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87' Twin Cam Ae82 Off Road Rally Project W/pics


BiGGy

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This is awsome!

 

Congrats, it goes to show that you don't need to spend a whole lot of money for grass roots racing.

 

Id love to enter my Celica for the same type of events and eventually get around to rallys etc.

 

They look like great fun.

 

Keep us up to date on how its going.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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This is awsome!

 

Congrats, it goes to show that you don't need to spend a whole lot of money for grass roots racing.

 

Id love to enter my Celica for the same type of events and eventually get around to rallys etc.

 

They look like great fun.

 

Keep us up to date on how its going.

 

 

Just an update while i have time.

 

took the extractors off the parts car, they are genie extractors.

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We removed the stock headers off the race car.

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Fit the news ones, after a wire brush and paint. We had to use the second length too to make the flanges fit up.

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While we were at it we removed the Cat converter.

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And replaced it with a straight through pipe, 2.5" to match the rest. Flared and clamped at one end, flange taken off the cat converter, cleaned up and welded.

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Working on a car at eye level hight is a godsend, don't think we would be able to get this far without the forklift, anyone thinking of doing a project car up, make sure you have a hoist of some kind.

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Rubber grommet supports had to be welded on as well. High tensile bolt replacements all round for heat resistance. I also noticed the fuel lines have lost there guards from scraping, and are getting very rusty in places. Need to do something about that.

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Started the head work. Removed the rocker covers, Cams and gears off the parts car. Our plan is to do this head up completely and simply replace it in the race car when we are done so that only one day is needed for the car to be out of action.

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We got referred to a CAM company in brissy that can reshimed and grind existing stock cams to race spec. We gave them a call and for $120 more they can make brand new ones up with better options performance wise, as well as adjustable ends. $620 for new cams.

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Took the head right off the spare car to start work on it.

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The spare car was mis firing in one cylinder when we got it. You can see the difference now, water is all through it and the edge of the piston head is not clean like the rest. The gasket is not broken which means it could be a valve problem.

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Removed the cam followers, these are all a thousandths of a mm difference in thickness, if you don't document these in pairs like they cam off, valves will open at different times and cause many problems later on.

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Layed out the order we took them off and packed safely for when we need them again.

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Removed the manifold and found a spacer plate with some butterflies hooked up to a vacuum guage. I think this is some sort of limiter at high rpm, but I'm not sure, never seen it before. If we don't need it, we will use it to fabricate a 45 degree ITB adapter.

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Got this bad boy off ebay for $200 delivered.

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Ready for a port and polish, we have lost our valve remover so we are going to drop it off at the head guy down the road to remove them and get him to acid bath it overnight at the same time. in the mean time we can only port/polish this end.

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We use a dye grinder with a cutting bit first to form the walls and shape/smooth it out. There are some casting imperfections we got out and shaved it out about 5mm larger.

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Made them as identical as possible, use one object as a clearance fit and made the rest to suit.

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The center divider was ground back thinned out and formed to a shaper point.

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Snap shot of me at a recent club test and tune. I got some good times to benchmark off. Over the 2 days I rolled 6 tires.

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Been slow at work so we have been smashing the car.

 

Quads arrived in good time.

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Injectors plate came with, we wont be needing this.

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One of the throttle bodies has a broken bolt hole, so we bilt it up with cast rods and redrilled.

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Started on the ITB manifold/adaptor plate. We measure up and plotted all holes for ITB plate.

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I transfered them to CAD.

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Started the hole layout on the mill. We are using 12mm aluminium plate.

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All small holes drilled and tapped to m6x1 thread. 8 of the 12 holes countersunk to 8.9mm - 4mm deep.

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Test fit one before we went further.

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Drilling the large flow holes. Started with a 40mm drill.

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Then counterbored 100 thou at a time.

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Milled some clearance slots for the tps, shamfer one corner also to clear a hole.

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Fits up perfect!

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We cut off the plate from the stock manifold. We will be using this plate for the block end.

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Bilt up with casting rods so we can cut the center dividers out.

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Face machine flat, welds shaved flush and flow holes match ported with the head.

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We milled the flow holes to fit these alli pipes we had in stock.

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Two lengths bent to 90deg.

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They are then centered and cut to give us 4x 45deg bends.

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Used a machined dolly to shape and flare the ends to match the oval head flow holes. This was just a test piece, we will do the rest tomorrow.

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The head came back from the head guy. Nice and clean from the acid bath ready to port & polish more.

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Inlet finished with 80 grit, we read up that this end is best left slightly ruffed instead of polished for better air/fuel mixing. The valve guides will be shaved down about 4mm so they don't stick out so much.

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Exhaust ports ported out a bit and finished with a 120grit wall.

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The combustion chamber took the longest, we wanted a mirror finish with all casting imperfections out. You cannot touch the valve seals whatsoever so we put the stock valves in to protect them.

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few of the boys from work wanted a go too.

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Finished product.

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Rocker covers acid dipped and painted. The lettering will be surfaced and polished.

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Started some FB work. Dash pods. Not finished yet, will finish tommorow anzac day b4 I start on the brew

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Big thanks to whoever made this site that helped guide us through the port and polish process.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/2341/pandp.htm

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That plate with the butterfly's in it is the TVIS plate, Boost's the torque up at low RPM.

 

btw nice build up so far.

 

yeah I know that now, we took it out. The massive update in the above 3 posts have been copy pasted from ae82forums.

 

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Edited by BiGGy
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  • 2 weeks later...

update:

 

18mm rear sway job arrived and installed, literately a 10 minute job.

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New front sway bar and suspension bushes.

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Control arms removed, old bushes removed (had to burn one out).

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wire brushed and painted

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New bushes pressed in.

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All bolted back up.

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The rims bought from bway.

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I have started my fiberglassing.

Here are some pods I made for the car. Checkout the full worklog here.

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Wired up, senders in.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We decided to start the fitment some of these power mods, so the car will be out of action for a bit. We also want to test fit the new lsd e58 so we can foresee any probs.

 

Pulling the donk out, unlinking all electronics, hoses, mounts etc etc etc

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Test fit the new manifold while we were at it. Fits nice.

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skid plate is very battered, we may replace it with a 5mm one.

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Chained up and pulled out slowly, on an angle so it would fit through.

 

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The e58 lines up perfect but there is another problem the starter motor is on the shaft side and the mounting holes for it on the bell housing are to far apart and the gearing doesnt line up, we got several other Toyota starter motors from the wrecking yard to test them out but none fit, we may add a mounting bracket or something we are still thinking.

 

We have found a solution to our shaft prob. We gave the gearbox to a local CV guy to see what he can do, the v6 camry (any model) cv splines bolts right up to the stub splines into the gearbox. I'm not sure about all the info dads sorting this one out. All the CV guy wants to know is the distance from hub to the camry spline flange to get the right length on a cut down axle. Looks hopeful (and cheap). The shaft sticking out in the pic below is the driver side (long end) spline sitting nicely into the lsd e58.

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The new high tensile valves, $400 for the set wahwahweewah!

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The quads take a bath. squeaky clean.

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Stainless steel elbows are going to bolt onto the quads, made some s/s plates to suit. This is how they will look but with big angled K&N filter ontop, When we install all this they should be pointing upwards or close to. With the cai scoop in the fiberglass bonnet they should have a nice effect.

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Still working on the bonnet, finished the plug now (below). Will cast the mold this weekend, and the positive replica the next weekend.

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We are unhappy with the final camber porting. We dug right in again and started molding it a bit better. Took the lip ridge out of every seal and formed a better curve down the wall. Havent finished yet.

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