Ok guys finally got off my arse and took the fuel tank out of my KE55 cause the fuel gauge ain't working, got the sender out and the little metal clip that holds the resister thing had slipped off and had a few scuff marks on the wire going through the resistor put the metal clip on the right way put it back in and it still wouldn't work,

 

What I want to know is if its worth going to the wreckers and getting a 2nd hand one or just buying a new one, (considering you can),

 

Anything else i should check?

 

Trent :(

Is it your fuel gauge only, or is it also your temp gauge??

Edited September 27, 200620 yr by JiP_01

Nah Jip my temp gauge is fine just the fuel gauge, i have already replaced the dash twice to be sure the gauge itself isn't faulty.

well i suppose it really depends on the price, if there is only a few $$ difference id always go for the new one. If it is only the fuel guage thats not working theres not much else to look for

How much does a fuel sender cost brand new? Do they still make them?

Ok small update I went to the wreckers got a overrated one guy said worked when got out of car, put in mine still won't work, then i checked to see if the sender plug was getting power by using a test light, no power...

 

So got a piece of wire and connected it directly to the gauge and still nothing?

 

I then stuck a piece of wire on the sender plug and earthed the other end on my door handle and my fuel gauge starts going up, put back in car still won't work?

 

I'am now thinking about getting my spare KE30 fuel tank and trying it?,

I even tried the tank in my KE30 and still wouldn't work,

 

What do you guys suggest doing next? Anything I've missed?

 

Cheers People,

 

Trent.. PS Bruce your best bet would be go ask your local toyota dealer for a genuine one or repco or somewhere like that for an aftermarket one?

After all of that and it still doesnt work id try and ask an auto elec or a mechanic to have a quick look for ya. :jamie:

Taking a fuel tank out of a KE30 sounds difficult. Try just swapping the KE30 with another KE30. :jamie:

It's a KE55 and the fuel tank takes about 15 minutes to take out

If you supply 12v's to the plug that goes onto the fuel sender, with ign on does the gauge move?

 

If so pull out the sender plug it in and earth the sender to the tank or body somewhere. Then move the sender and see if the gauge goes up.

 

If both of these don't work. If you have a multimeter with continuity tester, Run a wire from the plug(externally) up to the dash, then stick the two probes one one the wire(which is connected to the plug from the sender) to the corrosponding wire on the dash. If it beeps the wire is fine so you can rule that out.

I believe the 55 and 30 tanks are different. I think the 55's tank has the sender built in to the centre part(where the hoses connect) but the 30's tank has the sender on the drivers side. That could mean that a 30 sender may not work/work properly in a 55 tank as they are located in different spots. And vise versa.

hey guys I'm just courious some one in this topic said is ur fuel and temp gauge not working, and thats the trouble I'm having with my ke55 my fuel and temp gauge both work when they feel like it the temp gauge is more reliable to work than the fuel but I'm more conserned on how much fuel i have left as i have never had any heat prob with it, the temp gauge either works or dosent, where as the fuel gauge 90% of the time it don't work but occasionaly it will go up and show u how much fuel u have then it will drop and stay below empty...

 

 

can any one help me with some ideas as what i could be???

 

thanks guys

Do a search. This has been done many times, and the answer is in one of them if not all.

Edited December 2, 200619 yr by JiP_01

ok, heres how the mechanics do it

 

1. take the wire of the sender, earth it anywhere, senders work on neg charge if your guage moves, senders stuffed

 

2. if the guage doesnt move, earth the back of the guage, if it moves, you have a brake in the wireing or board on the back of the speedo

 

3. if it doesnt move when earthed, guage is stuffed

 

30 and 55 tanks are different but will fit, but i don't see much point in replacing a large container because you have an electrical problem, bit like replacing your motor because it needs an oil change, gets the job done but not needed and lots of work

 

(you can get the senders out through the parcel shelf depending on how hard it is to pull that out, if you have speakers and stuff sometimes its to much work)

Over time the resistor in the fuel sending unit wears out.

In the last picture there is a lever piece that moves along the resistor as the float moves up and down.

Over time, the coil of wire for the resistor wears out, and breaks.

For example, if there was a break in the middle of the resistor, the fuel gauge would only work if there was more than half a tank of fuel. If the tank was below half full, then the gauge would not work.

 

I went to the local toyota parts store, and they don't have new fuel sender units anymore. Have to go get a used one from the wreckers, or go for an aftermarket fuel gauge setup.

 

Or perhaps, if the thinkness (gauge) of the insulated wire for the resistor was known, and how many turns were needed to give the correct resistance, the resistor could be re-wired.