Hey guys,

 

Alec here again with my 4k rebuild that's taking a million years. I'm getting closer and closer. But i've run into a problem. Here's the low down.

 

Basically i had the head "rebuilt" by a mate. He just cleaned it up, new valve stem seals, levelled the attaching surface. But when i got it back, he hadn't taken that plate off the back. So i have no idea what he actually did to it, but it cost me a carton of piss so i'm not complaining (god how bad does that hole look :( )

 

Now i went to take this backplate off the head to change the gasket and clean it up cos it looked manky. And as i was undoing the bottom left bolt it just snapped. Clean in half, like a kit kat out of the freezer.

 

Here's the damage:

 

 

Now how the hell do i fix this? it really sucks, the engine is ready to go in, but i don't wanna have to fix this in the bay cos its freshly painted.

 

I've looked into some of the reverse thread extracting thingies and they seem the go, but its not going to be very easy cos its snapped about 2 mm into the hole (i actually don't know this ahah, jsut making an assumption). Please don't tell me i'm gunna have to drill it out and heli coil it cos i have no idea how that works.

 

thanks guys!!!

Alec

I had the same problem with 2 of those bolts. I got them fixed by a dude with a water jet machine thing (forget name :laff: ).

And then helicoiled. Exy tho!

 

Mission impossible to drill them out as the bolts are harder than the alloy, t'will be a prick

ah shit man, don't tell me that :o

 

and i just secured the head on and stuff. i knew it went together all to easy.

 

*EDIT: how much was it to fix yours KENut? I'm assuming you had to take the head to the fella.

Edited November 6, 201015 yr by RainWarriorDregs

Any reputable workshop should be able to helicoil it.

 

Take the Whole lot to a Radiator or TIG workshop and get the plate deleted altogether. Alloy plate welded in place.

 

Should be able to do it all with the head still on.

Yeah that could be a goer ^^

 

Cost me over 100 from memory, yep with the head off

easy out it..

If you have a welder, put a washer over the broken bolt and weld it to the washer, then weld another bolt to that so you can put a spanner on it.

yeah we're going to try to easy out it. failing that, my mates dad is an aluminium welder so i might get a plate welded over that hole so i never have to worry again.

i'll let you guys know :)

Just an FYI - I've got a busted head bolt on the missus' pug block. I put probably 100ftlb on it before it broke so its proper stuff. Took it to a mechanic to easy out it, he drill it then stuff two Snap-on easy outs! >| So couldn't get it out.

 

He then told me about a local guy hear who he's used before that uses electrolosis to remove busted bolts!! Apparently he just hooks a couple of electrode up to the broken bolt and it gets EATEN away!! Apparently doesn't effect the thread in the block at all!! Not sure how it works but the mechanic said he's successfully done it before with busted bolts in turbo ex housings. :hmm:

Yep, that would be the ultimate Taz. A spark eroder would slowly burn the bolt out, and I think the electrical resistance of the alloy is so different it doesn't vanish at the same time. Probably the most expensive option tho'.

 

If you go to weld a plate over it, watch out for heat distortion in the head.

Just an FYI - I've got a busted head bolt on the missus' pug block. I put probably 100ftlb on it before it broke so its proper stuff. Took it to a mechanic to easy out it, he drill it then stuff two Snap-on easy outs! So couldn't get it out.

 

He then told me about a local guy hear who he's used before that uses electrolosis to remove busted bolts!! Apparently he just hooks a couple of electrode up to the broken bolt and it gets EATEN away!! Apparently doesn't effect the thread in the block at all!! Not sure how it works but the mechanic said he's successfully done it before with busted bolts in turbo ex housings. :hmm:

 

Yep ezyouts a great way to replace mild steel, with high tensile steel, that will resist all attempts to drill it out.

I like to go easy on the bolts if still stiff CRC, and one belt with a big hammer, then try again, if still no go break out oxy.

I typically break them somewhere in the middle of the process, then break the ezyout, mig a nut on to it, finnally give up and throw it out.

fml! i just snapped the same one cause there was coolant leaking out of it, so i thought "maybe there loose?" tight SNAP farkkkk!

ive tried this method a few times with snapped bolts, get a steel washer with a corrosponding hole size to the broken bolt, put it ontop of the end of the bolt and put a small weld in the center. then weld a nut ontop of the washer and put a spanner onto it, if your luckey it will come out.

haha, that sucks evan, i can't believe how many people have problems with that plate, what exactly is it for? observation hole? looks like heater lines could come off it or something cos its runs out of a water gallery (i think :blush:)

 

I haven't tried anything on it yet because of exams, but i'm guna try to source some easy outs from somewhere (or just bite the bullet and buy some) and give it a shot. The nut welding trick will come second i think rollabus.

 

 

Also whats everyones thoughts on getting someone to weld a plate over it, possibility of getting it done for a pittance but should i bother?

I know for sure that most of the Early KE30's have one of their heater hoses coming off there.

 

3K bigports have a welsh plug there.

 

I actually snapped the exact same bolt trying to take the plate off to replace the gasket. So your definatly not alone haha.

 

EDIT: I'd get it welded up. Saves any possible issues in the future.

Edited November 7, 201015 yr by SLO-030