Sam_Q

I don't know about the fitment of the buick V6, not my personal choice but unlike some other people in this forum I acknowledge its not my car and hence it's not my choice to make. I still think the biggest time issue is the rear end. Here is my suggestion: - Go find a stock car with the donor diff in it: get yourself a digital angle gauge and measure the angles of the top and bottom bars, ignore the pan-hard, I will explain why later. - Have your car as it is now with the ride height that you want on a flat surface that you will do all your work on. - You will need to be able to have something like blocks of wood cut so it goes off the ground to the sub-frame to hold it to that exact ride height, jack stands won't do unless your unusually lucky to get the exact height you need with one of their settings. Then when your ready jack the car up, strip the whole rear end, take the fuel tank out and chop out the sheet metal around the sub-frame in the rear section. - Sit it on the blocks of wood and hold your new diff into place, measure it from either side to make it central and put your digital angle gauge on the pinion to make sure its 90 or 3 degrees off 90 from the ground. A block of wood off the ground to the diffs nose will do the trick here as well. - Using all the original bars of the donor diff move one trailing arm at a time up to the right angle, if it hits sheet metal before getting to the right angle then chop it right out. If it hits the subframe then take the diff out and move the mounts on the diff; most likely inwards. - With the arms going to the right angle, fabricate mounts to hold them there - With that done on your 4 main upper and lower trailing arms it's time for your pan-hard, this unlike the other bars is fairly simple. This bar can be shortened to suit and should be done last. Make it as long as possible so the mount needs to be on the other far side. As for the angle it's simple: 0 degrees. - Take the springs out and lower your car right down without the wood in there and lower it until there is about maybe 30mm of clearence off the ground. If it can't do this then chop out whatever is in the way including the sub frame. Remake the subframe if needed of the same profile or larger. This is a good change to remake the floorpan, put some ripples in it for strength. - Fit your springs and dampners and your set Also avoid shortening your diff arms, doing so will mess with your geometry. Holden don't have a good grasp of anything like that but still it's some weird voodoo shit that you could make even more wrong that what they have. don't even think about IRS Comments?

yes can't help physics unfortunetly. the drag racing guys chop hole holes out of the rear floor-pan and things like that. I stick with what I said, make some measurements but I would think a TA22 read diff would be the right width. One catch is that its 4 x 114 instead of 4 x 100 that you have now, can be re-dilled though. You would also probably need a custom fuel tank because knowing toyota they used last bit of room back there to fit it in. Jack up your car and have a good look in the back.

I would rather convert an ae92 to rwd than drive a commodor. If this guy is dedicated enough, has the means and the time then I say go for it. I mean I do have this weird idea thats been going around in my head for a while: Suzuki mightyboy with a stock looking body but a tube frame with a lengthened wheelbase, wider track and something like a 13B renesis engine for a powerplant.

and how much time would you be prepared to spend on it? The rear end fabrication would be a significantly bigger issue that the transmission tunnel. You would have to chop the floor out and remake the whole thing to probably fit a TA22 diff or something.

ok whats your budget and what can you do yourself

look on your firewall for the main plate and see what the transaxle code is

anastasios: ke70 = right hand drive charmant there are a few diffs that came out in ae86's and although the length is the same and they will bolt in but normally different.

ok what model engine does it have

hey nice reply! anyway heres my take: to ask such a vauge question I assume your new to mechanicals right? well that being the case can I suggest maybe just an exhuast upgrade and some form of cold ait intake if you have a 4afe?

sure thing, heeaps of good info on more conventional conversions on here

its a fairly serious conversion, I wouldn't suggest it

yes well said Hiro. I would think a 5S engine could be had pretty cheap like a few hundred. They are easy to find from a self serve wrecker but its not a small job pulling one out

look on ae86drivingclub forums an R31 is a popular conversion and I have done two myself, a third soon it seems. I am going to be a month or two yet so your out of luck.

well I don't see why you would have to mod it at all. With the mount design I have in mind you just bolt them to the SR block and then it uses the stock 4ac rubber mounts to the crossmember. Stock arms are fine or XT130 corona if you want -1 to -1.5 degree of camber which is excellent for grip.

I wont have a price on the mounts till I make my first set. Using the S13 crossmember, the lower control arms or both totally messes up your steering geometry

yeah fair enough, I am pretty ignorant you see as I have only ever driven one 3sge (gen 1) and yesterday a 5sge, the 5s had more power everywhere but maybe the 3s was half dead?

oh I don't know Hiro, if someone like the mid range poke of an engine then I can understand why they would like it. Rolla: whatever it takes would be very simular to a 3S conversion, do a search for 3sge conversion. Not a good first conversion

welcome to the forum I might be able to help you with the mounts soon enough, wiring shouldn't be much of an issue try a few searches for this topic whats your location?

the engineer I saw had no issue with it (victoria)

can I suggest a more specific thread title in the future, it helps you get more people who can answer your question

I will send you a PM

which one of those is the 33 series? a 20v has more power than all of them and bolts right in

look I don't want to be unpolite but if your asking the question if it can be done then theres an overwealming chance you can't do it and see it through. This sounds harsh but the way it is is that if you are learning the basics of what it takes to fit it right now then you are little prepared for the serious parts of the conversion. So whats so good about this engine anyway? whats its specs?

to be honest probably about 3 months