turbo_rolla

Yeah, 20% increase in capacity or power/torque it has to be looked at - got no problems with taking it over regency for them to check out, just don't want to pay $2000 for an engineer to do the same thing but put it on paper. Could always say i thought it was a 4AC and put a sticker on the engine to reflect the same thing ;) Will see what regency come back with, and will update on whatever they say :bash:

yeah, but i've read somewhere that even if its down with the engine number it's still void without an engineer's certificate or something from them saying its okay if you have a crash ;)

was going to start a new thread but saw this one so will post in here - was actually looking at that document yesterday! Looking to get my 4age KE70 engineered - have put the forms in to Transport SA (application form), and they'll apparently give me a list of what they require. Am hoping to be able to do it without engineering, but highly doubt this will be the case. If so, will be up for about $2k to get it engineered. Rang lots of places and they all say about that amount. Seems like alot considering its been a swap with all standard parts from a sprinter that bolt into the ke70 with no/little modification. So the question i wanted to put forward was, has anyone done a engine swap and needed to get engineering done (4age into a ke70 would be great), and if so, what did it cost you to get this done? It would pass engineering without a problem as its got JDM brakes etc, but $2k seems like alot of money to get a bit of paper telling me its safe when i already know this ;)

havent gone back out to look at the car yet, but might get into it one night after work. Thanks for the pic though! :jamie:

Cool, thanks for that! I had a look at the boot one and that doesnt look too bad like you said, just wanted to confirm. Never would've worked out the fuel cap one though! Will give them a try over the weekend hopefully! If i get it right i'll chuck up some pics! Thanks again :jamie:

Got a remote fuel cap and boot release setup that i've put into my CS ke70. Got the cables run to the back, just wanted to get a picture of how the little mechanism's are supposed to properly hook up to the fuel cap and boot release - don't really need any of the wire, just the actual mechanism! Thanks in advance! :jamie:

Hey tally, i've checked out those mirrors on numerous occassions :lolcry: still undecided on them, but the car I'm basing mine on (the "motorfix" keto - see pic below) has some on the fenders. At this stage not 100% sure, but depends what kind of look you wanna get out of the car. Main concern is them drawing a bit of attention to it, and someone deciding they want them :drgrim: Look like nice mirrors though - this is similar to how they look on the ke70 with a front like mine:

Yeah, off a t-18. Considered the "proper" JDM ones but i prefer the look of the t-18 ones over them i think ;)

Another update Quad headlight setup: From this: To this: And as of this afternoon, this: :lolcry: :fuzz: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: When i can be bothered, the rear bumper will go on to - not as easy as the front apparently, so will see how that goes. Slowly getting there!

Yeah, wheels are much closer to vertical now so its good. Really handles quite well now so I'm really happy :lolcry:

Wheel alignment done - best $49 i've spent on it in a while......noise is gone, and steering is sooooo much better than it has been (never actually did an aligment after i upgrades shocks & springs 12 months ago, then upgraded to ae86 gear recently). So I'm back in love with my car :P Thanks once more to those who helped!

Got a wheel alignment today.........best $49 i've spent on the car for quite some time. The brake noise is going and it handles like its on rails. Never actually got an alignment when i changed the shocks & springs about 12 months ago (before upgrading to ae86 gear recently), and its soooooo much better. :P

What he ^^^ said!!! Just rebuilt mine - got them stripped and i sprayed them black: I also didnt use that clip and havent had any problems (related to that) so far :P

:P Thanks matt! Nice to hear some positive feedback about the beast. The chrome bars have got a couple of little dints in them, but should be alright. Might give them a light tap and see if they'll come out at all. Main decision about them is whether to polish them up like mirrors, or do them a dull silver kind of look like the JDM one seems to have....looks like they'll come up alright if i wanna polish them, so could do either way. I reckon another 12 months and it should be to a nice standard that I'm happy with similar to the JDM one! :D

Neglected the thread for a while cause i've been spending more time working on my car than talking about it lately :D Quick update on what i've done recently: AE86 strut conversion - KYB excel-g in front to match those in the rear, and king springs. JDM AE86 brake upgrade - new rotors, fully rebuilt calipers etc - still ironing out some kinks (see full details here) remote boot and fuel cap mechanism in place, but not hooked up Still to come: picking up a pair of t-18 bumpers today (should be atleast!!!) installation of Cat convertor sitting in the shed Installation of in-tank fuel pickup sitting in the shed fender mirrors (still considering) Bolt on flares Possible respray/body work??? Basically its slowly on its way to looking like this (well, that's the aim): But for now, heres some other pics: JDM brake setup Got camber?? :( will come out a bit with wheel alignment which is yet to be done

Bit of an update on the whole brake thing: Rebuilt the calipers (was fun originally after i couldnt get the piston in cause it was getting too tight - alot of wriggling and trying to find less resistance before you commit to put it in, but then gets stuck, and you have to pop it out with the air gun - once you "pop" you can't stop :( ), and have got them on the car. Took it for the first drive the other day and there was this horrible grinding/rubbing sound from the front right side. Figured it was the pads not releasing from the disc enough (piston wasnt pushed alllll the way in, and they're pretty new pads by the look of it), as the backing plate was clear of the disc. So apart came the caliper again to be rebuilt again. Put it back on this morning, and went for a spin - steering is loose as a hooker (put ae86 suspension gear at the same time and yet to get an alignment), and there is still the rubbing/grinding sound, but its only occassionally. Ie, when you turn to the right it'll make a lil noise. BUT, it also seemed to get better the longer i drove. COuld this have anything to do with the pads perhaps (ie high temp bads or something - came with the kit, got no idea what they are). Anyway, will get a wheel alignment and see if that gets rid of some of the noises and go from there :D Pic for the fans: Got camber??? (will come out with alignment)

Sprayed the calipers this morning and got some grease, so hoping to have them on the car in a day or so.......

yeah, i've got the haynes and ae86 manuals so should be able to sort it out between myself and my mate. Will have a closer look at it tonight. Gotta decide what colour to spray the calipers first though - thinking either black or silver, but considered red. Most likely be black though i reckon :lol:

yeah, I'm glad that i got somebody who knew what they were doing to do it rather than trying to tap a thread myself and then find a bleeder valve. Like ya said, i'll now have confidence in the brakes when i go for them, cause that's something you don't want to be unsure of! Will get my mate to put the kit through it and put them back together as he knows what he's doing, so will hopefully have an update on their performance on the weekend :lol:

Got the brakes back from the place today: Cost $160 for 2x caliper rebuild kits, removing and replacing broken valve with a "repair kit", and disassembly and stripping of the calipers. So will get some paint on them, put the new kits through them and get them back together and should be set to go (SHOULD BE!!!).

yeah, the way I'm looking at it is its really only costing me $70 more (to get the bleeder valve fixed) to do it, and it has forced me to get the brakes reconditioned which is a good thing and money well spent like you said. WIll get my mate to actually put the rebuild kit through it (he's a mech), so should be good and will look nice and new once its done. Will get some pics up showing what they've done when i get them back on wednesday!

Rang a couple of places and got a price to fix the brakes - about $30 to "tap" a new thread in there. About $40-$50 to to a heli-coil and valve, and about $60-$70 to do a bleeder repair kit (apparently they clean it all out, put some kind of nut in there or something that the bleeder valve then screws into). So it'll cost maximum $70 to get that done, which although I'm not toooo pleased about, its cheaper than a new caliper. Also decided to get them to strip them down and give them a clean ready for a rebuild kit to go through them. Stripping will be $20 each, rebuild kit $24 each. So i'll be looking at about $150-$160 but will effectively have a nice fresh pair of JDM calipers. Have had to spend alot more than i expected (was expecting to be able to just machine the rotors i got by they were already @ minimum thickness - 17mm), but will basically have a new setup on the front so can't complain too much i guess! Thanks again to those who suggested solutions! :P

cool, thanks for that. Will make some enquiries today and see what i can come up with! :P

yeah, was thinking i should probably do a rekit for them as i was reading about the possibility of metal etc in them. Will have a look into it and see what i need to get and should either be able to do it myself, or get my mate to do it for me. Was gonna tap a new thread on the caliper today but couldnt bring myself to spend $40 on a cheap shitty tap & die set that i'd use once, so will maybe just take it somewhere and get them to do it properly??? Either that or buy a new caliper (Yay, more money!!!). Only concern is finding a bleeder valve that'll be big enough (its got a minimum 6mm hole in it, goes out to about 9mm-10mm at the start), so not quite sure what to do there as the best option. Think i'll have to find a "biggish" valve and then see if its possible to put it into the caliper via a tap. Its just annoying, cause something that should've been soooo simple has become a nightmare. Plus there was a major f$#karound to actually get the calipers in the first place :P

picked up a pack of "ezy outs" from the local parts shop. Managed to get the passenger side one out with them as i hadnt drilled that yet. Just enlarged the centre of the nipple a bit and it picked up the thread on the inside and out she came :P the one i'd had a shot at yesterday with the drill was different story though - had drilled out too much, so couldnt get a tight fit for the "ezy out" (any size), so ended up just drilling that one out (took quite a while.....). So ive got one good caliper i can put a new nipple/valve back in, and another one that i'll have to rethread or something and use a larger nipple/valve as its bigger than the original sizing now. Will hopefully get it sorted out and get it on the road to try them soon! thanks for your input guys! :)