turbo_rolla

Yeah, been neglecting the thread (and the car - been ages since i've driven it :) ), but with stuff getting done now i'll keep updating the thread! Should be at the point that i want it within about 2-3 months hopefully!

Thanks mate! Got a feeling you'll need engineering with the 20v in a ke55 (to make it legal atleast), as i only just squeezed the 96kw through on mine. Would give you a hand with the wiring, but a mate of a mates did mine for me - wont be too hard though if you get a pretty clean loom though! I was lucky as we only really had to work out where about 6 or 7 wires go, and wasnt too hard with all the wiring diagrams :S

Thought i'd put up an update cause I'm a bit bored at the moment :) Slooooooooowly getting there on the road to regency to make it legal. Got the fuel pump setup in and working, just gotta mount it properly now (was touching on the diff and shorting the fuse we installed in the drivers side kick panel when we ran the wiring for the fuel pump :)). Easy fixed though. Also got some details from regency re the standard heights etc and other requirements: Front squeezes in with about 8mm to spare, so will be alright on the kind springs (just gotta secure them in case they jack the vehicle cause the springs arent captive). COnfirmed i don't have to run my inner guards on the front, so they can come back off. That just leaves me with the following to do: get reverse lights working/hooked up swap rims to some skinny stockies Install Catalytic converter Weld a plate in the engine bay where the old clutch "bit" used to poke through Secure the pod filter in the engine bay Install a ULP fuel filler neck Thought i'd tidy up a couple of "little" rust patches that had been on there for a while to a few weekends ago. Got a screw driver to "rough up" the surface to put some treatment on it, and ended up with this: Went straight through :S WOOPS! So that'll have to be added to the "things to do" list. Looks like its been repaired before, so will try to do it properly this time and get it all sorted. Was going to have to paint the front guards where they've been flared, and now will have to paint the rust fix up, and also wanted to give the bonnet and boot a spray, so decided I'm just gonna run a couple of coats over the whole car while we're at it and get it looking all nice and new. Also considering a new "toy" to add to the old girl - diff is a little leaky, and my mate has been trying to convince me to do motorkana with him, so probably gonna grab one of these while I'm at it. Hmmmmm, cusco ;) 1.5 way will be the choice i think! So hopefully there's some more updates over the next few weeks or so! :yes:

wow, half of rollaclub is reading this thread as I'm posting at the moment - not that its a popular thread or anything. Looking good though! Need more pics than the engine bay :y: Rims look great! Will be good to see them on the car :hmm:

decided i needed to give the car a wash today so went for a drive to the carwash about 10 mins away. Washed it all up nice and then got some fuel - about 500m from home coming up my slight hill i noticed that i had no fuel pressure or anything and the car just rolled to a stop. Turned it off, then turned it over - all good and is turning over, but i can't hear the VL pump - so it appears somethings happened with the pump, which I'm guessing will either be the wiring or the pump itself has shit itself. Will have to jump under the car sometime soon and have a look. Also noticed the fuel gauge isnt working properly, so will have to drop the tank a bit again and make sure that connector is in place properly (hard to do given the small amount of wire with it and the fact you can only hook it up once the tank is basically in place). Will hopefully have it sorted soon - no leaks though so that was a good sign :hmm:

yeah, i doubt they'd do anything for the sound of the pumps either - they'd be more to insulate any vibrations at the mounting point i would imagine. I've got the pump hooked up in its new location, just need to mount it properly now. Borrowed a little pipe cutter tool and chopped the section after the chassis rail, and basically pulled that pipe that runs from the tank to that area out. So there's rubber hose running from the exit on the intank setup to the VL pump, then a small section of hose (gotta reduce it a bit more) from the outlet of the pump to the steel hose line. And it all runs, so happy with it. Its basically just hanging at the moment though, so have to mount it and also flare the pipe where the rubber line hooks up to it. Will do that over my mates pit though as i was tired of lying on my back :cool: Slowly getting there, and will chuck pics up once its all finished!

Not tooooooooo much to comment on re progress, but am slowly getting the fuel setup re-done - am relocating all of the junk that was in the boot with the surge tanks etc and just going to the intank lifter with external VL pump. Its all wired up and working, but have been trying to work out the best spot to put the vl pump. Decided I'm going to chop the metal line just after the chassis rail at the rear and mount it up in there as there wasnt enough room near the fuel tank to mount it without having hard bends in the hose or the pump on an angle. Hopefully get that sorted over this weekend. Then it'll be the catalytic convertor, standard springs put in the front, and other minor stuff. BUT, there will be a major step taken very shortly in moving towards my goal of "adelaide spec motorfix ke70" - hoping to get this part of the puzzle sorted out within a week or so. Stay tuned :cool:

so at the moment, as far as insulation goes, I'm tossing up between doing the insulation thing for the whole area under the carpet etc, or buying one of these: or From what i can see, these pumps are going to be about $40 each, but i've already got a bracket and rubber mounting like that (home made one). I'm thinking that i'd prefer the full sound deadener under the carpet as you'll still hear the whining sound from the pump with the bracket, but the sound deadener would most likely eliminate that. Had a look at jaycar and they would want about $150-$200 for me to get the equivilant of what I'm looking at getting from this other place (for $100), so will stick with the original mob i think!

Okay, might give that a shot first then - i've got a bracket for it that i used before and have got that rubbered up so it might do the job. Guess i'll find out after i mount it. Might give jaycar a call today and see what they want re $$$ :sob:

looks good - the inboot installs are good for the race look, but i was over it in a couple of weeks, plus the noises. I'm gonna also redo my sound deadening under the carpet with the new setup underneath just to try and reduce the in-cabin sound a bit in general - looking at this stuff here (Sound proofing) . $100 delivered for 2x 900x1500mm rolls - about 8mm thick, and each weighs about 4-5 kg, so would do the job i reckon, unless someone else has got any other suggestions?

yeah, will have someone there with me, but fully intending to flush the line of petrol before hand - whats the best thing to use? was gonna blow out whatever i could with a high pressure hose - will that be enough? Just for reference, this is what i was running prior to a couple of weekends ago: Was never comfortbale having all that in the boot, and the noise of the pickup was annoying :hmm:

yeah, I'm thinking that'll be the safer bet - its not that thick a pipe, so shouldnt be a problem! Got plenty of EFI rated hose and clamps so I'm happy to chop a section out, run the hoses and mount it somewhere securely :hmm:

S#!t, that's heaps fancy sam! Nice work, looks like it'd do the job nicely! Unfortunately i don't have the patience to slap something like that together :hmm: Rang transport SA today and spoke to one of the guys in the "Vehicle modification" section. I queried whether i could mount it just after the chassis rail, by chopping into the metal lines and mounting the pump in a kind of protective case near there. They said this would be fine as long as it wasnt anywhere "dangerous", which he didnt seem to think would be a problem. So i'll jump under the car on the weekend and see what its like. I think that'll be the way to go though as it'll be a bit easier and less fiddly :cool: just gotta make sure the lines are clear of petrol before i go at it with the grinder :hmm:

I had the surge tank and pump in the boot previously but because i've got to take it through regency to show it meets their "statement of requirements" and hence be legal, i need to move it out, which is why i've gone to the in-tank lifter pump AE70, turns out that the wiring had f$#ked up - while it was all lying on the ground it was fine, but as soon as there was some angle on it the pump didnt like it like you said. Ended up dropping the tank down again and re-did the wiring and all is good now (actually had the vl pump running into a bucket (the pre-pump in the tank wasnt engaging, but is now), so i know that's working. The problem is finding a spot under the car where its safe, keeps the pump horizontal, but also doesnt give any kinks in the hose. So that's why I'm chasing ideas on where to stick it under it :hmm: Am happy to use lots of hose if required, but would like to keep it close as possible to the tank

Converting my "surge tank" setup on my 4age ke70 to intank to get it through Regency here in SA. Have got a VL intank pickup feeding to a VL external pump. Have mounted the intank pump and done a test run without the tank etc mounted, and it ran fine. different story when i mounted it though given the bends etc in the hoses, as it coughed and spluttered and stalled. Question is, where have you guys mounted your exteral pump? i want to stay away from tight curves etc obviously, so guessing the area around where the tank mounts up isnt realistic? Or is there somewhere i can put it in there? Thanks in advance.

Not sure if they're metal compound pads on the car - will have to have a look again. Thanks for the heads up though! Still in the process of getting it all nice to take in and hopefully get the big thumbs up, but just taking my time and doing everything right.

What kind of k-series are we talking about? ke30, ke55, ke70??? If its a ke70 i can be of some assistance. Given the information i've been provided i'd say that your "easiest" way of getting a k-series 4age conversion through will be in a ke70. In relation to actual "engineering", i was told that it would be approx $2,000 to get it engineered - its about $350 for brake and lane change tests, $600 for torsion test, and $600 or there abouts for the report to be written up and everything finalised. So i'd allow atleast $1500-$2000 (not including the modifications you'll have to do to your car to get it to the engineering stage) if you go down the engineering path. I personally didnt want to pay $2k for someone to tell me my car is safe when i know it is (have done all the upgrades that are required). ANyway, here is a copy of some of the stuff i've posted up here: SA transportation laws thread Like i said ^ though, i basically filled in the application to modify form but also attached a letter clearly indicating the changes i had done to the car (JDM brakes, t-18 diff etc), and making sure to point out that it was basically a BOLT IN conversion, with little/no customisation required. So its now just a matter of getting the car up to scratch (ie back to stock apart from the engine conversion) and making sure all of the little things work (demisters, lights, horn etc etc etc). Hopefully that is of some assistance. Will hopefully have the car ready in the next couple of months so will be able to update on the progress then :yes: Good luck!

Statement of requirements came in the mail today (for my KE70 JDM 4age swap), so thought i'd post up some of it as promised: "This statement of requirements which expires on 29 Feb 2009, relates only to the vehicle described hereon and is not to be taken as a precedent. Based upon the data supplied by you the modification(s) proposed to be carried out to the above vehicle (1983 ke70), namely: 1. the fitting of a Toyota 4age 4 clyinder EFI engine 2. The fitting of Toyota AE86 234mmx12.5mm disc brakes to the front axle 3. The fitting of a Toyota T-18 (TE72) rear differential incorporating 228.6mmx54mm drum brakes to the rear axle will be acceptable to this office subject to the following conditions: 1 INSPECTION That upon completion of the work, you are required to present this vehicle for inspection. If this SOR stipulates an engineering report is to be obtained that it is available (along those lines). A new application form must be completed if modifications are not completed by the expiry date on this form. 2. work is carried out exactly as specified to accepted automotive engineering and trade practices 3. the vehicle meets all other appropriate requirements of the RTA and Regulations 4. that the engine fitted is tested with an exhaust gas analyser at recommended idle speed and the attached "Vehicle Emission Test report" form is completed and supplied to the inspector at the time of inspection. 5. That the exhaust system emits not more than 2.5% carbon monoxide and 250 parts per million of hydrocarbons at engine idle speed 6. that the evaporative emission control devices are fitted and operational 7. That the engine is not modified to increase the power and/or torque of the standard 4age 8. That the noise emitted from the exhaust is in accordance with Vehicle Standards 9. THat the engine is fitted with the original manufacturer's injection system, injectors and engine management system (note - at the time of inspection, the ecu must be accessible for inspection) 10. that the front wheel track shall not exceed 1346mm 11. that the rear wheel track shall not exceed 1361mm 12. That the brake master cylinder and rear calipers are compatible with the disc/drum combination 13. That the correct brake balance front/rear is achieved 14. NOTE - following a road test further alterations to the braking system may be required 15. That an inspection is undertaken by the Vehicle identification section of transport SA....... This form MUST be presented to the inspecting officer. So bascially, the main things from all of that is the exhaust can't be too loud (less than 90dB, it must pass an emmissions test, the carbon canister must be hooked up, track not increased too much, and brake master cylinder compatible with the disc/drum combination. Only queries i have is regarding the emmissions test and master cylinder: SHOULD a 4age that is completely standard except for a 2" exhaust with extractors and pod filter, running stock ecu etc pass an emissions test? and I'm guessing the standard ke70 brake booster wouldnt be classed as "compatible" for the disc/drum combination, meaning i'd probably have to get a AE86 one? Thanks in advance for any guidance on the above couple of points. Got alot of work to do, but will get it done. Thought the letter said it expires on 29/2/08, so was happy when i read it again cause even with the engine already in, it would've been a struggle to get the rest of it done :y:

Well its a JDM bigport so its got 96kw, SO, technically that'd be a 10.4% increase in power. They're either not too concerned about the 0.4, or think its an ADM bigport (although i stated clearly on the form it is JDM). Either way, i thought they only took into account motors that were available locally, but i guess now. Just looking forward to getting the statement of requirements so i can tell everyone what they will be looking for in the future :) Most definately glad to be holding onto it though! Just gotta get all of the other stuff they'll check up to order as they'll no doubt do a full inspection :(

Thanks teddy - i agree that the bumpers would've been awesome in your shed, but i think they're even more awesome on my car :) Looking forward to tidying it up so its all schmick for the inspection - just gotta get some time, but should be on the road legally within about a month i reckon :(

Yeah, i thought that they only took into account models that were available locally, but maybe thats just for when you update just your engine number??? Who knows, but will see what the letter says when i get it early next week. I'm just waiting for something to happen and they say "oh, actually, it will have to be engineered" :) Adelaide Spec Motorfix KE70 on the way now baby yeah :(

Yeah, most definately a BIG NO on the sale of the old girl now. Gonna enjoy it now without having to worry about having an accident and not being covered. Again though, will beleive it when i see it in writing early next week. Dunno if i found a "loop hole" or not LRS, but i just put it in a way that basically explained how "simple" the conversion was so to speak. Plus i think the guy that got my "folder" was pretty good too! Will be bringing most of the rest of the car back to close to stock (maybe some 14x6.5 tyres anda few other things. Gotta do the following over the next few weeks or so: get reverse lights working (think the plug that connects to the output on the gearbox is gone/stuffed) get rear demister working fix doors so light doesnt glow when you push against them on the inside slap some 14x6.5 rims (or even stock ones) on there to replace the 14x7 that JUST sit inside the guards fill, primer and paint the front guards where they were flared possibly put some standard height springs in the front cause the king low springs i've got arent captive (cable tied) slap either a smaller muffler or stock exhaust on it so its not too loud (might drop a bit with the cat converter - will see) fit the intank fuel pump and plug the holes in the boot where the existing lines go through (probably do some new carpet too) Think that's about it, but there will no doubt be other things that will come to mind when I'm playing around with it. Not in a huge rush though cause all the stuff i do will make the car better anyway, so will do what i can when i can :)

A few days ago i had decided that i was going to sell the beast because i didnt want to have to go through the massive expense of getting it engineered to make it all legal. i put in an "application to modify" form on monday to Transport SA and figured it'd be knocked back. Put forward what i thought was a pretty good case and didnt sound like a young hoon who wanted to make his car as quick as possible to impress the chicks......gave them a ring today to see what the progress was (decided i was going to sell it cause i didnt wanna pay the $$$$ to engineer it, and was gonna go look at an AE102 corolla tomorrow - i know :)). They'd finished the application and the guy let me know the verdict over the phone: NO ENGINEERING REQUIRED* :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :sob: * will beleive it when i see it in writing though :( He said that he'd basically used the specs of a JDM KE70/TE71 that came with a 2gteu (???) engine that had 86kw - compared to that, the 4age is only a 10% increase in power, so i think they used that in addition to the fact i've done all the "bolt in" options and brake & diff upgrades to decide that it'd be fine. They're sending out the "statement of requirements" next week, but it'll basically just have to go over the pits now to get approved. I cannot express how f$#Ken stoked i am with this! I was walking down the mall after work on the phone and almost fell over when he said it didnt need to be engineered cause i was resigned to a negative response from them :) If you ask nicely i might post the list of requirements and the reasoning etc for future 4age into ke70 kids :sob: WATCH THIS SPACE - more mods to come now :yes:

i put in an "application to modify" form on monday to Transport SA and figured it'd be knocked back. Put forward what i thought was a pretty good case and didnt sound like a young hoon who wanted to make his car as quick as possible to impress the chicks......gave them a ring today to see what the progress was (decided i was going to sell it cause i didnt wanna pay the $$$$ to engineer it, and was gonna go look at an AE102 corolla tomorrow - i know :)). They'd finished the application and the guy let me know the verdict over the phone: NO ENGINEERING REQUIRED* :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :sob: * will beleive it when i see it in writing though :( He said that he'd basically used the specs of a JDM KE70/TE71 that came with a 2gteu (???) engine that had 86kw - compared to that, the 4age is only a 10% increase in power, so i think they used that in addition to the fact i've done all the "bolt in" options and brake & diff upgrades to decide that it'd be fine. They're sending out the "statement of requirements" next week, but it'll basically just have to go over the pits now to get approved. I cannot express how f$#Ken stoked i am with this! I was walking down the mall after work on the phone and almost fell over when he said it didnt need to be engineered cause i was resigned to a negative response from them :) If you ask nicely i might post the list of requirements and the reasoning etc for future 4age into ke70 kids :sob:

Thanks Tom. thats the thing - some cop on the road may not have an idea about the car, but the people at regency will know that its not standard. Purely and simply my only concern is like you said - hitting a fancy bmw or something where injuries are involved, cause then that turns into tens of thousands, instead of $2k. Just not sure if i want to put that money into the car though as its taken enough money already. driven it as is for about 12 months without any dramas what so ever, but not really comfortable taking the risk any more. i really don't drift it, so thinking about just getting a little ae82 twinky or something and either selling the rolla as is if i could get the price i want, or parting all the good stuff out ;) Should have an answer from SA transport next week so will wait to see what is decided!