Welding Diff Spring Mounts, Ke30 And Ta22 Diff

[bruce]

Going to put a TA22 diff into my KE30. Need to take the coil spring mounts and linkage brackets off the TA22 diff, cut off the KE30 leaf mounts, and then weld them onto the TA22 diff.

 

Anyone got any advice on how to go about it?

 

One of the main issues is welding the leaf mounts in the correct location, so they are evenly spaced apart, and also at the right angle so the tail shaft is in correct alignment. Anyone got any ideas of a jig.

 

Only done a little bit of welding, but I reckon I could achieve good clean welds with a bit of practice and finding the right amperage. I can get an arc welder, but not a mig welder. I'm thinking the arc welder could burn through the diff housing. Also the heat could cause the diff housing to warp?

 

[Banjo]

I wouldn't advise learning to weld, on diff spring seats, which are structually critical. Take it to an expert & get it done properly.

 

Cheers Banjo

[ke70dave]

yeah learn how to weld reasonably well first. An arc welder shouldn't burn through the housing if used correctly. In my limited experiend 3mm is still ok with a arc welder if you are careful. Also migs are pretty awful without gas. If you can get away with arc it's certainly better than a gas less mug.

[corollaart]

don't stick weld it .You will blow holes in it .Use a grinder with cutting wheel to remove the bulk,then grinding wheel then flapper disc.

 

Even better plasma,or oxy to remove the bulk of the mounts.

 

Remember not to much heat ,slowly slowly.

Edited September 3, 2013 by corollaart

[corollaart]

Its rural but works fine.

[parrot]

If your welds don't penetrate, there is a very good likelihood you will kill yourself when the welds let go.

 

Seriously, get it done professionally. It won't cost too much and you won't always wonder if it is going to let go

[bruce]

don't stick weld it .You will blow holes in it .Use a grinder with cutting wheel to remove the bulk,then grinding wheel then flapper disc.

 

Even better plasma,or oxy to remove the bulk of the mounts.

 

Remember not to much heat ,slowly slowly.

 

That looks like a good jig setup. That's what I was looking for. Looks like it could take a bit of time to make. What's the function of the two inner perches?

 

For piece of mind I reckon I'll get someone else to do the welding. But if I could do the preparation work and get a jig made, I can take it to someone and get it welded.

[ke70dave]

yeah you could just tack weld everything in place then take it somewhere to finish it off.

[corollaart]

The inner perches are for sway bar mounts.

 

The most important bit is the front piece (silver bit)you must

get it at the right angle.

 

You can see it slides in and out as the nose of the t series diff is longer than the original BW diff.

 

Its not that hard to make ,best result is to weld it to the bench while you put it together so nothing moves!!

 

I would get it all cleaned up ,make a jig then get a welder to weld them on ,if your not confident in doing it your self.

 

You,ll be surprised how thin the tube is.

 

rob

 

rob

[altezzaclub]

Nice jig Rob, you should make them for other people!

 

As Dave says, knock up something like that and tack the mounts on, then get someone to weld it up. A good MIG is much better than an old arc welder and it will be plenty strong enough.

[corollaart]

Thanks Keith but no thanks ,if i finished all the things i want to do i would have to live to 300 +.

 

I'm thinking that the diff shops add a solid tube thru the middle of diff .

 

To stop warping of the housing.But I'm only a mug punter.

 

The tube is so p#ss weak i can't see how they don't bend on our wonderful aussie roads.

 

rob rms :lovin:

[bruce]

The inner perches are for sway bar mounts.

 

The most important bit is the front piece (silver bit)you must

get it at the right angle.

 

You can see it slides in and out as the nose of the t series diff is longer than the original BW diff.

 

Its not that hard to make ,best result is to weld it to the bench while you put it together so nothing moves!!

 

I would get it all cleaned up ,make a jig then get a welder to weld them on ,if your not confident in doing it your self.

 

You,ll be surprised how thin the tube is.

 

rob

 

rob

 

What rear sway bar did you install, TA22 or KE55?

 

Did you find the nose of the diff to be pretty much horizontal or is there a little bit of an inclination?

[bruce]

I got a quote from a welder/fabricator, and it's going to be $300-$600. Most of the work is in the preparation, with making up the jig. He said he usually goes from leaf springs to coil spring mounts. Would be nice to keep the coil spring mounts but way too much work to fit into a KE30. Was thinking later on to install rear coilovers with one main leaf spring, like what people do in Datsuns: http://datsun1200.co...=Coilovers#Rear

Edited September 6, 2013 by bruce

[corollaart]

The sway bar is ke55 .

 

The diff mounts sit level, the nose of the diff sits slightly upward.

 

I used a dummy ke55 diff to get all spacing right as well as the angle of the pinion (very important bit).

 

You will also need to get your drive shaft redone with the t series flange.

 

don't even bother trying this,its a job for the pros.(cost 300)

 

rob

 

rob

[bruce]

The sway bar is ke55 .

 

The diff mounts sit level, the nose of the diff sits slightly upward.

 

I used a dummy ke55 diff to get all spacing right as well as the angle of the pinion (very important bit).

 

You will also need to get your drive shaft redone with the t series flange.

 

don't even bother trying this,its a job for the pros.(cost 300)

 

rob

 

rob

 

Yeah I noticed the T-series flange is a bit bigger. Thought they were compatible.

How much shorter did you find the drive shaft needed to be?

In a Corolla chassis service manual the drive shaft for the KE is 1178 mm and TE (6.7" diff) is 1130 mm.