Well, go fit an oxy sensor and an FMD display and you watch it as you zig-zag for 7hours over the flat plains of inner NSW...

 

It does change the mixture on the SUs with the cold air tube on, you can see it happen. Does the same if you draft a truck.

well since he had a o2 sensor telling him that it would make a difference!

fair crack of the whip mate, no need to come onto it like a bull at a red rag.

 

i think its great what he's done, and he did kinda prove that the wind direction was effecting the leanness/richness of the running of the carbies by using two oxygen sensors and an o2 meter.

 

good work altezza

 

 

I agree mate, good to see someone actually testing and proving their theories with the data to back it up.

 

All too often someone comes along with an idea or concept that has no merit or validation, usually delivered with

dubious statements like "my mate's mate's nextdoor neighbour's hairdresser's cousin did it and he got 1 billion kw at the wheels!"

 

Mr Altezza, I take my hat off to you.

You're taking budget rolla modification to a new level, and it's always interesting and informative to read your posts.

 

And to ke20rollabus, blow it out your a$$. It's people like you who f@$k up decent forums!

Edited November 7, 201015 yr by daggers57

the car isn't going to run rich or lean depending on the wind direction! I'm a qualified mechanic, the only variation or the air fuel mixture is going to be in the jet sizes/ pump squirters, power valve etc. If you want to do something worth wile then run come ducting to the rad support panel for cold air. but of course you have a ke70, so you all know everything so continue to attach horrid cardboard scoops to your car :laff:

do you know what the normal pattern on a occiloscope of a oxgen sensor looks like? of course its a zig zag pattern, thats the sensor cycling from rich to lean! did you see what the fuel ratio was when going into and away from said wind??

the car isn't going to run rich or lean depending on the wind direction! I'm a qualified mechanic, the only variation or the air fuel mixture is going to be in the jet sizes/ pump squirters, power valve etc. If you want to do something worth wile then run come ducting to the rad support panel for cold air. but of course you have a ke70, so you all know everything so continue to attach horrid cardboard scoops to your car :laff:

 

yep real mature, no wonder i hardly come on this forum, too many people with ke70's and no idea

the car isn't going to run rich or lean depending on the wind direction! I'm a qualified mechanic, the only variation or the air fuel mixture is going to be in the jet sizes/ pump squirters, power valve etc. If you want to do something worth wile then run come ducting to the rad support panel for cold air. but of course you have a ke70, so you all know everything so continue to attach horrid cardboard scoops to your car :laff:

 

Being a qualified mechanic does not mean shit, car dealerships hand them bits of paper out these days, wanker.

 

Air delivery also affects the running of a car.

While we are at it, qualified mechanic you say?

 

Here are some of your topics:

 

K Series Efi Idea. need some help

 

4k Slow Jet Carby Q help

Edited November 7, 201015 yr by Trev

yep real mature, no wonder i hardly come on this forum, too many people with ke70's and no idea

 

be a tool be expected to be treated like one

 

 

edit - hi guys i have recently tyaken my ke20 to work to get the carby looked at. my mecahnic says that its not running rich enough at idle, even with the mixture screw turned all the way out. Aparently i need to drill out the idle jet, when i have looked at the work shop man, i think it might be the slow jet?? or is this just the air bleed for the idle circuit?

 

ORIGHT MR MECHANIC!

Edited November 7, 201015 yr by Evan G

so you know what the occiliscope pattern of a functioning oxygen sensor looks like????? ive worked hard for my qualifacation and they don't pass people who don't know what they are doing, but my years of experience don't mean much then?? what do you do for a living?

Ah Tasmanians..

 

Ok, its running SU carbs, so they are NOT like your usual "jet sizes/ pump squirters, power valve etc." They will alter the mixture according to the airflow over the venturi base under the floating piston.

 

So a cold-air tube to the front of the car will pressurise the airbox and push more air into the motor, although I suppose I'd have to rig a manometer to actually check that. I can tell you that fitting a scoop to the top of the airbox in a fibreglass bonnet lifted the bonnet and cracked it, so they can move a lot of air into a motor.

 

..and I did see the change in the mixture, as we were drivng in one direction for ten minutes, then have one corner, and drive that way for another 10minutes and have another corner. Seeing I'd recently fitted the oxy sensors and the FMD I was keeping a close eye on both carbs, and it was the mixture change from one straight to the next that intrigued me.

 

Sure, you're a qualified mechanic, but you're still 40years younger than me, and that's a lot of engines to look at yet!

hahaha i like it how you just deleted my 'how to wire a electronic distributor' thread from your links :happy:

i did not realise you were running SU type carburettors. are they balanced correctly? what condition are the needles in, what oil are you running in them. Sorry but you have to admit that by reading the first post it seemed quite ridiculous. I am young but ive had lots of experiences working with many different engine, my old man is a fitter and turner, also mechanic, ive played with things form old v8's to morris marina's mate.

anyway back on topic... can you give pics of the finished product?

and just how strong did it end up being?