Taz_Rx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Hey buddy, too long! Good to hear it'll be back on the road soon. Funny you should quote that post from ages ago, this guy needs to read it! He wouldn't have even got as far as a/r's yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrolla68 Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Hey buddy, too long! Good to hear it'll be back on the road soon. Funny you should quote that post from ages ago, this guy needs to read it! He wouldn't have even got as far as a/r's yet. Ive been watching in Dismay mate and I'm sure you and Darren have as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) Lift pump? Mechanical pump is acting as the lift pump. Already tested and it works great, takes a 2-3 seconds after ignition cut to stop though (Before the oil pressure drops sufficiently) Is it safe having the fuel pump sitting in the engine bay??? Wouldn't want it to spring a leak mid drive! Did consider it, but a realistically a leak anywhere isn't good. If its in the boot you will have a nice mixture of air and fuel in the rear of your car :P Its one of the reasons I Rubber mounted it in a horizontal position, on that side of the engine (away from the exhaust) The other being that is was close to the 'lift' pump. Ive been watching in Dismay mate and I'm sure you and Darren have as well. Guys Simple solution, go troll somebody else's build ;) In the immortal words of Eric Cartman "Get the fudge out" Do what you want with your own cars, but I'm doing this for the experience not for performance that's just a bonus :) Alrightyy then? Take care now, bye bye then :) Edited July 25, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) Mechanical pump is acting as the lift pump. Already tested and it works great, takes a 2-3 seconds after ignition cut to stop though (Before the oil pressure drops sufficiently) Did consider it, but a realistically a leak anywhere isn't good. If its in the boot you will have a nice mixture of air and fuel in the rear of your car :P Its one of the reasons I Rubber mounted it in a horizontal position, on that side of the engine (away from the exhaust) The other being that is was close to the 'lift' pump. Guys Simple solution, go troll somebody else's build ;) In the immortal words of Eric Cartman "Get the fudge out" Do what you want with your own cars, but I'm doing this for the experience not for performance that's just a bonus :) Alrightyy then? Take care now, bye bye then :) i would be scared of like the coil arcing out on the pump maybe dunno might never happen but possible Edited July 25, 2011 by mitch-12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) i would be scared of like the coil arcing out on the pump maybe dunno might never happen but possible There is no logical reason why it would, electricity always follows the path of least resistance. Ill replace the HT wire to the dizzy just to make sure. It looks MUCH closer to the pump body than it is in reality.. But ill get a shorter lead and keep it clear :) Thanks though :) Edit: Just looked back at the pics, the HT wire is much more out of the way now than when I took thoese. But ill replace anywho :) Edited July 25, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Oh... This is a build thread is it? Given you started it in general mechanical I just assumed you were actually open to help from people that have done this all before! My bad, I'll move the thread to the rides section in the morning. Cheers, Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) Oh... This is a build thread is it? Given you started it in general mechanical I just assumed you were actually open to help from people that have done this all before! My bad, I'll move the thread to the rides section in the morning. Cheers, Si. " I AM SO SMART! I AM SO SMART! SMRT.. I MEAN SMART" You couldn't deduce that from the numerous amount of photos and details of different theoretical plans :P Jokes :P You'v done it before, fantastic for you (No honestly, kudos on the effort) :) :y: But I am not after the same thing you were, is it any wonder why I'm doing things differently? I'm doing this as a muck around, for what 'was' a bit of fun, something to do on the weekend. :) I made my own manifold, manifold head plate, turbo adapter, downpipe, coolant lines etc partially because of original plan, but more so because I wanted to see what I was capable of. I believe I have shown that the turbo will be large enough for what I want out of this engine. Maybe, just maybe, I decided to use a CT9 because I wanted that upper limit as a indicator to move on to greater things. I didn't want to get drawn into head spacing, pistons, rods, cam etc. In my mind its a waste on a motor like that, but each to their own. Bit of a project, and a little bit of fun, that's all.. Is that too much to ask? :) Edited July 25, 2011 by Jaydnisevil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 (edited) Excuse the long delay, I'm saving up for a holiday at the moment so the cars on the back burner again :P Only a few things to add really.. I have removed the turbo so I can weld up the internal gate correctly (No bodgey brackets) Cannot recall if I had said I extended the exhaust a tad (it was running a few weeks ago and was rather loud, didn't want to annoy the neighbours too much) Not like it does much anywho :P Ohh and I came up with a solution for a turbo hat :) Used a LPG hat that actually were used on these webers, ill have to find a way to cut off and attach my pipe to that rectangular inlet but there will be a way :) Iv also cut the manifold down and having it re-welded shortly (Who knows how long my step dad will take, busy at work) as you can see in the above it sits about 70mm lower. Anywho I had to make a new base plate as I had no way of fixing the one that came with it down. No biggy but just a hassle Also riveted a bracket on to hold the hat down :) Ohh and I got the adapter for the turbo outlet, but I'm not really happy how it looks :/ Granted the pipes were free and half painted, maybe itl look a bit nicer all black and the hose clamps are cut shorter Ill also need to make a new tank vent as I have used the vent line as a secondary fuel return to ensure low line back pressure. That or get a vented cap. Remaining: Wategate welded shut (More reliable) Tank vent of sorts Pressure reg vacuum supply Tee into existing line Manifold welded (Again :P) Throttle cables Exhaust bracket to support extra weight. joiner from IC outlet to carby hat (Basic maths says ill need a 3.75" - 2.5" reducer, the rectangle has an area around the same size as a 3.75" circle) Thats all that really comes to mind Edited August 31, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Required: Wategate welded shut (More reliable) Done Tank vent of sorts (searching for vented cap) Pressure reg vacuum supply Tee into existing line Done Manifold welded (Again ) Doneish, warped during heating and am re-aligning. Throttle cables (can't do until manifold is 100%) Exhaust bracket to support extra weight. joiner from IC outlet to carby hat (Basic maths says ill need a 3.75" - 2.5" reducer, the rectangle has an area around the same size as a 3.75" circle) Done Updates: S14 Coil-overs purchased, ordering S13 feet S13 LCA's, hubs and brakes etc to be acquired shortly, mate of mine is converting to 5stud on this 180sx. Looking to buy a corolla with a 4AGE already turbocharged for next to nothing... tempting Installed: Stiffer rear springs Mercedes Benz 211 rear shockers (Need to cut the bump-stops more) Questions: Can I somehow install the rear coilovers as well? and is it worth it given that the coils are 2stud and the shocker is 1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbott Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 keen to see how this goes mate. be interesting to see the results compared to Si's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Cheers, keen to have it running myself. OK.. that car/motor I was looking at..turns out its a 3T-GTE. Don't know much about them, but from what iv read so far they are pretty durable. Considering buying it, the only things that are troubling is it doesn't run.. Now the guys a qualified tech, and said he has apparently narrowed it down to the fuel pump. But because the body is in shit shape, he hasn't bothered to fix it. The only other issue with it is the harness wiring is a bit funky, doesn't really concern me as I quite enjoy repairing wiring. Ill have to do some research and see if I can pull up some wiring diagrams.. see if it wont be too much of a venture. But for what he is asking, its a too good to refuse. I'm thinking of buying it, keeping the motor, loom, ecu, cluster, gearbox and diff.. Am I forgetting any important parts? Then ill just call up a wrecker or a scrap metal collector to come get it. Can anybody recommend any companies? Preferably ones that have some kind of lift, as he wants the wheels back after I get it to my place. Otherwise they will have to drag it onto the truck, rather not rip up my backyard. I wont tell you how much he wants for the car, you would all be screaming at me to go over and get it now :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ro11in#22 Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 hey mate would ya be intrested in solid copper head gasket for your turbo k motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 hey mate would ya be intrested in solid copper head gasket for your turbo k motor Maybe.. Didn't really want to go down that path. Especially if I buy this other motor. How much will compression drop by? (Ie what is the new safe boost level) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer[RL] Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Your block will need to be o-ringed. Can anyone confirm what happens if you don't have the block o-ringed and run a copper gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ro11in#22 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 unsure of how much they can handle but they have been used in lots of high proformance applications na and turbo, i used one in my turbo 4k it held up fine all i sprayed on it was hylomar the engine was sold as far as i know it still has the copper head gaskit in it and the person that owns it now would rape it every day of the week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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