BM44 master cylinder and front brakes are on.

 

I've change brake fluid over to Tilton's TSR-1 seen as I need to do a full flush anyway. It was a decision between that and Castrol SRF but seen as SRF comes in 1L bottles and Tilton comes in 250mL bottles I went with the Tilton stuff as it's less fluid wasted. Plus it's slightly cheaper.

 

Found out my clutch master is leaking so I'll order a replacement master, slave and change out the hardline spaghetti for a braided one.

 

 

Bit of a shitty pic but here you go:

 

Got one side of the rear finished. All new arms (except LCA), R33 handbrake setup, new rotors and R33 calipers. Need to make up a bracket for the handbrake cables because they're a tad short/long.

 

Bilstein's finally have decent strut tops now. Previously I was running the standard ones with the horrid bushes. As a bonus it gives me an extra ~2.5cm in adjustment as I'm almost bottomed out on the sleeve and still need to go lower.

 

Those coilovers look quite sexy!!

Good to see your making progress. We are looking to get dads 1600 on the track soon. Just have to do 3" exhaust with lambda sensor in dump pipe(OEM sensor for ecu is in turbo housing on FJ20), wire in/tune haltech and haltech boost controller. Should be fun!!

 

How heavy is this thing?? Were about 1000kgs with the FJ in the 1600. Been thinking about the 33 brake conversion just not sure if it's needed.

Edited April 30, 201214 yr by kickn5k

O2 sensor in the turbo housing :| hardcore!

 

 

Was about 1280kg before the stripping. MAYBE around 1200kg now. It's possible to get them down near 1000kg without carbon panels but I'm not really sure where that weight comes from.

Good news for tall people.

 

After a tip off from my mechanic that it might fit with a bushing change, I've found the R34 GT-T gear stick is a direct fit in the FS5W71C (SR20) gearbox. The shifter has a kink which sets it back about 3-4cm. For me it took the shifter from "a bit of a reach" to something "acceptable". Fits with all the trim like a standard one.

 

 

So after about 3 months short of 4 years I've successfully made a return to the track.

 

Wasn't exactly plain sailing though. Lost the EGR bung out of the dump pipe after 2 hot laps. Only did like a 1:32 on national circuit bedding in my brakes. Melted the high temp silicone and the stainless on stainless helped the bung rattle loose (It will be TIG welded in permanently in future). Got lucky and guessed the size correctly (M24x1.50) and got a brass bung from a bolt shop. New bung in, stainless steel zip tied to lock it into position. Lost about an hour and a half of running.

 

Track had switched over to sprint circuit by the time I was ready to run again. Ended up getting a bunch of laps on sprint as most cars were getting ready to head home. Did fairly consistent 1:01s most of the afternoon once I got used to the car again. Pulled in because the tyres had started to give up (heat) and found the dump pipe had started to separate from the turbo thanks to the craptacular exhaust system which is now scheduled for replacement. Called it a day at that point. Then found some coolant leaking slowly from the spagetti behind the manifold so that will need attention too.

 

Balance felt pretty neutral without the wing on but a bit lacking in traction on corner exit. With the wing on the car felt neutral in the slower corners though, as expected, pushed a bit in the high speed corners but the rear felt absolutely solid. Time for a front splitter and undertray. Proper limited slip diff is amazing, steering the car out of the corner with the throttle is fantastic.

 

These 4 year old used RT615 Azenis (manufactured 0708) were surprisingly decent. A little hard but stickied up alright.

 

Definitely need new brake rotors on the front. These ones had some pretty bad judder but overall the new brake setup is fantastic. Good bias and I still haven't found the "ragged edge of retardation" as Martin Brundle would put it. On a couple corners I'm having to back out of the brakes and roll into the corner.

 

So in the end on what was pretty much a shakedown the car did a 1:01.0832 beating my previous PB of 1:02.390. Now I have to resist the temptation to bolt on proper fresh semi slicks and drop down into the 59s.

 

 

 

Oh and it blows flames about a foot long on gearshift I'm told :D

Thats so cool.

 

Flames!!

 

Nice to see the work paying off for you. ;)

 

So in the end on what was pretty much a shakedown the car did a 1:01.0832 beating my previous PB of 1:02.390. Now I have to resist the temptation to bolt on proper fresh semi slicks and drop down into the 59s.

 

 

 

Oh and it blows flames about a foot long on gearshift I'm told :D

 

DO IT! Sort the coolant leak, front brakes and bolt the wing on and have a crack. Worst case you only just nudge the minute flat mark.

 

Flames? I'll go get some marshmallows for roasting :yes:

The car definitely has a 59 in it even with the Azenis. Just need to improve the reliability and then practice practice practice. I'm sure a more experienced driver could jump in it and churn out a 59 in a few laps.

 

Basically I don't want to just bolt on sticky tyres because I wont have really achieved anything other than proving I can pay for sticky tyres.

.

 

Basically I don't want to just bolt on sticky tyres because I wont have really achieved anything other than proving I can pay for sticky tyres.

 

I like that mentality :y:

The car definitely has a 59 in it even with the Azenis. Just need to improve the reliability and then practice practice practice. I'm sure a more experienced driver could jump in it and churn out a 59 in a few laps.

 

Pick me!!

If you can live with the seat position you'd be quite welcome. It's got no sliders and it takes forever to get it in and out.

I'll own another S chassis one day. One day...

 

They're great fun to drive. I bet you're having a ball with this at the track!

To be honest if I have to reshell this car or were to start again, I'd start with an S14. I don't regret using an S13, I mean hell a crappy S14 was like $10k back then, but the S14 chassis is markedly better. I'd keep the Type X SR20 though.

 

New exhaust ordered (Blitz Nur Spec R), new rotors ordered (Project Mu CRD), plus some other bits and bobs (decat pipe, gaskets).

 

Took my dump pipe down and got my mechanic to weld up the EGR fitting. Not going to leak this time! I've also got some toplock nuts which will hopefully stay on the dump pipe better than the serrated flange nuts I was using (definitely not the right application).

s14s are pretty cheap now, and you get alot of car for your cash.

 

but hey nothign wrong with an s13 either.