Sam_Q

what steel thing

very interesting findings, good to hear numbers put to what you where telling me. I can't see hotspot building up in just a few minutes

well you could drill a 3mm or so hole through it, that will get you that tiny bit of flow enough to probably avoid hotspots

well if you buy parts from me on not I will still do my best to help you out, now which one did you want help specifically with the 16v or the 20v and what parts? thanks Luke, I also like the look of the yager kit, I do wonder what effect not having a bypass would have though.

unfinished website: s-86.com almost all of it is bolt on, you do need to glue/weld a part to the water pump if you want don't want an external thermostat, if you do its too easy. now of course it varies heaps but i have seen blacktops go for double that silvertops go for. For that extra money you could get a set of cams and I know which one would be doing the ass kicking then. I guess if you buy a set of trumpets, run some socks without any airbox and use an aftermarket ecu then its pretty much a bolt together job.

converting a 16v to rwd drive is pretty easy; chop and swap the inlet for the manifold, push a spigot bearing into the crank and bolt the rest of the parts on. As for the 20v thats much more involved, I can supply you with the parts to convert the cooling system to RWD. I suggest you get a silvertop though as the price difference to the blacktop is usually massive but the power difference is quite minimal indeed.

crap I was hoping I wasnt right

yeah fits, some people have reported that one of the bolts through the mounts needs some convincing/filing to make it work but I didnt personally have this problem. Also you will lose about 20mm of height with your different seats

Justin when that was tried where the primary pipe lengths the same between the 4-2-1s and the 4-1s? also keep i mind that every engine behaves different, like the example I gave earlier with the 3sge engine earlier. Either way it would of been pretty interesting to see the results. I forgot to mention I know of two people who have tried going from 4-1s to 4-2-1s and they picked up a stack of power in the mid range. I want to see this for myself and I have a set of futisubo extractors that I will try out and compare to my own 4-2-1 pipes.

KEI069: nice info, did you look at link I posted?

KEI069: yep I completely disagree there was a performance workshop manager that had a 3sge engine that I spoke to a long while back that tried everything and they made the most power everywhere with a 4-2-1. Toda themselves quote a 3% top end gain with their 4-1 but at a massive 15% loss in the mid compared to their 4-2-1 set they sell. For lengths look here and all the links on the page. http://www.my-acoustic.com/Car/intake_exha...ust/exhaust.htm The basic answer is the longest pipes you can fit. I if I ever get anough motivation (maybe never) will make some pipes with 750mm primaries, 425 secondadries and have my cat just after the flex pipe.

you can run a heater no problem at all with a cover of the original dizzy base though

I was thinking along the lines of something had come unstuck and now is lodged into the center of the piston, hence no sound. Its a long shot though

like I said earlier the diff ratio wont be the limiting factor in the top speed if the revs arnt being maxed out. Remember that in some cars top speed is achieved in fourth gear not fifth,

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but I will take my guesses at it being internal engine failure or a foreign body. I can't see it being the later as it would not get past the supercharger? but hey I could of overlooked something simple which will make me look quite the fool.

it would have to go down like whole depth of the combustion chamber and the dish of the piston, so I think we can rule the head and the spark plug out of things unless almost all the thread is gone in the head to the point of having a big enough hole for not only the widest part of the plug to fit down but also the socket driving it, but even in this crazy scenerio a spacer wouldnt of worked as it has. I have to say this is quite the brain teaser.

thats interesting, although in the case of a 4agze it would be part of the top ring land/crown because the crown isnt raised in the center only the edges of the piston is. However this is only on the big port... so Jason is this a bigport or a smallport? detonation damage in theory could knock out a peice of the ring land and get jammed in the lowest part of the piston which is the center afterall

well if it was revs limiting the top speed then yes the auto one would be better as they are 3.7:1 or something yes? but its not the top speed so without knowing the power curve of your engine I can't say. You may well have a higher top speed.

just my personal opinion but you wont see anything, you see the diatance from the piston to the head in any stock 4ag (assuming it is) is between 1.15 and 1.2mm, so therfore the piston will always head the head well before the plug. I have to admit the reason I want to see a pic of the spark plug is to see if its detination damage not impact damage. Please don't take it personally Jason

I would to say never to start this thing again til its pulled down. I am guessing its already a lost cause

missed it in the tittle. The spark plug is a long way from the top of the piston in this engine, sounds like something is majorly wrong here.

that being the case then chuck it in as it should help

all your gears will be closer together which means you can keep your engine in the rev range much better and close the big chasm between 2nd and 3rd gear a bit. The catch is your revs will sit on 3300RPM at 100km/h. By the way 4.3:1 diffs are very hard to come by

show us a pic of the plug, this doesnt sound right at all also what engine?

if you don't mind me asking what do the Yager front outlet pipes sell for? also what do you think the effects of not having a bypass in the system are?