Teddy Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 wow, nice to see someone who tries new things. They 3VZ or 1MZ leads? Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 hmmm, I had to do some research to answer that question. I beleive it may of been a 2VZ-FE, admittedly I paid very little attention to what I grabbed them out of because I was just doing a test run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickZ Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 why would you run a Air flow meter (AFM) if your running a wolf ECU, Map would have better results and less restriction on the intake air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 good question, what I have now is a temporary modified 20V ECU with the original AFM. When I do put the wolf in I will use an airflow meter but the one out of an R31 Skyline. The reason I would do this is because of the quad throttles theres no vacuum signal past 30% throttle opening or so it would have a map/tps switched load metering. So a significant part of a time it is using purely TPS, however this is somewhat of a hit and miss affair and the mixture needs to be pureposefully more rich to compensate. What this means is a fractional loss in power but a decent increase in fuel use. I do not believe that an R31 Skyline airflow meter will pose any restriction and provide accurate fuel metering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickZ Posted February 12, 2008 Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 Good answer, I wasnt thinking of the quad throttles. Yes using map is a bit of a pain in the ass, My 20V is only just drivable on the street with the tunning it has, Mine is tunned with map but not TPS enrichment as the older Microtech didnt support it, it would rather be off throttle or full throttle. but then again you can get a good tunning with TPS and MAP combined, The blacktop 20V uses map. Adaptronic will use both also and there is a Blacktop map avaliable for download dyno tuned for map and TPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted February 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2008 I tottaly agree but I don't think anything will come even close to the result of a hot-wire meter. For me I want everything, good power and economy still. Also I spend atleast another 5 hours today doing head porting, I am really getting somewhere now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_ae82_white_rolla =D Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 i just read this whole thread, its awsome what you've done mate.. we need some more updates :) Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted May 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 thanks but its not going to happen for quite a while, I have been busy with house renovations and a garage construction. Also I have been focusing the tiny bit of left over time on my trike. However it will all work out because I will finally be able to have a garage setup the way I want it and with the tools I want. Also I am looking at buying another car again for a run around, I never replaced my last daily driver after my friend borrowed it and had a fatal accident in it. Anyway that nasty fact asside if I after all this time buy another daily I will finally be able to do some real work on my sprinter as I wont have to have it back working in one peice for the next day to drive to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted July 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2008 no big updates for a while because i have been working on my house and crap but I did take a week off work and change my engine. I had my spare engine dropped off to me, I took the head off, took it to bits, ported it, match-ported it, changed all the seals and gasket and put it back together. From here I put it in my car and drove it, pics: Engine out a kaizen dizzy cover fitted and my cooling gear swapped over, both were modified by counter-boring the holes to fit flush fitting bolts. new engine in My valve removal tool I made up, still a hard job for me. The result? it ran like a total dog, missfiring all over the place and lacking power everywhere. Four days later broken down on the side of the road I find out why and it was so obvious looking back, when the engine was swapped the alternator was also, and the whole time I was driving around with the alternator not working. Seems like my ignition system doesnt like working off 12V instead of 14V+ maybe due to me running dumb ignitors with an impedance matched coil to make up for it or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tas_ae71 Posted July 31, 2008 Report Share Posted July 31, 2008 is it a silver top or black top? oh and i love your home made tool sam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted July 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2008 silver, I would paint it silver again if I could get the same colour in a spray can. If you ask me it aint silver but a light metalic grey. Also yeah thanks for the compliment, wasnt hard to make and I would hate to think doing it any other way. I learnt my leason not to use the "proper" valve removing tool and use this with a G-clamp instead. I wouldnt of had to get another collet sent from new zeland had I known better before for my other engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted July 31, 2008 Report Share Posted July 31, 2008 Sure the battery had 12v at the time?, Could possibly have been a lower voltage.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted August 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2008 yeah it would of had 12V when I first drove it. I charged the battery with a self regulated charger so I know it would of been that. My ignition system needs the higher voltage of an alternator output to run right, and it was misfiring for as soon as I start driving it. I am guessing its the same for other cars too which is why drag racers run 15V batteries or 12 to 15V converters instead of running an alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted August 1, 2008 Report Share Posted August 1, 2008 As far as I am aware, Most stuff can normally run below 12v, Its when you get below 9 that you start having issues.. You can have a battery that reads 12v but the acid can still be pretty gay, Volt meter is not the best way to test a battery's condition, Hydrometer will tell you how well the battery is charged. To test it properly in theory you have to take the surface charge off the battery by loading it up to half the CCA rating of the battery for like 20 seconds and check it doesn't fall below 9V.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted August 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2008 (edited) I see what you mean however if I were to unplug the alternator sense or something like that to stop it working it would start mis-firing everywhere regardless of my battery state. But if I started the engine and then disconnected the battery completely and had the alternator working it would still run great. I believe my ignition system needs the extra volatge that the alternator outputs during normal operation because of a quirk of the DLI converter design suing the dumb ignitors, as in they don't control their own dwell like Toyota ones do. edit: I need to start tripple checking things I write when I get more tired, what I said didnt even make sense to me Edited August 1, 2008 by Sam_Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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