looking good man.

 

I like what you did with the stand... very unique!

Would make working on the car so much easier...

 

looks like you are smoothing out the engine bay?

Cheers!

 

Yeah, I'll probably fill in all the extra holes that arent used and smooth it out a little. :bash:

Nice jig for the car, Should make moving it around easy ;)

 

More pics of progress!!!

And here are those better pics I was talking about :yes:

 

 

 

Lookin good mick.

Very nice, just been catching up on the last few months.

 

Do you reckon the threaded rod is going to hold? i would be worried it might tip over. It is a great idea though.

 

Bit of a job with that rust, you seem a dab hand with a welder, had you considered fixing it yourself? I have got myself a MIG and joddler and am quite looking forward to fixing a few things......one day.

Do you reckon the threaded rod is going to hold? i would be worried it might tip over. It is a great idea though.

i was thinking the same thing, they are light shell but i thought a larger rod/thread would be needed. Especially if you plan on putting an extra weight on it how it is now (i.e. someone getting into the car to refit parts)

The threaded rod is pretty solid. The only reason its on the frame is so I can transport it to get it sandblasted and thats it.

 

Once its done, it then goes to get the rust repairs and paint done and once its back, it comes off the frame and onto the axle stands again.

 

The frame wont tip over, I've moved it around enough to know that its very stable and isnt going to tip onto one side, as the frame follows the outside dimensions of the car, not the width of the chassis rails. 8/

Murphy's law, if somethings gonna go wrong. It will. Just wait and see 8/

 

Lookin good man, any date set on sandblasting?

Bit of a job with that rust, you seem a dab hand with a welder, had you considered fixing it yourself? I have got myself a MIG and joddler and am quite looking forward to fixing a few things......one day.

 

I can't weld for shit haha. The old man is the one who can weld, but he can only arc weld and I wont get a decent weld quality with arc welding, so I'd rather leave it to a professional. 8/

Quick update!

 

I had a customer of mine at work pass on my number to a guy who does metal fab and rust repairs which requires NO filler what-so-ever, call me today.

 

Next weekend I'm getting him out to quote me up on all the repairs that need doing. I'm expecting his quote to be around $4000 to get it to where it needs to be before it even gets a coat of paint.

 

I'll let you all know what he quotes me next weekend!

Edited June 21, 200917 yr by Raven

I was told $800 max by my panel beater, I took it too him after a heap of trouble of him not being there only find out he had over doubled his original price to $1800. I was devastateed, but I need to get it done :bash:

 

And then its another $2000 minimum for the paint I want!!

 

Ahh well. Great build, looks good :D

 

Travis.

I was told $800 max by my panel beater, I took it too him after a heap of trouble of him not being there only find out he had over doubled his original price to $1800. I was devastateed, but I need to get it done :bash:

 

And then its another $2000 minimum for the paint I want!!

 

Ahh well. Great build, looks good :D

 

Travis.

 

This is by a private guy who will file finish the panels as well so there will be not one ounce of filler in the car.

 

This will also include fabricating new sections of the sill panels that have the huge rust holes.

 

My theory is, if you're doing a restoration, do it once and do it properly and don't cut corners because if you do, somewhere down the track its going to bite you on the arse and it will cost more in the long run.

 

I plan on keeping this car until I have a son (or daughter) to possibly pass it on to in 20-30 years time :)

This is by a private guy who will file finish the panels as well so there will be not one ounce of filler in the car.

 

This will also include fabricating new sections of the sill panels that have the huge rust holes.

 

My theory is, if you're doing a restoration, do it once and do it properly and don't cut corners because if you do, somewhere down the track its going to bite you on the arse and it will cost more in the long run.

 

I plan on keeping this car until I have a son (or daughter) to possibly pass it on to in 20-30 years time :)

 

This will be incredible when done. :)

I highly respect anyone who has the skill and time required to file finish such thin jap metal. (Mind you they are paid pretty well to do it).

 

Not a bad theory on projects, pity we don't always have the time and money for it!

So I had my panel guy come around and take a look at the car.

 

$50 an hour to do it, the front wiper panel between the windscreen and the bonnet will be unstitched and removed to access the rust underneath.

 

The corners will be made from scratch, the engine bay is going to be completely smoothed out for that show look and new sections will have to be made all over the car, predominantly the front and rear of the sill panels will required a heap of attention.

 

The wheel well is even going to be repaired properly too and I'm getting the flares fitted up as well throughout the process.

 

He's going to need the car for 9 months, but can't take it for another 4-6 weeks, so in 3 weeks time I'm going to get the car sandblasted and sodablasted in parts and then the panel work begins, with photo's being taken for the whole process by the guy himself to show exactly how bad it is.

 

Which means I'm going to end up with a heap of photos from the start to finish of the panel work :y: