You can read the link below, it was helpful when I need to wire my dad's car new alternator

 

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113139/article.html

You can read the link below, it was helpful when I need to wire my dad's car new alternator

 

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_113139/article.html

 

Cheers mate, that was real help getting the wiring sorted.

So I spent last night and today rewiring the loom and fitting the Denso alternator. I used starter cable as the charge wire from 'B' pole & linked it to the starter motor. I ran some 15 amp wire from the battery for 'E' pole, I used the red/white tracer from the original loom as the ignition source for 'N' pole & I used the yellow/white tracer from the loom for the charge light 'L' pole.

 

Well it all seemed good at the battery getting 14.2v at idle but the charge light stayed on.

 

So I checked the wiring again, checked the wiring diagram and checked everything else again.

Second go. This time no charge light with ignition on, engine not running. I fired it up, 14.2v all good, I gave it a rev, 17v and not dropping. ʞ©$ɟ. Alternator is throwing sparks.... Shut her down.

I'm guessing that the voltage regulator is fooked and is allowing current to earth into the body because that bitch got hot.

 

It took me an hour to rewire the old loom over the top of the new bit and refit the old external reg alternator. 13.9v at idle, 11.9v with everything on. But only a 0.12 voltage drop in the charge circuit because of the big charge cable.

 

So now i need to find another internal regulated alternator......

Edited April 18, 201511 yr by GJM85

Externally reg ones are the devil.

I just thought I'd put up a few pics of my brothers corona. He got it running yesterday. We finished a few things up today. A little more work and it's off to the dyno.

It's a stripped corona with 8 point cage, 4 link rear & an unopened 1j with all the bolt ons.

 

Well it only took 3 weeks out of Austria. But today I received a throttle shaft bearing kit for my weber. The standard bushes are so outdated.

 

I consider myself a patient man. 9 months of harassing and I finally got my 5k head back from the shop.

 

Little over priced, but what can a man do.

It needed some work. Blasted, 5 welds, surfaced, port matched to extractor gaskets, bowled, tapered valve guides, valves cleaned, finished, reseated, combustion chambers deshrouded, springs seats machined and assembled with Performance valve springs.

 

Combustion chambers are 30cc, over the 4k's 34cc, giving me an estimated compression ratio of 11:1.

 

Edited July 31, 201511 yr by GJM85

Sexy

New head is on. Looking at the old head gasket there appeared to be a slight blow through between cylinder 2 & 3. The likely source of the odd knock it developed recently with combusting gases in cylinder 3 igniting compressing gases in cylinder 2.

 

Firstly a comparison of ports. The first is DIY from 5 years ago. The second is professional. A marked difference at $110p/hr for the port & combustion chamber work.

 

 

And just a few from the day. I'll fire it up tomorrow.

 

Is that the manifold gasket on the head or just a pattern to work from?? What's it made of?

It's a copper manifold gasket. I think Taz_Rx had about 25 made and sold a few on here.

 

I had it annealed and this is the third time it's been used. I used high temp sealant with it and it seals perfectly.

Good to see its working for you. Made a huge difference for my setup. I'd burn through an em30 in 3-6 months and now its no longer a problem. Annealing them its really the trick, you can really tell how much softer they get afterwards.

It really was a generous thing you did Taz and it's much appreciated.

 

So the last couple of months I've been having issues with my clutch slipping. It's an Exedy Sports Tuff($300, 5 year ago) and it's seen about 3 years of full use and I checked it in December when I put the lighter flywheel and rebuilt 5 speed in. It looked good.

 

I figured it'd just worn out fast so I bought a Clutch Industries R47NHD($230) and set about fitting yesterday. To my dismay it was the front seal in the gearbox leaking that fouled the clutch plate causing the slip. So a simple clutch swap turned into dismantling a good portion of the 5 speed to reseal the front bit.

 

All done now and I'm actually really impressed with the CI heavy duty kit. It's quiet, firm and smooth and it can slip or grab hard. It's significantly cheaper & makes the previous kit seem cheap.

 

...and we need a topic on how to dismantle the K50 and replace the seal!

 

You did take photos of course....

You can look it it 2 ways... Yeah I made something available for all you guys that bought one.... And you all made the gaskets I wanted cheaper! ;)

Happy to help.

I machined brass rocker spacers. It's always handy to have spare stuff to test fit with.