Just a little update of what I have been up to.

 

Now I know that that this will not achieve anything, but I am doing it because I can and in the mean time I am saving funds for the motor build.

 

First I gave the casting a bit of a clean up with the die grinder.

 

 

 

 

Then I used some different size diameters and grit grade of flappy wheels with an extended shaft length so I could reach deep into the block.

 

 

 

 

This was used to clean up the cast marks even more.

 

 

 

 

Next it was out with the wet and dry to make it all smooth. (will have to find a picture)

 

 

All up with an hour here and there it would have been about 16 hours.

Another update.

 

I am a slack when it comes to posting.

 

I have been polishing my crank for over 6 months :P and I finally finished in September.

 

You know the deal, you start of with the rough stuff and work your way down to the smooth stuff.

 

And again I know this will not amount to anything, but I have just because I can.

 

Anyway hare are some pictures.

 

Things I have used

 

5 and 7 inch flappy wheels (that went onto a 9 inch grinder) and various sizes of small flappy wheels for a drill and some small die grinder sanding drums.

 

 

 

 

This is the crank I started with

 

 

 

 

Next I raped some tape around the journals and then taped on some old bearings (I did not want to nick the main or conrod bearing surface on the crank).

 

Some early progression (at this stage I was thinking what have I got myself into)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As time progressed it was looking a little better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Semi finished

 

 

 

 

Comparing the cranks (polished to rough cast)

 

 

 

 

Polishing is finished

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was done over 6 months or so, with an hour here and an hour there, I was in no hurry.

 

You may ask why and my answer is “because I can”.

 

 

A few weeks back I received some goodies while the Aussie Dollar is going good.

 

Conrods to suit

 

Pistons

 

Flywheel (a little bit lighter)

 

ARP stud kit

 

Now all of the above, block and crank with the goodies have been sent off to Sydney for a little bit of machining.

 

 

The block, crank and goodies are undergoing;

 

Deck block

Line hoan mains

Torque plate bore

Linish crank

Balancing all the rotating mass

 

I hope to have all of this back before Christmas

i ask then if you've gone to the trouble of polishing the crank then why not get it knife edged as well?

i was also thinking why you didnt knife edge it?

 

any real benifits of polishing it all?

 

you gonna install a clear window section on the sump :P :lol:

the polishing will promote smooth oil flow.. better for building up revs but this is mainly on full race engines.

don't forget to balance it again.

i ask then if you've gone to the trouble of polishing the crank then why not get it knife edged as well?

 

Are you serious!

 

Its one thing to polish the crank counter weights in the back yard, but to “knife edge” a crank come on!

 

 

Sure I could set it up in a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe (or the CNC) but there are many factors that have to be considered

 

1. Have an even radius on all of the rotating counter weights

2. Or to even to attempt to put a leading knife edge on the rotating counter weight

 

Its not just get a grinder out and put an edge on a crank.

 

Not to mention there are other factors like static and the dynamic balance.

 

I hope that anyone who reads this understands that you DO NOT take to a crank and put a knife edge on a crank in the back yard and think you will have some extra benefit.

 

All I have done is just removed the rough casting and polished it (to help with the removal of the parasite oil that hangs to the rotating crank.

 

Sorry mate, nothing against you, BUT I DO NOT want anyone to ruin a good crank by trying to put a knife edge on a crank.

you gonna install a clear window section on the sump :P :lol:

 

 

Hey I would love to have a clear window sump to show of what I have done, but at the end of the day like I said “I did it because I can”

the polishing will promote smooth oil flow.. better for building up revs but this is mainly on full race engines.

 

Well stay tuned !

don't forget to balance it again.

 

Trust me, everything that rotates between the crankshaft pulley (conrods and pistons) to the flywheel is being balanced

i didn't mean you do it... i meant get your machinist to do it... it wasn't on your to do list.

i didn't mean you do it... i meant get your machinist to do it... it wasn't on your to do list.

 

 

Yeah your right, it’s not on my “to do list” as I am not interested in knife edging this crank and I polished it “because I can” in the back yard.

 

 

Ok

 

Let’s just say I did want to “knife edge” the crank then there would have been a different process;

 

1. Firstly I would have sent the crank south to be “knife edged” then it would have to be balanced and then sent back (so freight down and back up).

 

 

2. Then I would have to remove the rough casting on the remanding parts of the counter weights by sanded them out to a polished finish that I want (I am a fussy bastard when it comes to my engine standards).

 

 

3. Then I would have to pay a second lot of freight (down then back) to balance all the rotating mass.

 

(Now a machining shop might polish a crank to this standard and if they did I could not afford the labour time for them to polish it, I spent over 200 hours or more. So lets say a machine shop was to charge $88 per hour and lets say it would take 100hours to polish the remanding rough casting off the counter weight, it would cost $ 8 800 ).

 

As I said I polished it “because I can” and I am not interested in knife edging it.

FNQ,

mate your car looks awesome!!

I love the Weld Pro Stars.

keep those pics coming!

 

Mark

Well all I can say is a lot has NOT been happening with my KE35, as it has been my daily for the last 3 months, but during this time I have been acquiring some more bits and pieces.

 

I am looking at putting some aftermarket gauges into a modified dash panel similar to what Greenmac80 has done.

Picture taken from Greenmac80’s thread

 

I’ve been thinking about getting an Autometer speedometer electronic programmable gauge.

 

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3137&sid=-1

 

Now my question is has anyone set up one of these onto a “W” series gearbox and do the “W” series gearbox have the an option of having a factory installed sine wave 2 wire sender on their speedo output. There is an option of buying a “Hall-effect sender that will make this speedo work but I would like to keep most things Toyota if possible.

WoW,

 

Car of the year

 

I did not even realise that I was nominated for “Car of the year” ….. Thank you "Undertaker_is_the_best", but in my opinion it is not up to that standard.

 

I might have it finished by the end of this year.