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Ke16 Build


rockinrolla1967

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gday everyone,

this is my ke16 I semi rebuilt, painted etc. It's got a rebuilt 4k with 7ke fuel injection, crane cams electric distributor and coil, 5speed, tacho. We put it on the dyno last friday and had huge back fire type flutters out of the throttle body, since running the motor in over the last two weeks it hasn't been reving well at all, so i thought a tune would sought things out but the owner of the dyno seems to think a lobe on the cam has been chewed off. We measured the valve lift and it looks like my rebuild could of been a rip off, I asked for a tighe cam with .423 valve lift and we measured around .25. The cam comes out tomorrow for an inspection and measure.

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gday,

today i pulled the engine out, we checked the valve lift and three cylinders were .286 and 1 was all over the place, definately not the cam specs i asked for, cylinder number 1 has chewed a lobe off. i took the plate off that covers where the old mech fuel pump goes and could see where it was ground off.

 

i spent $2000 on the motor, i got the lot except a 3k head, 10.1 compression, full balance etc, when i rang the shop who recond the motor ( i'm doing it myself next time ) they didnt want to know me and said warranty was my problem to chase off the tighe cams.

so i talked to fair trading dept for advice and next thing i know there looking after the whole situation, i hope it works out, i let you know.

 

 

cool:

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the engine was returned to the builder today, the department of fair trading had a chat to him then rang me back and said there's no issue he's liable for the lot even though warranty ran out 4 weeks ago.

 

I'm tossing up between a tighe 140 with 37-71 duration and .488 lift or a number 150 with 40-71 and 474 lift, what do you guys know and think? remember i have efi, ive never played with carbys but apparently i can get away with a bigger cam with leaner air fuel mixture.

 

how does the cam get oil in a k engine?

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  • 5 months later...

hey guys,

since my last post, it took me 3months to get my replacement cam from tighe, apparently I'm not the first person in recent time to receive a cam not heat treated from tighe. after putting the engine in again i drove it for less than 100km's before it just stopped, after checking all the obvious stuff i realised it was cranking over real easy, so took the dizzy cap off, turned it over and the rotor didn't spin. i took the timing cover off and there was the timing gear off the cam, the bolt was never tightened and proceeded to rip the end off the cam.

i took the engine back AGAIN and a month later i have a camtech 609 in it, this isn't a really big cam but i can't get my idle to go under 1400rpm with a ritch mixture, i thought with fuel injection, elect dizzy, and big ignition all round it would be a pretty smooth motor but its real jerky, anyone else have the same problem?

it goes on the dyno next week so hopefully the tuners can make it a bit better

 

alex

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Alex,

 

Your story is an exact copy of what my Dad and I have gone through with our engine development. He had finished a 5K engne with a Tighe cam in it and on the dyno it lost about 4 of its lobes.

So pull down and rebuild with another replacement cam sent over.

Back to the dyno and again 2 lobes went on this one. My Dad was pulling his hair out as this was 2 weeks before Classic Adealide Rally with this new engine. I took the Cam down to a heat treatment company who checked the surface hardness of the lobes and they were to correct spec compared to a normal cam.

 

We ended up looking at the lubrication system, the solid lifters , the facing of the followers , the oil type......ect.

 

Now from all of our R & D and destroying 3 engines of different combinations we have come to the conclusion that it linked back to the running in oil. If you look on the web under Crane cams they will only warrantee their cams if they are run in with a special oil containing Zinc. This is coming from most mineral oils that are produced today (due to the heavy metal content) are taking out the Zinc alloys which are essential in the running in process. Older engines need this Zinc to bed in where as new engines with the new grades of materials don't need this.

 

You cannot use a synthetic oil or if you do need to run a zinc additive to aid in this bedding in.

 

As they say oils ain't oils.

 

Hope yours runs well as we went through hell with ours.

 

David McK

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i found why my car's running so bad tonight,

the fuel regulator is playing up, i can't start the car unless i take the vacuum hose off and pinch it until it starts.

if i don't do this i get hydraulic lock. now i have to try and find a regulator for a 7ke fuel rail, does anyone know if these are also found on domestic toyotas as well? i will take it to a parts store on monday and start tracking one down. the car runs alot better now but it really needs the dizzy curved and computer remapped.

 

cyas

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