Hi guys my name is Tim and I recently bought a keto and am currently in the process of doing the usual 4age into keto conversion... now my problem lies in the fact that the engine I bought has obviously been in a car that was in a decent sized accident and one of the tabs off the block where the bellhousing attaches has broken off. Some genius decided a resin was strong enough to hold it but that has since broken while the engine has been on the stand.

 

I haven't taken any pics of the actual break itself but I have found one online and illustrated where it has broken off (completely, not cracked). I'm wondering if it's easy enough to get it fixed or if I should just buy another block; and if it is easier to get it fixed, will I have to strip everything off the block while it's being done? Also what are the chances something will become warped during the weld and render the block useless anyway?

 

Anyway enough talking, here's the pic:

Is a Keto some form of Korean Corolla? ;)

When I did my fwd 4age - auto conversion I couldn't actually use that hole as they are both threaded but being rwd and having the mounts further apart I would be trying to fix it, maybe remove it and drill a hole in each part and put a roll pin in it and then use cold weld on it.

 

Edited extra words out.

Edited September 25, 201016 yr by Trev

Thanks Trev I'll look into it. This sucks!

id be looking at another block if that one hasnt been machined yet. they come up fairly often for around $50-$100. as long as your not after a virgin block with good bores.

 

otherwise i agree with trev, blocks don't get a massive thermal load compared to something like a turbo,id trust it to hold after a weld. so if you can find someone thats ace at cast iron welding get them to fix it before doing any further work to the block.

Everyone forgets about brazing, which should work a treat for a problem like this. I've seen tractors with snapped cast chassis rails that have been braised together and lasted over a decade (still going now). The braze will work its way all the way through the join and shouldn't put as much heat into the block as a mig or tig.

Yeh brazing is a good idea, bolt a bellhousing onto it to hold it all in place. You could weld it too but you'll need pre and post heating to prevent cracking.

I still think that cold weld & a roll pin will be sufficient, to braze it properly you are going to have to heat the casting up enough to take the braze and then stick them together, you can't just stick a bit of melted braze between them, it would be like pouring solder onto a joint instead of flowing it into it.

Find a new block.

I was thinking a new block would be easier, but I've never rebuilt an engine before and I'm new to this whole thing so I don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it...

I was thinking a new block would be easier, but I've never rebuilt an engine before and I'm new to this whole thing so I don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it...

If thats the case i'd agree with Mr Dwarf

Find a new block.

Besides your not talking about some really special block thats had all the race crap thrown at it nor a rare engine block thats was built far back in the dark ages of the american dream time

as has been said, easiest option is to just get a new block and build it.

 

if you were to get it welded, the motor would ahve to be put in an oven, so some amount of stripping would probably have to be done, mainly anything that might melt...

If you have a stick welder, you can get cast craft welding rods from BOC, they aren't cheap but they do a great job.

You won't need to pre-heat the block either with these rods.

 

But there is 2 types, you need to get the right ones.

Boc should be able to help you with that.

I use to weld blocks, manifolds and heads with these rods, they are great, but a little tricky to use.