I bought the car with the clock stopped at 330,000kms. I took it to Wakefield a few weeks ago and thrashed the guts out of it. Ran a 1.31 with that motor :-)

You're probably right that its not just tappet rattle that's wrong with it. But its definitely an issue. I measured one having a .8mm gap. This motor is probably passed its used by date. I just wanted to fix the tappets cause it doesn't cost anything to fix.

I won't be spending any money on it, when I can put it towards a conversion.

I'll pull the cover off again on Thursday and have another shot at getting them to budge.

Anyone else had them seized up?

 

Oh also, one of the reasons for it being so filthy might be because when i bought it the hose that leads from the top of the rocker cover to the air filter had been chopped off some time in its life. so its had unfiltered air/dirt/crap getting into it for god knows how long.

Edited August 2, 201115 yr by lildavo

That looks as though the rocker cover has been left open for some time at one point in it's life.... See if you can source less corrosive ones

from a wreck.

 

if your talking to me, the motor got shipped from the states to here with a BHG, how long it had had a BHG i don't know...

i only needed to get it running long enough to pass roadworthy and i have now sold the motor :)

Ah that would explain it, why did you get it from the states? Not available here?

lol I didnt actually read the post, for some reason I thought it was the o/p who posted that pic haha.

yeah, its a 2 door ke70

check my rides thread if your interested :)

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/33283-love-ke70s-hks-1g-2-door-ke70/

Questions: Where do you check what cylinder is in TDC when adjusting? Are there markings somewhere or just look through spark plug holes? :D

 

How do you turn/crank the engine the easiest way when doing this?

Make sure the car is out of gear and with a ratchet spinning the crankshaft pulley turn it clockwise. you should see the valves moving up and down as you rotate it. the valves open during the intake and exhaust stroke and are closed during the compression and power stroke. watch the way the valves operate a couple of times think intake, compression, power, exhaust.

 

A helpful tip is when cylinder 1 is at TDC cylinder 4 will be transitioning betwen the the exhaust stroke and intake stroke, so you'll see cylinder 4s exhaust valve pushed down immediately followed by its intake valve pushed down - at this point Cylinder 1 is at TDC and you'll also notice a timing mark on the pulley line up

 

Least this is how I've been doing it, someone correct me if I'm wrong please...

yeah good strategy lildavo.

 

clr 1 and clr 4 are linked and clr2 and clr3 are linked.

 

so when clr1 is "rocking" (exhaust closing, intake opening) clr4 will have loose tappets and you adjust 4, and visa versa, when 4 is rocking, adjust clr 1.

 

similarly for clr2 and clr3, when clr2 is rocking adjust clr3, and when clr3 is rocking adjust clr2.

Thats the rule of "Three" isn't it ?

dunno....that's the rule of ke70dave's dad:P

lol Dave! That's the common way of doing it, finding the cylinder that has rocking tappets and settings its twin.

 

The other is the 'rule of 9', where you get any valve fully open and set the valve that adds up to 9.

 

So number 7 valve fully open, set valve number 2

 

Number 4 valve fully open, set number 5

 

Number 8 valve fully open, set number 1.