Big G

Ke55 Hesitates At Take Off

22 posts in this topic

Hey Guys

I'm back again at the request of the princess. She has been cruising around in her 55 hardtop for a short while now and all is well in her kingdom of cool. However upon my arrival from work last week i was greeted by her scary scowl. I was soon berated about how badly her car was running. A quick sprint up the street and I have to say it was as ragged as my bank balance. It was coughing and barking struggling to idle and was way down on power all my fault apparently. So with her arms crossed and her foot tapping at an angry pace I popped the bonnet and looked for anything obvious. Nothing. I checked the plugs, the points had a small blast on the contacts which i filled flat and reinstalled. I found an emergency set of leads that i swapped out. Turned her over and away she went. Checked the timing a perfect 8 degrees. Went for a drive and she was back to normal. The only issue that is displeasing to the princess is when you take off from a standing start it hesitates not a great deal but enough to cause her concern. I have since changed the fuel filter as i found the element had come lose inside the housing and was doing nothing. The car is an auto and i was wondering could it be just a typical thing for the sluggish response or could it be something more sinister carby related bearing in mind I successfully rebuilt the carby only a short while ago with your help. So any advice would be greatly appreciated. Peace needs to be restored to the kingdom of cool

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Sir Graeme,

Thou shalt advise your Princess, that she shalt have respect for the KE (King Forever), as he has reigned for nearly 4 decades. and is allowed to slow down a bit in his olde age.However, after advising that, if the King is well fed, exercised regularly, and given regular "doctors" checkups, he should live forever, & be able to perform all the majestic duties.

 

His stuttering on take off could be ignition or carbeuration. I would suggest that you try & determine which one, which will make remedying his disposition much easier, and normalise the Princess's relation with her monarch.

 

Does the princess stamp on the accelerator when taking off ? Does the hesitancy stop if the revs are increased to say 2000RPM, before releasing the clutch ? (edit: forgot, it is an auto) Is the the hesitancy sharp, like an electrical miss, or a cough type hesitancy, like it is fuel related ? A good suggestion is to run the car at night in the pitch dark, & look for coronas, under the bonnet. With sudden loads, like on take off, electrical break down will happen at the weakest point, in the HT circuit. A common gremlin, is the inside of the dizzy cap, not necessarily detected by replacing the H.T. leads.

 

Come back with some comments on the above queries, & we'll see if we can't also assist the princess.

 

Cheers

 

Banjo

 

Long Live the KE !

Edited by Banjo
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Hey Banjo Thanks for the witty reply. The rolla is treated with kid gloves the princess has put all of her money and a bunch of mine as well as a lot of time and effort to get it to where it is now. She is aware of how it needs to be driven and is respectful of this. So there is no pedal to the metal. She cruises and enjoys the the many looks that it draws. It is hard to describe the fault. Probably bogging down would be a better description of the hesitancy to take off then it goes. It is only for like half a second which can seem like an eternity to a new driver with someone breathing down their neck at an intersection. When I had the dizzy cap off i checked the contacts and they were a bit oxidised so i gave them a hit with wet and dry. Like I said it is running well in every aspect just this annoying take off. It is baffling. I don t know if that gives you anymore to go. So let me know what you reckon.

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Graeme,

Take the air cleaner off, and look down the carby's venturi, & then open the butterfly quickly, & see if the accelerator jet is squirting fuel directly into the venturi, to enrich the mixture under acceleration.

The light leather washer on the accelerator pump is a common wear point in the Aisan carbies. Maybe time for a rebuild kit, which usually includes this piston washer. Available on ebay. http://www.ebay.com....6UAAOSwEzxYQ3nX

 

This is the piston/plunger I am referring to.

 

post-270-0-59003600-1481003313.jpg

 

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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Hey Banjo

I only just rebuilt the carby. Replaced everything that cam in the kit and thoroughly cleaned it all out of all the gravel that was in the fuel bowl and unblocked all the jets that were fouled by varnish. I will have a chance this arvo to pull the air cleaner off and see whats cooking. I will let you know if I come up with anything of interest.

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Rough and ready method. Swap number 2 and 3 plug leads, pull air cleaner off, hold foot flat and crank the engine. A couple of backfires through the carby should move any crap.

 

This used to work on my KE35 - was shown to me by an old school mechanic.

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I'd lean towards ignition. Just a word of warning, common problem I've found recently with the bosch branded points (made in mexico), are shite. Reason being (with my personal experience), once installed, the bakerlite part of the points wears down within 100kms of running causing timing to retard (causing the engine to run sluggish). Last bosch set I had in the car I had to adjust 4 times within 200kms until there was nothing left of the bakerlite runner. Hence now the fuelmiser brand is in, no dramas since. And also was a voltage drop running through the bosch points as opposed to the fuelmiser. Maybe something to look at??

 

Cheers!

Edited by Clapped out
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Which is why everyone should convert to "electronic points" like the Accuspark, or similar & you'll never have to change points again. Nothing moving, no pivots or rubbing block to wear. Very simple mod, which can be done in 30 minutes, with full instructions with the kit, available in Australia.

 

This is what it looks like when fitted in place of the existing points, in a KE Corolla dizzy 3K case.

 

post-270-0-19010500-1481091316_thumb.jpg

 

Best thing I ever did for my Rolla. Always stays in tune. Points are only good when brand new. After that, everyday the tune drops off a little more.

 

The Accuspark has built in ignitor, which will drive most coils except the very low impedance (ohm) ones. Alternatively, get the electronic Accuspark to drive an external ignitor, capable of driving the hi energy racing coils.

 

Or you can go the whole hog, like I did, and lock up the bob weighs in the base of the dizzy, for the centifugal advance, and use the dizzy electronic points as a trigger only, for a Jaycar programmable module, or similar, where you can set the advance curve to optimum performance for your engine.

 

post-270-0-37254300-1481091864_thumb.jpg

 

post-270-0-56929600-1481092001_thumb.jpg

 

Notice the vacuum actuator is gone, as load retardation, is done via vaccum line straight into the programmable controller. Just retained the "octane rating" thumb screw adjuster to fine set the initial idling advance spot on.

 

The way to go !

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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So I pulled the air cleaner cover off gave the throttle a squirt and a nice clean stream of fuel came out. So I started her let her warm up and checked out the idle jet was functioning the fuel was reasonably steady but was a little bubbly at times. So I gave it some throttle and the fuel stream was steady and direct. In regard to the electronic ignition are the complete electronic distributors on ebay any good seems like a whole lot less mucking around for a reasonable price considering I will probably need a new dizzy and rotor.

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These cheap new dizzies on ebay are replicas out of China, I guess. I've never used one, so can't really comment. I've asked on here a couple of times whether, anyone has bought one, & how they found them, but haven't seen a response. They look like 5K dizzies, so I'd be concerned about the advance curve. The genuine Denso ones on ebay are $ 748 ea.

 

The Accuspark/Powerspark type conversion is very simple. You can even do it, without taking the dizzy out of the engine.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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OK Guys time to get your thinking caps on. So the plot thickens I went through the ignition system checked this adjusted that made sure everything was as it should be and wouldn t you know it she ran like a dream. Idled contentedly pulled smoothly through the auto gear changes and the stutter was gone from the standing starts. Crisis averted, or so I thought. Now after some highway driving at 90 to a 100 kms/h when you back off to a much slower speed like going into a roundabout but not stopping completely when you accelerate coming out she coughs and sputters then she regathers her composure and away she goes. Any ideas on this new dilemma would be greatly appreciated as the princess is talkin demotion to stable hand and hate shoveling manure.

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Sounds like the timing is too retarded on de-acceleration. When you have done the timing, did you disconnect the vacuum advance and retard on the dizzy? Being auto, you should have the dual input diaphragm. Make sure both are disconnected to give a true reading,

 

cheers!

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Did you tighten the locking bolt on the distributor after you adjusted the timing? Maybe it's moved.

Just an idea.

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don't know what carbie you have, but that really does sound like a carburettion issue.

Does ur carbie have a power piston valve? not an accelerator pump but a 3rds jet for power which is vacuum piston controlled? If so, the air bleed for that could be blocked or the piston and walls itself could be worn, reducing pressure in the float bowl on acceleration restricting fuel supply to the jets., something no carby repair kit will give you.

I've experience this myself and the solution was to simply drill out the air bleed for the power piston circuit. turns out its not simple/.

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Hey Guys.

So I tracked down the issue to being a dodgey vacuum line after a New Years eve meltdown by the princess and me having to drive down the Gold Coast to pick her up at the witching hour. I had to drive the 55 home and it was a bit scary. I cable tied all but a few vacuum lines in position at the time and she has been running fine. Until Saturday night. It was the usual frantic phone call that I am accustomed to being my fault etc etc. So a quick check under the bonnet and i find the only 2 vacuum lines without a cable tie have come adrift. Easy fix. My question to you guys is are there any of these lines that we can do without. I have seen heaps of engine bay pics with next to none showing. Bare in mind it is an auto and it has 2 hoses coming from the dizzy. I am thinking the more things I can eliminate to go wrong the better. So if its possible and someone has a line diagram they could share I would be very grateful. Thanks in advance.

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