Western Revheads Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 hey everyone, I was looking online and found a really good priced 4age 20v blacktop out of a ae111 corolla, and I was wondering, if the engine needs to be RWD converted from FWD, I know it sound like a dumb question but the few FWD engines that I've seen or even owned, have had completely different designs than a RWD engine. I was gonna put it into a KE70 so RWD awesome 4 door thats lite, but I heard that I need to swap crankshafts and stuff around. So the REAL question I guess is does it need to be converted and how do I go about doing that? thanks. *photo of engine from advert* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corollaart Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 It will need to be converted,has been done many times . This guy has done it all and his parts are good. http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/4age-20v-rwd-conversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted February 2, 2017 Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Not much harder than a 4AGE, looking at SQs list. Plain mechanical engineering like making engine mounts is not hard, and the airbox & dizzy problems seem to have been sorted. The motor is still just a motor, same as fitting a 3SGE in there. The only swapping around will be the ancillaries like the dizzy and water parts on the back of the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Revheads Posted February 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 sweet guys thanks, good to know that its just moving ancillaries, awesome thanks :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 With the right combination of bits the 20v and gerbox will bolt into your ke70 and has been done many times, google around for detailed build threads to read. The big thing with 20V conversoins is what to do with the distributor that sticks out the back of the head. you can see the distributor in your photo, just to the left of the paper ticket. If you leave the distributor on you can't make it RWD as it will hit the firewall, unless you cut a big hole in the firewall and box it in. Which i saw done once on a track car, not really recommended on a road car (legalities, neatness etc) Most guys that do 20V conversions convert to an afermarket ecu, modifying the distributor to only have the crank angle sensor bit and removing all of the distributor bit (cap, rotor and leads) so that it sits nice and flush with end of of the head. Now start adding up the cost of an aftermarket ecu (original purchase price, loom and wiring modifications, distributor mods, individual coil on plug components, actual tuning), and the ECU bit is most likely going to cost you more than the rest of your conversion. this is why a GOOD RELIABLE 20V rwd conversion is not cheap. Some people have come up with ways to use the oem ecu with some trickery around the distributor to convert it to coil on plug. If you can understand how it works and get it to work then there might be some benefit cost wise. You will however have to keep the OEM air box and AFM, and the Airbox needs to be modded then as it points the wrong way for RWD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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