KE20rollabus Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 Okay since I searched and found no info for people how to wire up a 5k electronic distributor I thought id make a topic to tell users. This is on my ke20 corolla so some things may be slightly different between models The 5k distributor is a pulse generating type with in built ignitor (ignition module). There is a two pin toyota connector with a black wire (negative) and a black with orange tracer (posative). Remove your old points distribtor, the 4mm black wire going to the distributor points is connected to the black wire on the two pin plug (this is negative switching for your coil). Connect the black with orange tracer to the posative side of your coil. note if you have a ballist resistor on your coil you will need to change it to a 12v non resistor coil (I used a Gt40 coil), so disconnect the wire from the loom at the bottom of your ballast resistor and go straight to the + of your coil. Quote
Evan G Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 42 degrees mines set to 42 degrees and can't back the timing down past 15degrees (maxes out on the clamp of the dissy) Quote
KE20rollabus Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Posted July 8, 2010 i reckon your timing is one tooth out Quote
Evan G Posted July 8, 2010 Report Posted July 8, 2010 i reckon your timing is one tooth out this isnt possible, cylinder 1 was on TDC and rotor button was on 1 firing. i think i can give it more dwell therefore i could possibly throw off the timing. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted July 9, 2010 Report Posted July 9, 2010 If you can't knock the timing down enough E then you need to take it back a tooth. Quote
KE20rollabus Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Posted July 9, 2010 No. your timing is one tooth out. do you lnow what 'dwell' is? Its the time in distributor degrees that the points are closed to sturate the coil. Quote
Tally Posted July 10, 2010 Report Posted July 10, 2010 Thanks for the info KE20rollabus! Heres some pics that may help. Could you please point out exactly what you have described from these pics... Quote
philbey Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 note if you have a ballist resistor on your coil you will need to change it to a 12v non resistor coil (I used a Gt40 coil), so disconnect the wire from the loom at the bottom of your ballast resistor and go straight to the + of your coil. Dig Dig Digging. This is a good thread, I'm about to change coils on my 5K. I have the same internal ignitor 5K dizzy, and I've bought a GT40 coil (resin filled type) for the car. BUT! The bosch catalogue shows that I needed a GT40R which requires a resistor, and that's what I've bought. I don't currently have a ballast resistor. This has me confused, I now have 2 options: buy a ballast resistor and fit it to this coil, or get the Non-resistor coil and just run that (preffered option). Is there any particular preference either way? Med Man? And adding to that, these GT40 coils have "for Points ignition only" written all over them, but this is the exact unit Bosch recommend.... WTF? Quote
kangaroosa Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 Dig Dig Digging. This is a good thread, I'm about to change coils on my 5K. I have the same internal ignitor 5K dizzy, and I've bought a GT40 coil (resin filled type) for the car. BUT! The bosch catalogue shows that I needed a GT40R which requires a resistor, and that's what I've bought. I don't currently have a ballast resistor. This has me confused, I now have 2 options: buy a ballast resistor and fit it to this coil, or get the Non-resistor coil and just run that (preffered option). Is there any particular preference either way? Med Man? And adding to that, these GT40 coils have "for Points ignition only" written all over them, but this is the exact unit Bosch recommend.... WTF? On my old 5K, I just ran a 'scorcher' coil suited for electronic ignitions that i puchased from Performance Ignition Services from memory. It didnt have a bolt on resistor. Was just a basic black cylindrical coil and i never had any ignition issues. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 Yeah you need the GT40 (no R) Tom. I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a points coil with an electronic dizzy. :hmm: Both just ground the coil to fire it. Quote
philbey Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 Yeh that's what I was erring towards anyway, I've since discovered that the KE1x never ran a ballast resistor, so the coil I'm running is the stock one. It's been fine with my elec dizzy. It would appear that the KM36 liteace had one hence the confusion with the Bosch catalogue. Any advantage to fitting a ballast resistor? Easier starting etc? Are these GT40's alright or not, it would appear people have trouble with them failing, I suspect due to using the wrong unit without resistors etc? And finally, any major difference to the Can style GT40 and the resin filled style? I might get the can one now that I'm returning this one. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted October 13, 2010 Report Posted October 13, 2010 Any advantage to fitting a ballast resistor? Easier starting etc? BR's just drop the "on" power to 6-8v. I think it might have something to do with burning out points quicker at 12v. The starting advantage comes from the 12v direct "start" power, which is only for a few seconds. Are these GT40's alright or not, it would appear people have trouble with them failing, I suspect due to using the wrong unit without resistors etc? Yeah mate, they're bosch and would have to be one of the most commonly used coils around. The failure would be due to people using a GT40 WITH a BR, or a GT40R WITHOUT a BR. And finally, any major difference to the Can style GT40 and the resin filled style? I might get the can one now that I'm returning this one. Not much that I'm aware of. Maybe you can take note of some specs of each, output voltage etc. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.