GJM85 Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Posted August 31, 2011 (edited) Very nice. But all looks pricey, wouldn't that money be better spent on getting the twins fixed? Just thought I'd throw that up to confuse you mate.lol Stu. Damn YOU Stu! It possibly would be but it's done and paid for. Heavily discounted through Recarb. :wink: The twins would take a lot longer and i've currently go no transport. I can't even find a shop around here that deals with Solex carbs. The last bloke I took them to held them for 6 weeks, charged me $170 and barely touched them. After taking that sidedraft manifold off a few times, you kinda realise how inconvenient it is for maintenance. I've done a shitload of research on this carb and some say its camparable to a dcoe. It should provide more HP and maximum torque off the mark over the 32/36. The sacrfice is economy. Edited August 31, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
kickn5k Posted August 31, 2011 Report Posted August 31, 2011 I thought they were webers sorry. Later down the track when your bored and are keen to play with em jump www.wolfcreekracing.com. They are mikuni distributors and the only Place I could get rebuild kits for the 40's we took off dads datto. But the new one should be perfect for you. If it's tuned right you should still get reasonable economy out of it. Stu. Quote
GJM85 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) The twenny runs better than it ever has before. Revs out to 4 grand with a tweek of the throttle. All I did was bolt it on, hook up the vac-adv hose and fuel line, turned the idle speed half a turn in from contact and turned the mixture screws half a turn out from bottom. I'd say it's pretty close to where it needs to be but not right yet. I need to rig up a linkage for the cable and retro fit my hi-cam air cleaner. I think the main jets are a little over size still. I'll get a jet kit this Thursday. :cool: Edited September 6, 2011 by GJM85 1 Quote
kickn5k Posted September 6, 2011 Report Posted September 6, 2011 Looking good mate!!! Good to see your making progress on the tune. Stu. Quote
GJM85 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) Getting closer to the tuning of the 38 Outlaw. Smaller mains still required. No one round here stocks weber parts so I've been redirected to Adaptatune. Same place where they did my Solex's. Or so they say they did. The 38'syncronous thottle bodies are very sensitive at the pedal. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VtkMp07GC8 Edited September 9, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
GJM85 Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Posted September 16, 2011 (edited) Just a storage update so I remember what this thing is made of. Engine: Toyota 5k 1486cc with 0.020" overbore (1566cc) ACL bearing and gasket kit 4k sump Shimmed oil pump 4k crankshaft with Nachi spigot 5k conrods Nason 0.50mm oversize pistons (shallow dish) Tighe 104 camshaft (25/65 int/ex, 270 adv dur, 0.423" valve lift, solid grind) Holded 202 anti-pump lifters Datsun A12 light weight solid pushrods 4k adjustable rocker gear Pro- Torque twin timing kit 4k-c head with port and polish 4k valves with 3 face reseat 5k valve springs 3k bigport manifold (carb flange machine to suit adapter plate) Redline adapter plate Weber 38/38 Sports Redline 9in air cleaner Standard fuel system with 3/8" fuel lines Hurricane 4-1 shorty extractors (wrapped) 2" mandrel exaust with two glass pack mufflers (Lukey front & Super Cat back) 10 cell Super Charge battery 4k alternator and starter Aftermarket alternator regulator MSD Streetfire CD Igntion control GT40 coil 3k breaker points adjustable distributor Bosch Super Plus cold plugs Racer water pump & thermostat housing, plastic fan & 3k radiator KE20 driver side & KE30 passenger side engine mounts Drivetrain: Refaced 4k flywheel Exedy HD Sports Tuff clutch KE70 5 speed box Shortened KE55 sedan tailshaft KE55 Borg Warner diff (4:11) with KE20 spring mounts Suspension/Brakes/Steering: Nolathane bushes- control arms, sway bar Three Five tie rods ends, pitman arm and idler arm Shortened KE20 struts Recoiled 55mm King Springs Boges VW Golf mkII short stroke inserts and bumb stops KE70 backing plates, machined rotors, Girlock calipers, Bendix pads KE55 leaf springs an Boges KE55 rear shock absorbers 50mm lowering blocks KE55 229mm rear drums with Bendix shoes KE20 brake master cylinder and KE20 handbrake cables Rolling stock/Body: 13x5.5 Cheviot mesh Yokohama 175/70 Blue star saffire paint by MSR Kustoms Seal kit by Phils Rotories KE25 grill Original glass Stereo: JVC 50x4 mosfet head unit JVC 290 watt 6x9's Interior is stock also... :yes: Do you think I need a modplate? Edited October 10, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
GJM85 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Posted October 10, 2011 Booked in at Southside Dyno for tomorrow! Super long time coming! I'll post a dyno sheet and carb jetting when it comes home... Quote
kickn5k Posted October 10, 2011 Report Posted October 10, 2011 Booked in at Southside Dyno for tomorrow! Super long time coming! I'll post a dyno sheet and carb jetting when it comes home... :dance: yeah man it's going to be worth the wait for sure!!!! Quote
Chillin Posted October 10, 2011 Report Posted October 10, 2011 yeah Gav top work, very keen to see this on the road! Quote
GJM85 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Posted November 1, 2011 (edited) Well it's been 3 weeks and I picked the 20 up today. Drove it home with a permit to move from the RTA. After being told it's idling a lot better, the carb has been tuned and the dizzy and timing all redone, I paid up and hit the road. I took it real easy on the gas and didn't give it any boot till about half way home and HOLY SHIT! The car runs worse than before. The timing was set to 5 degrees and the little plastic cap of the dizzy was gone. Inspecting the carb, no jets have been changed at all. The engine bay is completely covered in water marks, like the bonnet was left open in the rain. There was some type of hydraulic oil spilt on the back window and boot. There is overspray of some sort all around the car, like someone has degreased a gear box right next to it. 3 weeks. $224 for timing, carb tuning and AFR reading(for which I got no results). I paid $10 for carby cleaner, which they used on a brand new carby, and I paid $50 for them to run it on the dyno. The gave me the results of that! 44.2rwhp and a max speed of 127k/ph. I am so pissed off.... the whole automotive industry is a f@$king shamozzel! I'm going to shit on their name all over cyberland! Southside Dyno :n: :n: :n: Also my gearbox is f@$ked. Discovered it whines its head off in 5th gear, and rattles on deceleration. Under acceleration seems fine. Some people are just so head f@$ked they'll smile and look you in the eye when they sell you a gearbox they know it f@$ked. I've still got the original 4 speed but i'm not sure if it'll work with a shortened 55 tailshaft. If you know of a good 5 speed, hit me up. Edited November 1, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
Crowie55 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Posted November 1, 2011 Holy s%$& dude go back to the shop and demand an explanation if your not happy with it. 3 weeks is bullshit! and the over spray/watermarks/oil mark is just unprofessional and slack to say the least. 44rwhp and top speed of 127km/hr for a 5k? Don't let them shit on you go back tomorrow. Quote
Crowie55 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Posted November 1, 2011 As for the gearbox the 4 speed will bolt up fine Quote
ninja-philbo Posted November 1, 2011 Report Posted November 1, 2011 got a toyoglide here u can have haha dude thats bullshit go back don't take that shit Quote
JJT036 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Posted November 1, 2011 That's pathetic. I'd go back and sort 'em out with a hammer. :yes: Josh :cool: Quote
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