turbo_rolla

just went to my local "parts shop" and picked up a 5 piece "screw extractor set", so will see if its able to do the job. I actually drilled a bit of a hole already into the RHS caliper bolt to try and get it out, so there's enough support there to drill in. Will give it a crack now. Thanks for the advice!

Alright, thanks for that guys. Definately don't wanna be stuffing around with the brakes though, so wanna get it sorted. I'm hoping that its just a matter of the bleeder nipples being seized up in there, and once they're out there wont be any problems, but will see. Will see what i can organise. Thanks

Hey guys, have been putting my new JDM ae86 brake setup into my ke70 and all was going well until i went to bleed the brakes. Tried undoing the bleeder valve on one of the calipers, it was pretty tight, then it just snapped off, leaving the thread still in the caliper (where it screws in). Tried WD40 on the next one, but this seemed to soften it more and it snapped too :P I'm guessing they'd been sitting around in japan for a while and siezed or something....So, I'm now stuck with a brake system full of air that i can't bleed from the front. So, what I'm after are either some othe options to bleed it (can i do it from the rear? - t-18 rear end), or an option to get whats left of the thread out of the calipers (drill out until most the thread is gone????). Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks :)

Due to the overwhelming interest this thread has created, i thought i'd update all with the happy ending! :y: Had a look over the AE86 manual, and found at page AC-29 the following: I remembered seeing this little knob when i was checking out the wiring, and thought about it but decided it couldnt be what was wrong. Anyway, was reading this page about 30 minutes ago, so went out to the car to try it out. Turned car on, ran aircon, and it slowly died off as it had been. Twisted the knob (clockwise i think, even though it says counter-clockwise in the book) to increase the RPM cut-off, and the compressor came back on. Went for a spin around the block and it stayed on. Also adjusted my thermo fan so that it comes on fairly cool to draw some more air through the condensor, but will have to do another fan on the condensor also i think (or 1x 16" with a bit of an enclosure between the condensor & radiator). So probably didnt have to do that re-wiring i did, but all is good now! :P So, it would appear that the following may be concluded: If you do an engine conversion, and your airconditioner cuts out at idle, its because this little screw needs adjusting. It can be found on the "a/c amplifier (the a/c amplifier is actually a cpu card of sort, enclosed in the small plastic box with the knob and plug on top), and will give you nice cool air again! :) :dance: :dance: :yes: :yes: :yes: :dance: :dance: :dance:

bit of an update, despite the lack of interest :D Traced the wiring from the actual a/c switch in the cabin, part of which went back to the amplifier. The wire coming out in the engine bay was black with white, so located that (indicated on diagram below in green). Chopped the black/white wire before the connector (3pin) shown on the diagram, and wired it directly to the magnetic clutch wire (with 10A in line fuse). TUrned it on, and hey presto, magnetic clutch engages and cold air comes through :D Joined up all the wires properly (had only twisted them together as i didnt think it'd work! :y:). Tried it again, and it worked still. for a while, then coughed and spluttered and eventually died? :D was resigned to the fact that it is just f$#ked, and put everything back together. Thought i'd reset the positive terminal on the battery just to see if that made any difference, and tried again - back on she goes :hmm: Gave it some revs, and the compresser engaged again. So i got to thinking that it needed some RPM to keep it going. Went for a drive around the block and nothing again? Got back, switched it off, then on again, and gave it some revs and it engaged once more. When i let the rpm drop off back to idle it died, but then went back on as soon as it got some more RPM. So, basically the question is, is there anything in the system that i need to hook up to let the ECU recognise the a/c is on and keep the revs up (maybe the a/c amplifier wire on the ecu harness??), as I'm guessing it needs a certain RPM to keep it going? Guessing this is why it worked when i started the car (ie high idle while cold), but then stopped after it had warmed up. Again, any assistance in the matter would be appreciated!

alright, had a fiddle around with it with my mate this arvo and we ended up running a wire from the battery to the a/c plug, and it ran, which was a good sign. So, there's something f$#ked up between the button that turns the a/c on, and the compressor. So going to look at it a bit more tomorrow. May just have to wire a new switch in, but will see!

just realised this should be in "car electrical", so could mods please move there? Thanks

Alright, had another look over my haynes book this morning (page 12-3) and it indicated that the "air conditioner relay" was in the relay block near the battery. Checked this, and it only looks like there's a "main relay", a "headlight" relay and a few fuses, no aircon relay (on the inside of this cover it mentioned something about an "optional" a/c relay). Checked the fuses in the cabin and couldnt find anything, so I'm no-where near being closer to having cool air? Am i able to test it to see if it works by hooking it up directly to the power source? (ie battery). Getting to the stage that it might go to an auto elec, but any help in the meantime would be appreciated (ie a photo of your relay block near the battery if you have a/c in your ke70). Thanks :D

Hey guys, did a 4age conversion on my ke70 at the end of last year and finally got around to getting the aircon redone (new pipes, gas etc - had factory aircon prior to conversion that worked fine). Spoke to the guy who did it and he said that they tried it after it was finished and it worked fine (car running, then a/c turned on). They had to turn the car off, and after they restarted it they couldnt get it to go back on. They said they COULD look into it, but suggested it might be an auto elec job. They said they looked at the fuses in the kick panel but nothing appeared wrong there. So basically: * swithced it on first time, and it worked * turned car off * tried to switch on again, didnt work Is it likely this could just be a fuse or relay related to the compressor? Had a look at the wiring diagram, and it looks like there is an "inline" 10A fuse for the a/c, but can't work out where this would be? Am going to have a closer look tomorrow, but any help would be appreciated! Also, should i hook up the "a/c amplifier" part of the 4age ecu now its back up and "running"?

Been a while since i posted, so thought i'd chuck an update up. The quad headlight conversion is basically finished now, with the grill having been modified and the lights mounted properly so they look a bit neater, as the pic shows below. Pretty happy with the result. Have also got a whiteline adjustable panhard rod in it now, and finally got around to mounting up the AL25 Tercel rear swaybar (think they are 17mm, so its a nice upgrade over standard) to the t-18 diff. Actually worked well that the t-18 diff didnt have any swaybar brackets as we just chopped the old ones off the old diff and welded them on where they needed to be on the t-18 diff. Great to get rid of the boatlike handling though, and it now flicks the ass out without much effort and the 4age powering along :D Also did some general maintenance like replacing the drivers side window regulator, so i now have a window that winds all the way up now which is good, and a bit of rp7 on the inside of the door mechanisms to free them up a bit! So its feeling less boganish now! Still gotta get the catalytic converter and intank fuel setup in, but soon enough! Also looking into a AE86 JDM front brake upgrade soonish so that i can consider the "engineering" route at some stage in the near future. Just gotta find some ae86 struts (with hubs) to do it! :)

Yeah, i was of the understanding the calipers were slightly different cause of the extra width on the JDM rotors. PM'd re struts though AndroOo :P

yeah, trying to source some ADM struts - just had a look and even the standard ADM ones are 234mmx38mm, compared to ke70 218mmx30mm, so it'd be some upgrade atleast until JDM setup is purchased :P

Found an answer: AE86 backing plates wont bolt onto ke70 struts :P ADM & JDM AE86 backing plates are the same ;) Back onto yahoo japan to source a full strut setup i guess! :yes:

Hey guys, looking to purchase a JDM brake setup off ae86dc, but wanted to confirm a couple of points if possible: 1. will AE86 brake backing plates (ie the plate that bolts to the strut, and the caliper then bolts to) bolt on to a ke70 strut 2. are ADM AE86 backing plates the same as JDM backing plates? Did some searches but didnt come up with anything too concrete. Thanks in advance :P

id buy one if they released them over here. The 1.5L engine wouldnt be a huge worry, being about 88kw or something from what's been said. Sure its probably not as tough as a 4age, but how many people slap ADM 86kw engines in their rollas now? Definately like the red with black style from a couple up the best though! Hopefully its a) released and b) makes aussie shores :o

i also rang Rory to get a rough idea on pricing of getting a 4age in a ke70 engineered today and he gave me the following rough prices: would need bigger brakes, so would then need brake fade test - $375 Torsion Test - $850 Lane change test - $375 Hire of A.I.R for lane change test - $440/car Report $350 So that's just under $2,400 to get my car complied - then you've got cost of brakes etc on top of that!!! :D For cars our age and value (the engine conversion cost me more than the car!), i just can't justify it. Sure, when its engineered its legal, but $2,500???? Looks like the way to go if you want a 4age in a corolla is a sprinter or maybe get away with an ae71, as you wont need engineering (as it was an "option" in the ae86) Also rang regency "technical experts" or something, and they said they look at the capacity increase, but mostly the power increase over standard. So looks like I'm just gonna do the brake upgrade and try and stay out of prangs :evil:

all sorted now so its all good! the way the resistor looked though i was glad i replaced it cause it would've had to have been done eventually. Could've been the resistor all along though and i just pulled the wire off the solder when i was fiddling around? Either way, its working so thats the main thing! thanks for your help! :evil:

Okie dokie, last post in the thread for me i think. I've pulled the control panel for the fan apart and got in behind it and found the source of the problem. turned the fan on and it worked - held the little switch for the fan speed in tight and it worked, let go and it didnt??? ;) Anyway, turns out one of the wires coming into the rear of that switch has come away from the solder, SO, am off to micks now to solder that f$#ker up and have my fan back! Spent $50 on stuff i probably didnt need (in hindsight :)), but that's now things i wont have to replace later on! Thankyou to all who have offered advice and assistance! :)

ended up getting the blower motor ($25) from a wrecker. Hooked it up, mounted it all back in place and hit the fan switch. nothing on 1, 2 or 3, but then goes nuts on 4 :) then goes off, then on again, then off. if i hold the fan switch down it stays on, so this now makes me think it might be a contact problem on the switches. so will try and take that panel off (tried the other night to no avail :)) and clean them up and see how we go. its blowing atleast now, so that's alright! Will see how we go ;)

:) ;) :( another update. put new resistor in the slot and put the fan back together and plugged in all relevant plugs - turned key in ignition and then hit the fan switch expecting to hear it running.............nothing :no2: So, the joy has gone to disappointment pretty quickly :) Could the issue be that i fiddled with part of the blower motor when i initially took it apart not knowing what i needed to replace (see red arrow on pic)? I took the "cover" off the following and as a result, i think the components inside it might not be where they're supposed to be? Is there any way to test this motor without hooking the whole thing up to see if it works (ie make up a plug and run some power through it off a battery??) Tempted to go to a wrecker and pay the $40 to get a complete blower setup now, but thought i'd put something up here before i did :hmm:

bit of an update - went to the wrecker yesterday and picked up a new resistor ($25 ;)), and this morning ripped out the blower unit and pulled out said resistor as advised by justin: Left side is the "new" one, and the right side is how a burnt out resistor should look :( Gonna slap the new one in there and see how she goes! (just gotta remember how it all goes back togehter :hmm: :) ). Almost got my fan back!!!!! :)

Thanks heaps for that justin! Will get onto that tomorrow :yes: thanks for putting the post in the right area also! :y: can't wait to get it sorted so i can start driving my car again (havent been driving it to work as the windows are all frosted and its difficult to see :yes: ). Cheers again! :hmm:

yeah, thought it could be something like that but because it isnt working on any of the settings now I'm sussing out the resistor first. have got the dash surrounding off though so will suss that out too because just before it died it wouldnt work on 1-3 but would on 4? :yes: Thanks!

okay, went searching for the fan resistor today and eventually found it (actually rang toyota on a price and they told me where it was located - bottom of the heater box held in by 2 screws). So, tried to get the resistor out but couldnt get just that out, and then spent 45 minutes taking the bottom section of the heater box off. This is what i ended up with: Took the silver top off and all the bushings etc are in it, so I'm guessing that is the actual resistor? Toyota quoted $88 (can prob get discount through aunty who works there), but it'd take 3 weeks to get it in. Was thinking though, should i actually test the resistor to see if that's the problem? (ie hook up a couple of wires to it off a battery or something and see if she spins???). Would be pissed to buy a new one and find out that wasnt the problem? Thoughts? :yes: Also, would it be worth going to u-pull-it or something and grabbing a second hand one instead? depends how much they'd want for it i guess? Thanks! :yes:

yeah, still looks a bit granny spec, but thats cool. don't really want it to scream for too much attention :cool: :) Got a few more little plans for it though which will make it a bit less granny spec, but all in good time. The valance had to be cut down quite a bit to get the lights in. Pretty rough job at the moment, but will touch it all up soon. There's probably only about 2-3mm left (if that) on the little lip that pokes up if ya know what i mean. :P