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So I spent most of the weekend working on the car with some very pleasing progress. I got the rest of the exhaust put together, I'm not entirely happy with the rear muffler arrangement but it will do for now. Also I'm thinking about remaking the section over the diff with mandrel bends, just to make it a little smoother and neater.

 

Ground clearance was a mojor issue as i wanted around 10mm for clearance from the body of the car. The exhausts lowest point finished up smack on 100mm from the ground when its sitting at ride height.

 

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I also mounted the air temp sensor by making a bracket out of flat aluminium i had spare from the radiator end tank construction. It is quite a simple design and bolts between no.1 & no.2 intake trumpet. (will post some pics tonight)

 

Now its onto routing the clutch and brake lines this week. Not really looking forward to it to be hones but it has to be done.

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you could get away with buying a mandrel donut or two to make that bend a bit tidier, would give you a nice radius rather than flats.

 

good onya for giving it a go though.

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Yeah pretty much what I had in mind, it will allow me to reposition the rear muffler too. I have a few other issues I need sorting out, the motor is only firing on 1&4 so I need to hunt that issue down before I progress any further.

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Ok so I spent the morning installing the brake switch and clutch/brake reservior. Pretty happy with how it all came together although there isn't much room for filter socks or manifold now. Not sure how I'll get around this issue but I'll sort that later haha.

 

So I pulled the pedals out of the car and bent up the horizontal part of the bracket for the brake switch and drilled the mounting hole in it for the switch. I then cut and drilled the mounting plate that attaches to the pedal assembly. From here I bolted the mounting bracket to the pedals and measured the length of the horizontal piece + a few mm's just in case. Then I put the horizontal bracket into place ensuring the switch was activated when the pedal was in the relaxed position and welded it together. With this setup the switch completes the brake circuit when the pedal is pushed to the floor.

 

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So then I moved onto the reservior mount. I am a little confined as to where I could put this as the full level in the reservior must be above the master cylinder so the fluid will flow under gravity. I also didn't want to run hoses all over the engine bay so as close to the firewall was the neatest and most logical spot. Now I've seen Jordain's setup where he is going to move his wiper motor to allow more room for his reserviors on top of the m/cylinders but this presents its own problems of making sure the fluid doesn't leak out without being noticed in behind the dash and also the issue of remounting the wiper motor and making sure everything works as it should.

 

First I made a template of the shape of the strut tower where I roughly thought the reservior was going to sit (doesn't need to be perfect as the welding process fills any small gaps). I then made sure this level was above the m/cylinders (as mentioned before) and cleaned the area up with a sanding disc ready for welding. I had a lower control arm from another diff laying around so I cut a piece from that and cut the shape out of it. Drilled some mounting holes and welded the nuts to the back of the mount. I then double checked its position with the reservior mounted to the bracket and tacked it to the strut tower.

 

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So it looks like this when finished

 

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Looking good mate, very thought out process,

 

You going to be running a booster for the brakes?

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Nisrola - not to start with as I have a friend with a similar setup with no booster and his brakes have great feel and don't need to much effort to get it to pull up. If it doesn't work all that well I will be putting a booster under each front guard (for front and rear) to fix it. Fingers crossed it works fine without it though, will be a massive pain in the arse to replumb it.

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Yeah I'm gunna need to make some sort of filter box. Probably out of fiberglass maybe alloy sheet. Definitely will need to sort something out. Are those photos of a 4a???

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Is this you Glenn??? I was chasing a timing belt and tensioner but got a genuine belt from Toyota for $84 so pretty happy with that.

Do you have any dimensions for the air box, like how tall the air box is, how far it extends behind the last throttle body (toward the firewall)??? Also who made the curved trumpets?? They look trick :)

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