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4agze Vs Ca18det


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Firstly that sr20 has a crap dyno sheet it ramps up 300hp bewteen 180-190km/h it would break traction something crazy and be shithouse down the 1/4. Dyno queen!!!! lol

 

SR'S are about 14 kg heavier then a CA. Not giving ca's a rap because i have one and not wanting to start or hear the whole CA vs SR vs 4AG!

 

But ca's and sr's have a huge amount of aftermarket parts available and 2nd hand parts are everywhere.

 

CA's are reliable motors have a nice strong block, Great head design. Compare one to a rb20,25 side byside while apart they are almost the same.

 

Bottom ends are spinning in 2nd hand motors as are blown h/gaskets but lets not forget that most of these motors are 15 years old and who knows what our friends in japland treated these motors like.

 

As for the sump any decent workshop should be able to modify the sump add a litre or so in capicty and baffle it a little better. Dry sumps are really expensive and unless its a dedicated track really a waste of money.

 

SR'S have a weaker block and a shit head design, Though the head can be sorted out.

 

If it was me i would go for the ca18 rebuild it and go from there.

If you really wanna go toyota go the 4a rebuild it get compression to a good level and through a turbo manifold on it and a t28 (b/bearing) turbo

 

Goodluck and keep us posted!

Edited by ca18rolla
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so what would fit easyer i, gessin the 4AGZE not the CA? and is it hard to get the parts for the 4AGZE, and just harder than the CA's?

 

 

Ca fits no worries need no mods to the bonnet, fire-wall, chassis or ther trans tunnel. Only need to gut the shifter location bout five inches further backwards.

 

4a would be the same as far as i could tell when measuring one up to see if it ll fit ok.

 

Parts for the CA18de and det are normally of the shelf places like high-octane rocket ind. etc have pistons cams rods gaskets manifolds and any head shop can order parts for the head so everything is pretty well available aybe a six week wait at the most on some things rods etc..

 

Unsure bout the 4a but you would be able to order stuff either straight from japan or through a parts wholesaler if need be and un-available in Aus.

 

Cheers

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...ic=4477&hl=ca18

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Yeah, ever spilt a ca block dude something else will let go before you spilt a cast ca block. You push a sr20 alloy block and be prepared to possable split it. Anyway not knocking sr20's presenting the facts f@$k give me a fj20 over a ca18 or sr20 any day. Even better wait a few months and i ll post a 2.4l big horse power 4cyl (nissan) once built and in.

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Yeah man they make big power, But is it useable and how reliable is the motor. I don't mind sr's at all as said in previous posts, don't get me wrong. But after seeing sr's from dyno cars and some serious street cars, I am not a massive lover of them!

 

Man i know what makes a strong motor. But my piont is the blocks are strong as in a CA and without throwing a rod or something you'll be pressed to f@$k the block!

 

Do sr's even run a crank gridle man?

high rpm, high hp SR's have be known to suffer crank walk

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Do sr's even run a crank gridle man?

high rpm, high hp SR's have be known to suffer crank walk

 

Yes the Redtops (and possibly later models up till around 1997-1999 depending on locality) were built with a girdle including the SR20DEs. The crank walk on high HP motors is because the standard crank bolts are slightly too small. You have to retap the thread and use slightly larger ARP studs made specifically to help the problem.

 

SR20s have the nice block feature of being able to completely replace the bore sleeve with a stronger one. Its possible for the stock sleeves to push against eachother and turn an egg'd shape but alot of its to do with tuning (detonation) but any motor will die with a crap tune. With good tuning the stock sleeves survive up past the 500-600whp mark. Another potential problem is that the alloy block will warp more easy than a cast iron one. But keep them cool and they'll keep on hammering. can't say Ive seen a properly prepared SR20DET block explode at anything under 600 odd wheel HP.

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Yeh, what he said. I think all the sr failure storys are true, but it all depends how much power you are trying to make. As for the lag, well once again attempting to pull 600hp from a 2litre is a bit silly, of course youre gonna get lots of lag.

My rolla has boost at 2000rpm and produces enough torque to melt the 17s all through 3rd, no brake! :) Go the disco potato.

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ca's blocks are bulletproof, but their internals arent as strong as the could be, the stock ca internals are only rated (by nissan) to 8 pound of boost, its not unheard of for people to run 12 and 13 pounds but I'm unsure of the success/failure of these cars

 

i have a ca18de sitting out the back i wanna put it in the bens sleeka, but i don't want the s13 box, if i were to get a custom bellhousing made would the t50 hold up... also it would probably cost less than an s13 box and custom tailshaft to get made up

 

so would a t50 hold up? or would i have to drive like a granny

 

oh and ca18 ftw!

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