Sam_Q

thanks travis, 4ac is 6 bolt as said, and also as said its crap because its not a fully counter-weighted or forged. I am guessing its 4af and neither one is good. It sure as hell isnt a 7A crank or block I can tell you that. I say use it up to 7000RPM or pull it apart and see whats going on. Maybe its a perfect excuse for a 7afe bottom end if thats your thing.

if its not headroom then maybe a steering wheel spacer and spacing your seat back would do the trick

hi guys I have just finished machining something up that was suprisingly hard to do. It's a coilpack adapter plate that bolts to the valley of the 20v head in 3 places and then lets either the yaris/late echo or the early echo coilpacks to be fitted. If there is any interest I might get some more made up with a C&C mill. They are a full bolt on job and fit exactly right. I would like to hear back from people if they think such a product would be wanted by anyone if the price was ok, or if anyone had an suggestions. Apologies for the crap photos. The yaris coil is on the left and the early echo coil is on the right. They are in the actual position where they are used with this plate. admins, please let me know if I breaking some rules here.

looking good, I personally would take off the damn FWD engine mount though

can someone tell me how a piazza motor can be a twin cam 2 litre with a turbo and intercooler to only end up with 104kw?

if you can tollerate it some of the single piece race seats are very thin from the base to the inside-middle. That with some low profile seat rails and its about as low as your going to get it.

well I have seen in a magazine of a 4agze conversion before. It would be a fairly straightforward swap. You want an atmo engine yes?

well I am interested, whens the old engine come out? oh and talk to an engineer before you do anything

if you can describe the exact steps you went though to set the timing, something doesnt sound right

not worthless, someone in the future may wonder if this is possible, do a search and find out whats involved instead of asking again.

yeah I know its FWD but it doesnt matter really if all he wants to do is chop an ear off and put in on the rwd box.

those gear reduction starters they are off an ae93 or later yes? if so I suggest something a bit different. Those starters are not that easy to come by and are somewhat sought after. I suggest you sell them and buy something else instead. If you went that way you would get a reaosnable price, I think I saw the last one go for $70 on ebay but it was a while ago and my memory might be bad. The reason I say this is because by memory the only difference between these and the much more common gear reduction type fitted to the 5sfe engines in the celicas/camry's is the orientation of the mounting holes. So not only would of get some money back but you would end up with a starter thats easy to replace. As for your question as far as I know all 4a and 7a engines have the same distance between mounting points as each other. That means the rwd types like what you have now and the FWD ones. I suggest you look at the type fitted to the ae82 corolla as it has the "ears" on both sides of the bellhousing so you have a choice, really common too. As luke said show some pics and also welcome to the forum Luke: while your point is very valid he may have not have the luxury or space as we do and his pipes may be very close to the starter. That said though I would of thought sneaking a heatshield in there and a ceramic coating woudl tottaly fix it.

apart from what I said above, no

a 20v would be quite cost effective

the dome on the pistons might get pretty close to the valves. To find out if its doable you would need to have the valves full open on the 20v head, place it on the block without a gasket and then turn over my hand to see if there is contact

either thats a matter of opinion or you have driven engines with a worse setup than mine. I find my engine and a friends have stacks of low down power. Did the 20's you drove have a good tune with an aftermarket ecu?

time to get a mix of detergent and water with a large brush, cover evrything. Start with the seal between the tyre and rim and the valve of course

hey heres that part I was talking about, bolts to the back of the water pump:

my dizzy relocation jigger? I havent even tried it

well nothing big if at all unless its colapsed, the best bet is to get your whole system done at once, its pretty easy for a car like yours

he needs a good slapping, you will only get very mild changes from an exhuast on that engine

with the right manifold and jetting I don't see why not

what bottom radiator hose did you use for that? also we should put this in the 20v rwd thread thats a sticky

for road or track? now its assuming its for the ae93 in your signiture Road: remove air-con lighter wheels composite bonnet composite tailgate spripped interior sound deadening pulled out one peice race bucket seats race: all the above and below composite doors or stripped doors removed dash and supports have just a single drivers seat remove all tools and spare wheel remove power steering? polycarbonate windows then it gets crazy with things like tubular rear suspenion supports and the like

yeah just 3 bolts as you say, and all those vacuum lines that go super stiff over time. I say if it doubt hit it!