Good to see someone doing something quiet different and PROPERLY too, can't wait to see this screaming round good job bro.

Cheers lotec11 :) yeah I'm gettin keen as too. Thanks for the props

Absolutely sick mate love it!! if it was finished id be voting for it as coty very inspiring

So a bit more progress has been made in the way of running lines to the reservior from the m/cylinders and the hard lines. I tried to keep the fluid transfer lines as close to the actual rear brake and clutch lines as possible, this is just to hide them a little and clean up the engine bay. Due to the holes in the firewall being through the reinforcement bracket i have drilled them a little bigger so I can weld the sheetmetal together to increase the strength back to original. The hose is 14mm OD so I drilled the holes @ 16.5mm ID.

 

Heres the pedals with the adapters attached, they are facing the wrong way in this pic as when installed they actually face toward the firewall.

Heres one with the pedals installed showing how close they come to the wiper motor mount

This next one shows the bulkhead fittings on the inside for the rear brake and clutch lines plus where the reservior lines fit through the firewall (still waiting on the front m/cylinder rubber hose)

And one from inside the engine bay

Now the following 2 give you an idea of how well things are hidden when the trumpets are fitted back up

Wow cheers feral4k!!! Thanks heaps, maybe next year????

Edited November 21, 201213 yr by drift freak

Nothing wrong with a good condition, well built steering box. It's once they're knackered, they're scary.

mines at the scary point now...my brother works for a tool manufacturer (multi-axis CNC Machines haha)

I'm having them very soon re-make the sector roller so it fits tight again. A little over an eighth turn of slack now and follows every bump in the road...

All I can say DF is...........Holy Crap! I'm happy when mine gets me to work every day...you will definitely need video posted when this gets to the running stages.

Well I decided to have a crack at the hard lines for the brakes this arvo. It was a challenge to say the least but a local brake guy gave me some really handy advice. He suggested that when I'm planning the lines I use some 2mm fencing wire to mock up the route so I don't waste any 3/16" tube. Awesome advice!!!

So I started by putting the flex lines onto the calipers and mounting them to the strut and mounting tab on the body. I then mocked up the drivers side line with the wire then bent the tube to match the template. I used a SP Tools pipe flaring kit to flare the ends WITH THE TUBE NUTS ON (don't forget these as you will need to cut the tube to put them on after and the hardline will be too short). I found out how to flare the hardline by typing in 'double flare brake line' into youtube.

End result looked like this

The installed braided line looks like this

In this photo you can see the splitter under the dash for left and right brakes, the centre outlet goes to the master cylinder

 

I'll get some photos of the passenger side but its pretty much identical to the drivers side apart from it runs over the top of the firewall recess, its just a straight run for this then angled down once its out of the cabin and under the guard.

After talking with Jordain a few weeks back I took his advice and drilled a small hole in the inner guard as seen in the picture below with no.1 pointing to it, this is to remove the front brake lines from the enigine bay as they used to go through the engine bay and come through the inner guard at the no.2 hole.

This solves the major problem of routing the passenger side brake line up and over the motor, past the recess in the firewall. It would look really messy and just plain crap if it ran through the engine bay.

 

So onto the under dash hard lines tommorrow arvo, these will be quite difficult as there is multiple bends to clear everything and only limited space.

luke will have curved ram tubes by the end of the year in 90mm 110 and also 145mm long with the same taper and also will have slots so you can turn them any way then lock off.. 'your biggest problem is your brake reserviors being in the way of your airbox assembley

Hey Autofill,

Yeah I know the reservoir is in the way but I will be making a custom housing to accommodate it. I am thinking I will either use 45mm straight or 90 curved to gain some room. I really only want to use the air box for rego inspections and if it get defected but leave them exposed during normal conditions.

 

I have a friend who runs mesh between the TB and trumpet and fits a foam filter into the trumpet.... What are your thoughts?? Would this create too much turbulence and reduce performance. Worst case scenario I run braided line to the reservoir and move the reservoir next to the radiator on the drivers side of the radiator support (last option)

use uni filters or socks to you make a airbox up ,that other idea will kill hp and accelerating problems plus lean out .all this stuff would need to be done on a dyno

you could weld a bracket further along around the strut tower

where you are running the pressure reg

Edited November 29, 201213 yr by autofill

The pressure reg is after the fuel rail, mounted on the drivers side inner guard. If I move the reservoir to the front face of the strut tower there should be enough room for the air box but if I do this I still have to work out how I will fit the air box between the no.4 trumpet and the firewall, at the moment there is only 5mm clearance.

thats where my curved ram tubes help

Yeah for sure but this car has broken me. Need to save FML!!!! Where's the lotto win when you need it!!

So I have made some more progress but man its frustratingly slow.

 

I got all the front brake lines made and installed, clutch line connected and the rear line in up until the flex line to the diff. I am currently using a SP Tools brake flaring tool and have found the flares extremely hard to make with a consistent finish that wont leak as the steel lines are extremely hard to flare. This tool would probably work fine on copper or aluminium tubing but not steel or stainless.

Anyways I tried to bleed the system using the existing lines with temporary flares and it just leaked fluid striaght out of the back of the m/cylinder. After a bit of research I found this diagram on what flare suits what fittings.

So I have decided to bite the bullet and buy a good flare tool from the states, cost a bit more than I would have liked but I'll have it forever so its a bit of a trade off.

After all the muckin around I got the lines bent up so I now have templates to follow when I go to make the final lines.

So for now I'll be removing the motor, gearbox and driveline, heater unit and the dash and will try and get the rust and the rest of the welding sorted then once I have the flare tool I'll finish the lines and get it driveable.