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altezzaclub

How To Fit A Celica Diff To A Ke70

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While the driveshaft was away I tackled the panhard and the brakes. The easiest panhard solution is to cut the end off the Celcia one and slip a piece of pipe over it while in the car. Mark it and weld it. It needs to be 85mm longer I think it was, in a 150mm pipe

 

For $20 the welders gave me the piece of pipe that I cut to length and marked, and they welded it in 2minutes.

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$230 later I had a combination driveshaft delivered to my door! Note the smaller diameter of the KE70 UJ at the top. and the fat Celica driveshft with the end cut off. He made a collar to match them.

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With that in I had the whole thing done. I'd popped the drums off earlier and found that the leading shoe was worn most, so I swapped them around. I'll do a 'How-to' on rear brakes after this.

 

 

 

You can see the sway bar now sits at the back of its mount on the diff, the 8mm is just taken up nicely. That's a Celica aftermarket sway, so I've gone up two sizes now.

 

With the Celica springs the ride height was exactly the same as with stock KE70s, 610mm ground to wheel arch. Often I run cut stockies to drop the car to level, but it depends on how loaded I expect it to be.

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Edited by altezzaclub

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The final job was to fill it with a litre and a half of diff oil. This is the easiest way I've found.

 

So, brakes are squishy as I haven't bled them, but a drive today seemed fine! Next job, limited slip diff.......

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very cool!

 

its amazing the perpetual BS on the internet.

 

Yet when you actually have a go, all the BS is......BS!

 

I think id probably prefer to move the trailing arm brackets though, i reckon if you were to put some stiff bushes in that woudl create some dramas. (note: this could be internet BS as well!)

Edited by ke70dave

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I'll let you know in 12months Dave. The arms didn't seeem to notice the extra 12mm spread, its probably taken up in the play within the bolts.

 

2minutes bleeding the brakes and they're as good as ever. When I'm on a gravel road someday I'll find out which end locks up.

 

Its noticeably taller geared around town. WIth our 45deg angle parking it takes a litle more to climb up the road camber, and it cruises in 3rd at 50kph unless I remember to use 4th.

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Bahahaha loving your method of putting the oil in the diff, I actually lol'd. We've always got that Tom Thumb pump in the Woolshed, but when ingenuity is required... :)

 

Great write-up!

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Hey- you're not meant to have time to get on Rollaclub! Get back to work!

 

Propshaft balance isn't 100%. There's a resonance starts around 50kph to 60kph, not really a noise, just a vibration in air pressure, and it seems to vanish or dissappear into the general noise by 80kph. Some vibration in the outside mirror at higher speeds too, but overall its not much. I wondered if it was part of the motor working harder to haul the tall diff, but I'll chat to the driveshaft man about it.

 

I'm pretty sure the speedo under-reads, it was 5% over with the 4.3 diff, and we've changed that by 10%, so 95 on the speedo is probably 100kph now. I'll check it over the 5Km odo check on the way up next week.

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nice write up mate, i use a simular method to get diff oil in, but instead of a funnel i use the 1Ltr squeeze bottles with the nozzle that pulls out the end, they fit inside a garden hose, and you can squeeze the oil in faster, you just have to unscrew the lid every now and then to get some air back in the bottle haha.

 

Nice work mate :y:

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Update- I swapped the T-series diff into the gold car sometime during this year, it had a good (non-whiny) Borgy. That gave the blue car a 4.3 to run around town in, so its very sparkly.

 

The gold car got the 3.9 T-series for driving up to Walcha and back, needing the auto front half of the driveshaft it already had and the rear half of the modified tailshaft with its T-series coupling. The blue car kept its manual K50 front half and got a Borgy rear half from the gold car.

 

The vibration vanished from the blue car and appeared in the gold car, so its the diff or the rear half of the tailsheft. Yiu can swap driveshaft halves without upsetting the balance.

 

Then I put a new pinion seal in the 4.1 centre I scored from the Celica on the farm and fitted that. Didn't change the vibration so its in the rear driveshaft coupling. I figure the welding may not be exactly concentric, as the Celica driveshaft is a bigger diameter than the Ke70's.

 

I fitted a large circlip on the front of the rear driveshaft and left it a little loose. After driving up to the farm the vibration was bad at 60kph, so driving back down through Tamworth I turned the circlip around the driveshaft a bit and the vibration almost vanished! When we build a diff for the rally KE70 I will have this one rebalanced at the same time up in Tamworth.

 

Then I got interested in diff angles, wondering if those different mounts on the Celica diff tilted it too much in a KE70. I took a spirit level and a ruler, put the ruler on the diff flange and marked the concrete floor. Then I put the spirit level on the flange and made it vertical & marked the floor again. That way I had a right-angle triangle and could calculate the angle of the pinion face. Then I repeated it on the other KE70 sitting beside.

 

Turns out there is no difference within the accuracy I could measure.The Celica diff is 2deg and just under 40minutes, the Borgie is 2deg and just under 30minutes. Getting the spirit level dead vertcal is the hard part, the triangle is 220mm along the vertical and only 10mm across the base.

 

Both diffs pointing upwards, so the idea you have the pinion pointing down to compensate for horsepower climb obviously doean't apply to a KE70!! :laff:

 

Actually, just eyeballing the driveshafts suggest they run to the back at a faintly steeper angle than that, so it does move towards paralell if it ever manages diff climb!

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