SM Hunter Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Okay, yeah iv been doing some carbs on motorbikes i know how a overflow outlet works :) but i don't think its jammed since gas is commin out from both :) so its either supposed to be like this or I'm running to high pressure, I'm thinking for a start I'm going to add clear hoses into can and see how much is coming out when I'm driving, then if its WAY to much I'm running to much pressure, then i MAY be able to block them of and the carbs MAY not overflow.. but i think blocking them leads to failture.. so the best way would be to get a lower PSI pump / or a fuel regulator and a return line.. ill think about it for some days and research a bit about the carbs :) anyways made a throttle wire holder the red ones are the return lines, yellow one i don't know? anyone knows? and hooked up my tacho, i need some dubble sided tape , i don't want to put screws thourgh my steering column cover :) going to town with some friends tomorow so ill be buying transmition oil and anti freeze :) had a friend over the other day, what a beauty! we painted the rims white because they where black and rusty :) and yeah Altezzaclub its running 1 Stormberg SU carb ;) runs overrated! Edited February 2, 2015 by SM Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feral4K Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 On our 600 zxr in the kart the yellow one is a crankcase breather.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 Ahhh thanks alot! so i could either block it off or put the PCV down there and ditch the catch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) I found that a fuel return line helped a lot with maintaining a steady fuel pressure in my setup, despite having a low pressure pump. A FPR is also your friend, as these carbs generally don't like more than 2psi. Edit: Aren't the red circles in your photo the fuel bowl vent lines, so the bowls don't pressurise? If fuel's coming out of those, dare say the pressure's too high. Edited February 3, 2015 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted February 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Iv bought a Honda bike pump.. :) will se how that works :) It running great! both idle and rev! no bogging or anything :D i have a problem tho.. one of the choke brass tubes have snapped... so i need to block off the choke on cylinder number 1.. :) Jacked it up to change transmition oil testing the overflow... it goes halfway up the tubes .. here is the brass tube that have snapped... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feral4K Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 If the overflow goes halfway up those tubes pictured going into the coke bottle, you have a major float level problem!, thats way too much fuel to be excess, id be thinking too much fuel pressure or a sticking float valve in a couple of the carbs..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted February 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 juup, thats my guess aswell, hoping for it to be the fuel pump, iv got a Honda 600 pump in the mail some place in Asia right now :) anyways.. put my mid 80's mud & snow tires at the rear and took it for a spin.. the carbs shake so much that the throttle wire pops off so i made a bracket to fix them to the engine :) Ill never get tired of looking at the carbs test fitted my bumper with sport lights to make holes in the licence plate in the right place,i need to trim the plate a bit to fit 100%... iv got another problem aswell.. a smal oil leak at the sump.. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Fist, i got my drivers lisence 9. april , woho! Got hold of "new" engine from a ke30, got it for 1500 NOK- 250 AUD... i had a oil leak and i managed to snap a spark plug in hte threads so i think i have to take the had off.. soo here it is... all orginal 3k.. P.o said it only had 60k's on it but i don't thust him... my beauty... this wil go back in some day.. but if i get enough money for a 4age ill go that route instead.. Getting some help from a friend.. :) 20. april... REGO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 It's now safe to say the "new" engine is dead, i think a rod flew through the side of the block last night.. it has been knocking since the first start, the guy i bought it of only started it with a rusted exhaust so he did not hear it... :( i have found a new engine + gearbox for like 150$ so I'm not that angry, it was an experience blowing it up.. :) iv also talked to a guy selling a 4age from a ae86 with wire loom ecu gearbox etc.. for 2500$.. ill try to get it a bit cheaper but il see.. il atleast buy a new 3k first.. :) ill try to snap a few pics later today :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausca62 Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Big job going 4AGE but from what i have seen so far i'm sure you are up to the challenge. Good luck mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted April 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Thanks, there is a few things I'm worried about tho, like the tailshaft... what do you guys do with the tailshaft when putting a4age into a ke20.. i have a TA60 axle that fits the t50 box.. could i use that? or do i need the back end of a ke70 axle and the front of a ae86? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Don't worry about the driveshaft, its one of the simpler issues. You will end up with a whatever gearbox (T50?) and a whatever diff (T-series?) and all you need are suitable ends and the distance between them. The rest is just money. Over here the 4AGE uses the T50, so that is the front. The diff could be T-series or Borgwarner, and they have different flanges. We're fitting a J160 6-speed onto the 4AGE, so we will have an Altezza front and a T-series rear on the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 actually I'm planning to run the stock diff, i have a TA60 diff, driveshaft T50 gearbox laying arround... the engine already comes with a T50, TA60 driveshaft, KP61 engie mounts and a few engine crossmenmbers I'm worried that the ta60 diff is too wide... i have wheels that have both 4x114 and 4x110 so wheels whould be no problem if i swap the rear axle :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Hunter Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 This is going out! did not even take me an hour to take it out now, i know every nut and bolt... bonet is going off radiator out Oil press, water temp, coil cable, fuel line, clutch wire, earthing.. heater choke og throttle wire gearlever reversewires and speedometerwire gearboxoil, motoroil and gearboxmounts exhaustbolts 3 cables to the starter and 2 conectors to the alternator and enginemounts.. then its out my sump.. it has 2 of theese 6 hours drive tomorow to pick up a 150$ engine... :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skellington Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 All that wrenching looks like fun. I hope the "new" engine works out better for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.