Sam_Q

yeah as above, I just opened this thread from an email and only now do I realise that I am on the wrong forum, I am not a moderation on this one, hahhaa

this might get more of the right attention in the south australia section, want me to move it there? either that or you move to victoria, heheeh

the 16v rwd one is like the 4ac, any fwd 16V 4age had an external thermostat the 4afe and 7afe engines had a 20v style thermostat

interesting, so you think the 16v engines where a bit of stop-gap measure instead of them having to redesign the head?

A table of contents is very much a must, as is more clearly defined sub-sections I think. With the top outlet you mean this? I just can't see it as a copy of any kind. I am just using an adapter plate to use an existing water outlet pipe (albeit modified) to be a new outlet. The yager is an all in one solution to an a top outlet and thermostat with no bypass pipe, something I don't plan to really do under normal circimstances. This one above is just an outlet, no thermostat and has a bypass line which is designed to be used with an external thermostat. I went this way because it saved me making something from scratch as my fabricated effort really sucked. I also just can't see how I was undignified with that debate over the rear plates, that was more of a misunderstanding than anything anyway. Now that I think about it I want to put a pic of that Yager outlet on my guide as well if it isn't there already, it deserves more credit than it gets. Heres a pic of that outlet on the head: as you can see it's very much not intended to be hooked up to 4ac rear pump. I from the start had in mind for people to use an external thermostat as it's the easiest option. I at this stage am not really keen on making another fabricated outlet that does suit these pumps as there isn't much demand for it vs the time needed and personal cost on my end. Oh yeah and the whole not enough time to scratch myself thing, hence why I had to wait till a Sunday to answer this post. It's one of the many things that in the future I will consider. On Niz's car it should of been a simple 90 degree bend in the hose, probably using the hose off a VN. Either way that outlet is not as good as it should be and just for the record he is getting something new or his money back. It was Matts engine I was refering to when I said "apparently there is no issue not using a bypass". I only used the term 'apparently' because I avoid quoting other people information that is given to me as fact, even if it is from a reliable source like here.

hey guys I have spent an insane amount of time over the last year and a half writing this: Sams new 20v cooling guide Suggestions and feedback welcome, particularly for grammar errors, english isn't my forte. I will post this to the other forums as well. Disclaimer: I have this on my own website which has parts for sale. In many parts of this guide it uses pictures of my own parts. This is because I was the owner of these pictures and it's what I had available. I where possible included photos of other options and talked about whats good and bad with each option including my own. I did not write this guide for financial gain, even if I did it would be stupid as I would never get the money back in proportion to the amazingly huge amount of time to write it. Sam-Q

wow very clean, now about those hub-caps..

victoria is a still a big place, what suberb is the dash?

KaiShin: sorry although I could find out easy enough what to do I won't as I have a "part time job" thats for 5 days a week. So any time I have left is for my cooling bits and the continued work on the ta22 rack and pinion conversion Beauc: hahhaha, to determine which seeds where sown by the owner of the land and which where sown in the middle of the night by the enemy (bible bashing thing). Yeah I got a screw loose but it's all good right?

there used to be an option to use the stock ecu with an additional module on the ignition output however it's no longer available. There is much talk on club4ag about triggering all of 4 installed coil-packs at once with some sneaky wiring but it sounds a bit hit and miss. I have a simple and cheap option of doing it but I don't have time to research and test the idea. You stock pedal box can be modded to take the master cylinder

it should be something like a 30min job I think by memory. Take off the cover, swap seal and put it back on. I am trying to remember if there was anything in the way

where the later versions called Seca's too? if so I have made a mistake as I thought the only engine that he could be talking about is the 7afe

- an aftermarket ecu to drive the igniton or the dizzy relocated to the front of the engine -you will need a cooling system kit simular to that of a 20V, I am going to make one for myself so it's possible I can make two. - "4age to KE" engine mounts - spigot bearing - cut and shut manifold to face fowards - T50 trans and custom tailshaft

thanks, pity it's so damn ugly

well I did it and its good now for about 4 years. Although I don't suggest it, I did use a normal epoxy. I say go for JB-Weld. There are two types and one is rated for high temperatures, use that one, mix it well and you shouldn't ever have any problems.

no polished exhaust ports here. I just used the rotary burr and let it be after I was finished shaping. As for my engine no it doesn't have a supercharger, I am guessing your looking at my custom made air-box. Basically it goes like this: -air through the pod filter at the front - into air box - sucked into individual trumpets inside airbox - through the throttles and then into the engine and out the exhaust In other news things are working out well for me going to a watts link conversion, I have organised a fresh bottom end for my engine to be swapped over and lastly I am getting a reliable 8L/100km in traffic without driving slow.

forgot to mention if you want something turned up let us know

well if you want to be really tight what you can do is just glue a pipe in each one and run a short rubber hose between them. I used normal epoxy for my engine. This obviously isn't a 16V but you get the idea

toymods has a heap of info on twincharging

as above. For your speaker install have a look here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=33820 for the front speakers I suggest Jaycar response 4" or 5" if you can fit them

I can tottaly confirm the above, I have for a long time run a pod near the bottom in-front of my radiator and there are lots of puddles here. I never noticed anything hitting puddles or going behind other cars but it did clog up somewhat quick.

try cleaning out your engine as it could be carbon deposits. Apparently a Subaru produce called "sea-foam" is the best

for what car/engine/trans combo?

washers is a bit crude though, if I couldn't weld it the least I would do is cut the thickness needed out of a plate to the right shape and have the hole in the middle

how would you bypass the bikes gearbox?