Basically, Version 2.10, because level fuel bowls are awesome & stuff...

 

 

I'm assuming the have to be level through here?

 

I'm going with that yes, based off how they are set up on the bike & other peoples experience with them, it seems the way to go. Also, I pulled the fuel bowl off & had a look at the float, I'm no expert (as if that wasn't obvious), but it might not function properly the way it was. Overall horizontal length from cylinder head is the same as before. :)

Now with less duct tape & moar ugly MIG welds that need some lovin'.

 

 

Edit: Solved a small issue that had been bugging me: http://ramair-filters.co.uk/ms-sock-filters/ms-017-motorcycle-sock-filters.html

Edited September 4, 201313 yr by carbonboy

Duct tape looked better :P

 

 

My welds don't look any better though....

Edited September 4, 201313 yr by coln72

Duct tape looked better :P

 

I'll pay that one.

 

Sorry Toyota, I like mine better.

 

 

 

Clearances look good all around, any recommendations for vacuum line sizes? 6mm diameter enough to go from the runners to the distribution chamber, or should I go 8mm?

Some non-mechanical upgrades today, AE82 CS-X interior swapped in. The rear AE92 bucket-style bench seat was cool, but the backrests never fitted right (slightly different sizes to AE80/82)

 

 

Also installed an AE92 leather steering wheel, kind of doesn't look quite right but is so comfortable & easy to drive with, it's staying! The steering column cover plastics will need some grinding to fit, as the wheel fouls on them. The horn also didn't work at first, some slight bending of a contact pin solved that issue, but on the way home I found my self-cancelling indicators no longer self-cancel. To be looked at soon.

 

I reckon the fuel bowl seam should be level..

 

I hope you're going to have a quick dyno run, even a 40kph-100kph in 3rd with a stopwatch, to get 'before' and 'after' power figures!

 

This will be good....

The fuel bowl seam being level made perfect sense (not only from what you were saying a while back, but the factory bike setup), until yesterday when I took a closer look at a friends 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250. I'm not sure if the carbs on it are the same model/size as mine, but their seams are not level. The front wheels would have to be off the ground for them to be, then again a bike accelerates pretty hard, the angle could suit.... :hmm: Maybe there was something to the urban myth I came across that later models didn't have to be level, so easy to become confused when you know as little for certain as I do! :blinks:

 

Seeing as mine are 10 years older than his, sticking to the current plan.

 

I can do the 40-100 in third test quite easily, I have to warn you it will be slow! Did you mean a dyno run with the 2A-C? I hadn't planned to unless I can sneak into a club dyno-day, it is definitely on the agenda for tuning the 4A-G, getting AFR's right etc. Power figures I have to take with a grain of salt, as there's so many variables that can change that figure. Having said that, from other peoples experiences, around 75kw at the wheels for an N/A, FWD 16v Bigport seems a healthy figure. BT with the 2A-C ran an 18.65 second quarter-mile, I don't think high 15's are out of the question with the new setup & some semi-slicks. *Note to self: Take spare driveshafts with me*

 

Cheers, I just hope it'll run!

I had some 'touch up' welding to do to fill a few holes, I think I've gotten them all now. Also added some metal to allow for the drilling/tapping of holes for vacuum ports on the runners. The brushes in my angle grinder gave out about halfway through grinding the welds back, so the rest was shaped by hand & finished with a wire brush on a power drill.

 

 

Still some work to do on the inside, but could be worse.

 

A cheap & simple steering wheel upgrade for an AE8x is the leather steering wheel from an AE9x, the problem is, you lose your self-canceling indicators when you do. I found a way around that problem:

 

On an AE8x steering column under the wheel, you will find this. It is the mechanism that cancels the indicators when you turn the wheel. It has 2 pins on its end, at 180 degrees to each other. The brass pin is the contact pin for the horn, it also needs 'realignment'.

 

 

These pins lock into holes in the back of the steering wheel, on an AE8x the hole centre to hole centre is ~32mm, on an AE9x it's ~43mm. So all you need to do is measure & drill new holes in the AE9x wheel to suit, you will hit the metal towards the centre of the wheel, a grinding tip comes in handy here.

 

 

You will also need to stretch the spring slightly to keep it seated in the wheel.

 

 

Reassemble as you would normally & check that everything works, the plastic covers on the steering column also need some trimming to fit. Fitting an FX-GT instrument cluster surround is optional. ;)

 

Rods & pistons got a good cleaning today, scrubbed with a nylon brush & de-greaser, followed by some simmering in soapy water, followed by more de-greaser & scrubbing.

 

 

Soak, scrub, repeat. The finished product. Clean enough for you kickn5k? :P

 

looking good! I want that bucket for my garage! :D

Soak, scrub, repeat. The finished product. Clean enough for you kickn5k? :P

 

 

You cheated and bought new ones didn't you!!

 

How long until you assemble the bottom end?