Sam_Q

thanks guys and your both right, it is a heap of fun usually but I had to admit I hated the fact that after all the years without I had a carby in my hands again and a malfunctioning one at that. I do have a genuine Dell'orto 18mm for it though, I would of prefered a 20mm but a deal come up. This should in theory help my problems a lot and make it a fraction less scary off the line. It more than makes up for it when I would take it for a ride and come back wide eyed and with my hands shaking badly. seabiscuit I would love to see some of your projects as they sound like a blast as well. You don't want to see it right now though, I had no choice but to leave it in the raid for a while untill I managed to shift it to its new home, when I finish rebuilding the engine I plan on tottaly fixing the frame up and making a new deck plate. It will be back and with some paint this time.

tiny update; my scooter is now on my website http://s-86.com/s-scooter.html

well this should be interesting..

welcome to the forum Nath, strange that I havent heard of people doing this front end conversion ever before. So your getting an upgrade carb for your engine?

EDIT: my new webapge is here s-86.com

wow overrated, I think I can pretty safely assume your not going to roll the gaurds with a mallet on this one eh?

yes its dodgy and pretty rough but as you said the price is right. I have learnt that in the AE/KE community something thats basic and cheap is usually more wanted than something nicely made but a bit pricey. Rolliac: I don't sell a dizzy relocation kit, I made one and it was too much of a hastle. Add to this the fact that the standard 20v ecu really is crap in my eyes and I am not too motivated to make more. I know this goes against what i said above though. As for the rest I can supply you with just about everything you will need. Just shoot me a PM or something and I can explain what I offer, or ask on here I don't mind either way.

I forgot to add the left hand side outlet bolt is not in place and the right side stud would need to be wound out and replace with something longer which I will likely supply

a bit of an update I decided it would be worthwhile to make a top outlet that also has a thermostat in it. It's not what I would use personally but I make whatever is wanted. I admit this is crude but very cheap: This is my prototype however I have a pile of final version plates just about ready. All it is is an adapter plate, it uses a non bypass corolla thermostat and a 4ac inlet pipe with one hole drilled out out to 8mm from its original 6.5mm. I am thinking a price of $40 each adapter plate. What do you guys honestly think? Resourceful or just a pile of stinking crap? I also am in the process of machining up some exhuast side alterntor mounts that hold the pivot for the alterntor inline with the top of the sump, ie: seriously low. Seeing I now officially have my own buisness I would like to hear what people want made? what do you guys think there should be in the marketplace?

thanks Matt, just a bit of a mention I now also do top water outlets with a thermostat. Its very crude but effective, I will do a post on that other thread. Kermit, PM me for any parts needs you have

need almost a whole 4age in parts to do it. Theres heaps out there in stacks of threads on this

neat, sounds like a bit of work but it sounds worth it. Now why would something like a W55 need a longer spigot at all with the 2S bellhousing? Isnt the 2S more or less the same block holes as the 3s beams?

dumb question but whats the jig for? to knock it off evenly?

can we have this moved to the tech section?

for a while I wanted to do something about this nasty alternator mount I made up years ago: and this is what I came up with: I did consider making a few of these up but I won't till I have a design thats a bit more practical.

well it has been much too long since my last post. I have since started my own business in making parts, fabrication and general mechanical work. My car doesnt get a whole lot of attention but I did fit it with some parts that where concept ideas. Here is the main one: I wanted to fit these to my engine: Yaris coilpacks. So I started with this plate pictured with the holes drilled now all machined up: Test fit of the two different compatable coils: I made it suit two types because I was and still am interested in making a batch of these up. A pic of these in my engine bay soon.

Luke what people feel is quick is pretty relative. Most people think my car hauls arse, I think it's reasonable. Axentrik might be happy with the power of something atmo. I agree with your comments about it being a nice package though. Now Axentrik you may need to go to a 280 degree exhaust cam to get 110kw, but that depends on the dyno. Go to the right (wrong?) dyno with a stock 20v thats been tuned and you will see well over that. The right grind of 272 cams will work just fine with VVT and works well. For a gasket the 0.8mm trd is cheap, easy and proven. With your compression raised to 11:1 with it its more than enough unless your running serious cams. As a bonus your engine remains a non interference type, trust me this I know without a doubt. If you need some tips on your conversion or conversion parts then let us know.

wow looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. Once done thought it should be a nice package. Have you checked out the 3sge conversion thread on ae86dc?

on your engine its not too bad to get to, most people ignore these things till they stop working. You can get it serviced but I am unsure of the cost.

the valves in a F series head are very recessed, I am not 100% but I would be extremely confident it would be a non interference engine

looks pretty neat, any plans?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_TR_engine I am guessing this is where you picked your figured from though

you sir are a legend, they better not be rusting out there!

when you take it apart take some pics on what you find.

yes it would not be so free revving from what people tell me. You would also need to reduce your max revs. I am a high rev and power high in the revs sort of guy, so I stay with a 1.6L bottom end. Interesting info on that boss, I will have to look into that. A stock silvertop isnt an interference engine. I can confirm this without a doubt because I had a key in my timing gear decide to make an exit at 8500RPM. I was running a 0.8mm gasket at the time too. The blacktop is a very different story though, I do believe I have managed to have valve to piston contact just by turning one of the cams over cold, but I havent confirmed it for sure.