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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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  • altezzaclub
    altezzaclub

    In 16 years time... "The Girl's AE86"

  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    This is really really cool, thanks for sharing!   So 2.4 capacity, as light as a 4ag. Cheap as to buy. :hmm:   What are the factory powers numbers for the model you are using?

  • actually the second strongest method of clamping a crank is level with the edge of the block like that, pending how much metal is on the other side, have a look at a deisel or an F20C, they have a spl

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  • Author

Yes I do, and youre responsible for a lot of it. When you know something is so close to running the body can come together quite quickly.

 

Ive ordered a braided stainless remote T piece for the oil senders that should fit neatly where I want it to go. Ive also found a mate with some clips to replace the missing ones around my quarterglass.

 

I will be buying speakers soon and mounting them for the stereo since its apart as ʞ©$ɟ on the inside.

 

Also put on my door rubbers, and counted out the trims, it appears I have it all for once.

 

Does anyone know how to fit a window to a hatch properly? Whats the technique? Someone help me out so I can have a weatherproof car.

 

Will ship out a few things I've been ebaying today and then have a look for what else I can do on it.

 

If anyone out there in the world wide web is reading this can you help me out with any of the following parts?

 

Adm/zenki parker/corner light wiring and bulbs for both sides.

 

Also the wiring for the interior light that plugs into the kick panel area.

 

Pair of door locks that match with a key.

 

Would love a pair of front gaurd plastic inner wells as I can actually fit them in my car for once.

 

Some ae86 centre console brackets so I can bolt my console in.

 

Plus I need some adm number plate lights.

 

Would also love some mudflaps.

 

Rear seat side trims are missing all together

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

Just managed to get the perfect fittings to sort my heater connection once and for all from speed flow. I have a couple of fittings coming to give me an m16 banjo to 5/8 hose nipple. Its forged aluminium so I should be ok for water. Cost about $55 including freight too. Not much if it proves to work fine.

  • Author

So again I found inspiration and went to the shed and fitted the fuel tank back into the car. Its all tucked away nicely and even has the rubber bush installed around the filler. I have also found the branch of wiring that goes from the fuel sender lid to the number plate lights, so that's installed.

 

Its now back on terrafirma and rolling. Looks pretty menacing. I also got the clips on one side 1/4 glass switched around, then clipped on the moulding that goes around it. Looks sweet. Once I get the three clips I'm missing I can finish the other side. I clipped on the mouldings either side of the windscreen.

 

Started to play with wipers but either the stock wipers hit the dmax bonnet or I have no idea which wiper goes where. One has a P and 2 have a D cast in them. Honestly I'm not sure which are even ae86 type. Justin can you take a couple of shots of yours before next weeks wiring session? Ive also found the plugs to put on to make the door switches connect as factory.

 

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

If anyone out there in the world wide web is reading this can you help me out with any of the following parts?

Pair of door locks that match with a key.

 

I might be able to get you some new aftermarket ones?

  • Author

List to finish:

 

Wiring all complete.

Buy ecu and load with map.

Fit seatbelts, console, dash, seats and doors.

Glass in the hatch.

Fit oil pressure senders when the remote kit comes.

 

 

Motor out briefly so I can:

Fit oil pipe extension and reposition the drain bung.

Spot weld in some mounting lugs for the fuel lines and adjust the tunnel and firewall clearance to suit them better.

Grind off some ugly bits in the floor and trim the shifter cut-out neatly.

Shave the ac firewall holes to cut noise in the cabin.

Convert the radiator support top bar to be removable so that it allows the motor to go in and out much easier.

Stitch weld the cross member to stiffen it. Maybe brace the rack mounts.

Paint the bay.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

Spent most of the morning fiddling. I have the heater hoses I need now. I have also arranged to have the local sheet metal guy fold up a piece to block air from the bottom of the radiator.

 

I've test fitted the hoses and all seem fine. Once my universal cable comes I can make it actuate between hot and cold and that's that for the heater.

 

I also realised that with the motor back at the correct angle I have got enough room for the efi temp sender to be in the stock location.

 

I removed and cut down my cooling panel above the radiator and have painted it silver metallic.

 

I also bolted in the rear tow hooks through the bar. Remind me to do this before the tank goes in next time.

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