Sam_Q

and what system did you have before

hmm ok, let me get back to you on that one

looks like a normal 16V GE one to me

old thread dig up time

thats too vauge a question. The right way to go is with an aftermarket ecu but that's not cheap. There is one with one already in south Australia thats real cheap right now if anyones on the lookout. There is no one single universal kit as such, just combinations of parts available. I have the three main parts for the cooling system, the RWD clutch line, spigot bearings but nothing for the intake

I was thinking someone could potentially make something like that in a lathe and use the stock bolt, however the original crossmember would have to have a slot in it and a shouldered section welded on. Also everyone should avoid negative roll center adjusters unless they have a very specific reason for not doing so.

yeah I can do it if it's not a big job as I don't have much time. I am also in the South eastern suberbs in Endeavour Hills. Ironicly I don't drink beer considering where I am from however in return I would be happy to do a trade for your labor. Lets just say part of it would involve a shovel, are you fit? edit: forgot to mention I have a good quality gas mig and full workshop tools

also I have read from someone that went from a 2/3T engine to a 20V they said that as expected the engine power wasn't much more but the engine was significantly smoother and nicer to use.

is this an LB or something? I have a friend with an LA that has a 20V

you will likely find due to their low cost the easist option would be to just source a 4ac engine and drop it in. Might even be cheaper than a gasket set

interesting, quick one for you; how did you adapt the engine mounts? custom metal brackets to the crossmember or did you mod the crossmember itself? also why not use the cooling kit you bought instead of what's on the engine now. Now I want to come across in the best way possible- I think compared to the level of detail your putting in elsewhere it's letting you down. ALso you might want to do something about that signiture pic as I don't think the mods will like it.

it will physically bolt on and all the accessories like the timing belt and all that should also be a straight fit as well. However there will be a compression ration change, almost definately upwards

I plan on making some but not for many months. I do believe that the standard pedal box can be converted to hyrdaulic, I will find out soon enough.

wow I am impressed, so many people think you just run the hardest springs and bars that you can and then put low grip tyres on the back.

it's looking excellent, any chance for more pics? maybe zoomed out more? also I am glad that my original queries where not misunderstood and being condemnation.

wow this would have to be the first s13 converted front suspension that isn't you know... shit. Well unless we are missing something so how are you going to make the steering arms? mill them up?

ah ok, so effectively the width of the front will be identical to an S13 then yes?

I am in the S.E suberbs, I can help you with part of it but not for a few months as I am way too busy, whats your time frame?

indeed your right, good to see someone on here who really knows their stuff. When I was thinking custom steering arms I had in my had for a different angle or something like that, not up and down which now that I think about it makes a whole lot of sense. So the lower control arms are going to be drasticly shortened? I have to say I like how civilised this thread has been, if there was a simular post on ae86dc all hell would of broken loose.

very interesting thread, would you be able to tell me whats involved in shortening a steering rack?

sorry for the delay, it's a bummer that I have to wait till a Sunday these days before giving a detailed forum answer. now before I start I don't want to be miunderstood as a someone who just puts someone down, I like your ambition and your old Corolla looks like a good package. I just want to stop you from having any issues that will cause you problems. Oh and you seem to be a kick arse driver. One other thing is I only have a loose grasp of suspension princibles and I may make a mistake here. now moving the pivot points on the crossmember for the lower control arms in any direction will cause bump steer and its as simple as that. This can not be adjusted for with any custom steering arms or anything like that and while making them all parallel reduces it somewhat they all are still mismatched in length so it will still be there. This is why only the strut end can be adjusted for roll center. Also moving the pivot point up or down will automaticly make them anything but parallel. Another thing I picked up won't this combination give you about -15 degrees camber? I can't see acherman being an issue as it's more flexable in design than people give it credit for, afterall people still don't agree if you should use 2/3 down the car or the diff as the intersecting point to work out the angle. For drifting I would lean towards significantly less acherman as it stops you having the equivolent of toe in while countersteering whilst going sideways

what in the CBD?

thats promising, I will look up those other two cars

big plans, how likey are you are to go ahead with it? There are three main geometry problems with your concept that I can see straight out. but I don't have time to explain now. I will as soon as I can. Now why an S13 crossmember?

yes I can see why it externally looks like a simular product. I would of thought the hot spots would be around the inside of the bore where there would be no way of knowing?