

 

Stu.

[jimi91]

everyone says this but I've got em in mine. Two tack welds and it and six years later alls good. 20 complete struts stuff up geometry and gives more positive camber.

I'm changing mine to 10 strut bottom, Peders ke20 superlow spring, ke20 top spring plate and strut top with Peders ke20 insert with spacer. I allready have a 22mm sway bar. I'm still unsure if I'll mod the 10 steering arm to suit the larger balljoint shaft.

 

Stu.

 

 

:laff: That sounds good as yeah i was thinking of putting like a plate that goes under and welds to the arms ???? Maybe that will hold it in lol

 

yeah it would be nice to hear and see if that works ???? Plz update if it goes ok after the mods :wink:

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[jimi91]

UPDATE..........

 

Ok guys i was lucky enough to save up enough money and buy myself a welder

 

 

Its not a bad rig and will do me the job of all the welding thats ahead on this old girl :blinks:

 

My first project will be to fix most of the rust in my daily (link below) and make it all nice and neat for my sis when she gets the 70 :dance:

 

Sorry its not an update on the 17 but ill try my best to get on to her soon :lolcry:

 

see ya

 

jimi

[jimi91]

Update......

 

Ok guys ive had a think and talk to dad and i have figured out how i want to build the front end :dance: I will use the standard ke1X crossmember, will make some custom lca's :wink: no details for ur eyes its a secret :lolcry: but will prob go full adjustable shocks and that and a few other secrets and it will be one sweet ride with some awesome handeling :cool:

 

 

Rear end I'm still not sure but i will figure it out, will def be putting a lsd in her but not sure what type of diff it will be in :hmm:

 

 

After a talk to my traddy school teacher who has delt and set up these systems i figured out how the MegaSquirt will work and how easy it will be to set up and tune :dance: He told me the toothed wheel u need so it knows where tdc is u just use the 2 bolts that u use to pull the crank of to hold the wheel on the crank. Then u install a sensor to tell the computer what the crank is doing, then wire up ur coil packs and hey presto u have ur timing done and that it !!! He told me it will take 2 turns of the crank to tell the computer and that and it will start :dance: The tuning is pretty easy he said u just need a laptop and basics of how to use it but i could do it at home which is a major win for me :happy:

 

 

I'm itching to do some proper work on her but don't have shed space atm :bash: oh well ill save up and buy all my parts :P

 

 

 

see ya

 

jimi

[parrot]

I have bought myself two TE27 diff housings of Yahoo. One will go in the TE27 I will be building up, the other I am thinking I may eventually put into my KE15 with a T series LSD!

 

And no one will ever know....he he......woops

Edited June 7, 2011 by parrot