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Is My Alternator Broken?


rjenman

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OK so I've had a problem for a while that my battery runs flat really easily.

 

I was listening to my stereo for like 20 minutes when I waxed my car thisarv, so when I go to start her up she's flat as a tack........ no worries, got a jump start, headed off. Ran alright for a while but then the lights started going dim. So I pull into a side street and let it idle for 10 minutes or so.... pull off and the problem is still just as bad, and after a minute I couldn't even rev the engine without the lights off!! Ran without lights on, trying to get home, but then she won't even run with the lights off entirely and I broke down and had to call mum for a jumpstart again.

 

Made it home with the lights off but the gauge lights were getter dimmer and dimmer on the 10 minute drive home.

 

 

So yeh my new years eve is spent typing here. I figure my alternator's had it and won't charge the battery properly or even give me enough AC to run the car at all.... considering putting the one off my KE30 parts car into it... sound right to you guys? :wink:

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^^^what he said

you drive a ke70 yes? if so they run a bosch alternator limited to 14.3 v

when i tested the current back to my battery at idle it was 13.8 and fell away slowly with revs....weird i know but it does the job

 

and along the lines of what sloth was saying if you want to uprate ur alternator this could be a good trick

Ford falcon XF 60 Amp alternators can have the rotor and stator used in KE70 Bosch alternators... bumping it up from 30-40A to 60A, perfect or EFI upgrades to K series motors.. you use the KE70 front and rear housing, but the regulator is identical. it makes the whole thing about 5mm longer, so you need to find longer bolts to hold the alt together, and make a small spacer at the rear mount to the bracket on the block.

source: http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=260

let us know how the readings go :wink:

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Correct charging voltage is between 13.5 and 14.5, anything higher and you will boil you're battery and it will die.

 

The voltage shouldn't really climb with revs, given that these cars are old, they will to a certain extent, but generally they should be around the same at idle as full noise.

 

The plugs can be changed to suite the different brand altenators if you really want to use the other brand.

 

Bosch are generally the best ones.

 

The battery shouldn't be the problem here, as a car will run without a battery in it, the altenator provides all the power.

 

Since you have a spare, just swap it over and check.

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yeah i did run it for a bit after it was jumped, with the leads still connected to the donor battery... I'm guessing that I charged the battery a bit and it got charged by my alternator a bit once it was going but not much... I think my alternator is dysfunctional but not yet broken.

 

today i charged the battery with a charger... and put it in, the car started first go. Then it started doing it again after like 20 minutes or something and I came home. Only just made it I think, twas dying.

 

I don't want to buy a new alternator or get it fixed if I don't have to because I'm planning on getting a whole new motor very soon.

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