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4K-C To 4K-E


Spencer

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So with very little info going around on 4k-c to 4k-e conversion I thought I would start a nice an simple thread that could be put into our library. Everything used will be standard from a 4k-e onto a basic 4k-c, the internals of the 4k-c will not be touched.

 

Hardware

 

1) Air Flow Meter

post-11944-0-52919300-1318321888_thumb.jpg

 

2) Throttle Body

post-11944-0-01135900-1318321930_thumb.jpg

 

3) Intake Runners

post-11944-0-92599000-1318322003_thumb.jpg

 

4) Intake Manifold Adapter

post-11944-0-25549700-1318322056_thumb.jpg

 

5) Fuel Rail

post-11944-0-74209500-1318322095_thumb.jpg

 

6) Rocker Cover

post-11944-0-09453400-1318322583_thumb.jpg

 

7) Electronic Distributor

post-11944-0-65460500-1318322199_thumb.jpg

 

8) Ignition Coil

post-11944-0-08051000-1318322226_thumb.jpg

 

9) Oxygen Meter

post-11944-0-56282300-1318322320_thumb.jpg

 

10) 4k-e ECU

post-11944-0-02970500-1318322604_thumb.jpg

 

11) Thermostat housing

post-11944-0-51803400-1319035988_thumb.jpg

 

Electrical

Toyota Starlet Maunal

 

post-11944-0-09239700-1318421283_thumb.jpg

18 Pin Connector

 

E2 - Earth

IG - Igniter / Injector Pulse Signal

VS - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor

E3 - Earth

VC - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor

W - Check Engine Warning Light

BATT - Unswitched 12v power supply

+B - Ignition switched 12v power supply

THA - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor

EMS - ?

B/K - Stop Light / Brake Switch

SPD - Speed Sensor

STA - ECU Start Signal

A/C - Air Conditioner On

OX - O2 Sensor

 

12 Pin Connector

 

THW - Water Temperature Sensor

E1 - Earth

IDL - Throttle Position Sensor

TL - Throttle Position Sensor

VF - Test Connection

PSW - Throttle Position Sensor

T - Test Connection

#10 - Injectors

#20 - Injectors

E01 - Earth

E02 - Earth

 

Wiring Diagrams

 

4K-E Wiring Diagram3.pdf

4K-E Wiring Diagram4.pdf

4K-E Wiring Diagram5.pdf

 

 

 

 

Let me know what is missing and I'll add it.

Edited by Spencer
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Best option would be to run a surge tank, don't think the your fuel tank is baffled enough not too, you will get fuel starvation going around corners otherwise.

You will need a lift pump and a high pressure pump.

I am not experienced with 4ke's but looks like you already have a fuel pressure regulator on your fuel rail, but since your going super charged you may need an adjustable one.

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This is not for the supercharger, this is just a basic how to guide to convert your 4k-c to a 4k-e...... Seeing that more and more of these setups are coming in from Nz and Mayalasia and the lack of infomation on the web of what a kit should consist of and how to set it up is really shocking .

 

So thought I would be a nice guy and document my conversion therefore I get to ask of heaps and questions and get it running and everyone in history to come can have something to go off. Everyone Wins :happy:

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You will most definitely need a high pressure fuel pump (use a bosch inline or similar). And that may be your regulator and return line on the end of the fuel rail. If not, they are not expensive or complicated. Do you have the loom for it? And why is the rocker cover different? Will be a great write up, good luck with it.

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The Throttle body sits directly on top of the rocker cover so undoing the standard rocker cover oil cap would be near impossible and you still got to try and get a funnel in it to change oil , so Toyota moved the the cap and neck to the back of the cover so it becomes more accessible. A lot of people over look this simple item when buying a EFI kit.

 

I do have a loom for it that I might redo it looks a bit "rough" but will have a closer look this weekend.

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I would say that getting a starlet EFI tank would be a challenge in it self, unless of course it is from a modern model starlet.

If I was you I would set up a surge tank and lift pump instead. It would be a better option anyway. I'll put up my info soon, just been a bit busy lately.

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People over at Club-k have been speaking of changing there starlet carby fuel tank to the baffled fuel tank from the efi models ,

Can someone please explain to me what they mean an how it would affect my conversion?

 

EFI cars generally run baffle plates in their fuel tank to prevent the fuel sloshing around. Since carby cars often run mechanical (in the engine-bay) or electric (engine-bay or in-tank) low-pressure fuel pumps, and the carby bowl acts as a mini reservoir, starving the fuel pump ever so slightly in heavy g-forces isn't a big problem. On the other hand, EFI cars generally run high-pressure electric in-tank pumps, which require the fuel for lubrication and have no real backup reservoir (since the fuel is circulated back to tank in most situations from the fuel rail) - this means that heavy cornering with no baffles in the tank can starve the fuel pump, whicn in turn can cause both the fuel pump to be damaged and the engine to lean out, neither of which are good things.

 

So, if you are converting a carby car to EFI, it is recommended to swap in a baffled fuel tank, and generally this is easiest if you use the tank from an EFI-spec model of the same car.

 

Failing that, a common solution is to run a surge tank and lift pump - low pressure in-tank pump to "lift" the fuel into a seperate small surge tank (maybe 2-3L or so, baffled) which has a high-pressure EFI fuel pump in it, which supplies the engine. This way, the EFI pump is always in a baffled tank, but you don't have to worry about trying to find a whole new fuel tank.

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