crunk81us Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 So, taking the ke20 in a couple of sprints, need traction badly. All I want to know is, can I weld the diff centre with it still in the car. Mate says it can be done.. I'm dubious. Can I remove the rear plate on the borgy and weld it up?? Please no for and against welded diff arguments. Just a little tech support :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bogstock ke35 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 It's not ideal but I have done this in my car, just remove the back plate and drain all oil and clean it out as much as possible to stop the oil catching fire ( learnt the hard way) weld the spider gears together as much as possible then spin the wheels and do the other side, the main thing is to get as much of the slag and fragments out as possible because it will kill the bearings in no time. Again learnt the hard way haha. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Yes what Damon said ,i use to drain oil spray the shit out of it with super cheap degreaser . Turn welder up high and melt the shit out of it. Spray again with degreaser to remove any rubbish ,refill with oil hold flat. Certainly not a road car though. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Wasn't a borgy, but we also used to weld the gears to the diff carrier as well as to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Thanks heaps. It shall be done. Only needs to last a couple of events. I will sort out a more permanent solution later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 We find that filling the teeth with weld is a better handling solution than welding the teeth together. Fill a tooth gap with weld, turn the spider gears until a tooth hits that weld then fill the opposite one too, so you are smacking into two welds at once. This gives you some 'open diff' action in each direction, maybe 1/3 of a wheel turn, which allows the nose to start turning in and eliminates the constant understeer that welded diffs give. You might not be able to do this with the diff in its housing, we took it out. You can break it doing doughnuts on and off the tarmac on the same night your uncle welded it up for you, but the second one has lasted a dozen rallies without breaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Ah brings back memories lol. Yeah just make sure you clean it thoroughly before and after. Its amazing how easily oil will catch fire with the heat from a welder. In my case it was a mates 55 so it was all good lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 And careful where you put the earth lead, arcing across bearings is not going to help your cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy43 Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 We do the same as Altezza, weld the teeth so there is some give. If you weld out of the car make sure the pinion gear is not below where you are welding as the slag wind's up the the pinion bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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