Sam_Q

My car is back and running on the new Wolf ECU and its increadable. Oddly enough it feels like the top end is just increased a little but I know I has gone up heaps, the reason being is that the mid range power is now out of sight. The power curve is increadibly linear and because of this there is less of a sudden power rush giving the feeling of a big power hit. Either way the revs go up pretty quick and its great, the final power at the wheels: 101kw!! They said a stock VL turbo gets 95kw on their dyno. I will post a graph soon enough. Now the weird part: It makes that 101kw in two seperate parts of the power curve, 6100RPM and 8200RPM. There is a little power dip beween them so its quite strange. Now I know 20V engines are well known to not follow intake theories in practice but I found my primary intake resonance is at 6000RPM which might explain it. I am going to do some experimenting and see what happens. Also even though I put a reluctance converter in my system I am having problems with the Wolf reading the stock crank angle sensor. This sometimes causes the engine to make it feel like it has a gentle rev cut at around 7000 RPM sometimes. It ends up showing up as a noise fault on my hand controller.

that would be really interesting to see that. What compression ratio are you going to go for? On my side I get my car back tomorrow and then I will see what its like with and without the E10 seeing it would now be tuned for it. Also I should pull the head off my old 20v soon and check it out. I did the 40,000km or so on almost completely E10 and not a whole lot else, would be interesting to see how much ash is in there and anything else.

I know its only a small thing but right now i am getting my 20v tuned for e10 98 octane fuel. I will do some runs with normal 98 octane fuel and see if theres muc of a power difference

well I did a comparasin between the early and 20v blocks I have and the 20v block does have some machinign in that area, if this is what you need I don't know. However from what I can tell your problem is solved with some time and a trusty grinder. So I say get the 4afe, see if it fits and grind the block till it does if theres any issues. Your car should run really well with that engine too; decent torque, better fuel economy (in theory) and a reasonable power upgrade. I think you should do it

only the 20v.... I had a good look to see if I could make a version to suit my 7age head (later 4afe) and theres a few big problems: the cam cover would have to be cut into and the front cover would have to be cut but this is trivial, the real issue is that there is nothing for me to bolt the base plate to. There is an M10 threaded hole strangley vacant on the 20v head combined with an M6 threaded hole that makes for a pretty easy bolted postition. On the FE head theres pretty much crap all and I would have to make some seriously difficult brackets to make it work.

hehehehe I like your sly edit well I will likely get my car back early next week and I am hyped, I sure hope it will go as well as I would like it to

you can say that after I test it! because right now I don't know if its working yet, its complete I just need to bolt it to the engine and see if it falls off after 10,000km. I have no idea how to work with vibrations and for all I know the fatigue will kill the bolts.

well its been a while and I havent been able to do much work because of dedicating myself to work on my house and garage. In any other spare time I have been making cooling parts for people and working on a dizzy relocation kit. Heres my prototype: However in preparation for my first track day ever I did do some basics: - I changed the diff center + outer bearings + axle seals - fitted slotted DBA rotors - changed my rear anti-roll bar as a temporary patch up job untill I make some rear coil-overs up - Fitted this shiftlight: That was all good till yesterday when my DLI converted decided to break down again and I decided I had enough. I looked for every Wolf ECU related part I could find and put it all in one place. I modified my airbox to house a temp sensor and after all that dropped off my car at a workshop in Dandenong to get it happening. This should be interesting

thats interesting, where is this block cutout located? I have a spare stuffed 20v engine and a rusted bigport block to compare with this. You could potentially get the block machined

can you show a pic?

theres one particular model of 4afe thats very simular to that of the 7afe, that one will fit without too much of a hastle, probably even with all the 7afe electrics. "Holden" Novas had them too

no, it may be possible to rechip a toyota ecu but I can't see it happening

could you please explain this? "block cutout issue"

looks straight as, any plans for it?

nice car, so whats the auto scene like over there?

well if you look at this dodgy diagram I have below you will see that the intake face is at a right angle to the head. but with this pic I nicked off billzillas site of the 20v head hte intake face (far left) is machined on an angle to compensate for the port angle: I might have to do a diagram after this if I can't explain it

how are you going to adapt that intake manifold? you have to be carefully with the intake port angles, even though the 20v and the FE head have a very simular upright port angle the 20v head has the intake face machined so that theres less angle change between the manifold and the intake port angle. What this means is that when adapted the 20v manifold will need to be facing much more upright on the FE head than what it would on the 20v head. Confused? well I can do a drawing if you like

if you like I can sell you half of my stock 4age valve spring set or half of my 4age trd set. The reason why half is because I will only be upgrading the intake.

with the exception of the cable tie battery clamp I like it

you fit the 4age pistons as well, that solves that problem.

oops I made a typo, I meant a +10 to +20offset, otherwise that would be one hell of a rolled lip!

just roll that lip on on the inside of the gaurd and you will be fine with the right offset. Try a +20 to +10 wheel and you will have room to spare

yeah fair enough, I have no idea how you managed to find such an immaculate corolla, I wish I had it! although I don't like the aftermarket windows

looks neat, does it have a 20v like your username suggests?

interestingly enough the cranks weigh the same and the blacktop pistons are heavier. It does make me wonder how much of a difference the spool rods would make seeing they are significantly lighter than both the stock 20v parts. Sharpie, where they tested on an engine dyno? its quite odd to have such a varience between the two when theres only meant to be 2kw.