Sam_Q

an ecu for $300!?

an engine shouldn't blow that quick regardless unless it was built wrong or has detonations. 20psi is pretty serious how much power are you and him making?

well some people run disproportionally stiffer springs to stop tramp but it's a completely wrong approach and will make you go one step fowards and two back so to speak. I am sure someone of your aility could whip something up without much dramas

great progress, your going to use some kind of anti-tramp rods right?

thanks Matt, another thing I forgot to mention is I would think that the engine life of a K engine boosted to 4age type top end power will also be under a fair fit of load and hence have a faily high wear rate. Open to correction on all my points of course.

it's much more logical to post the small amount of information I ask for here instead of each person on this thread individually looking it up.

that peak power though, what about everywhere else, I bet if you compare one power curve against the other the K engine would look very sad indeed. Also it would never be as free revving and as good on fuel. Another thing is that on a generous dyno?

sounds like something is wrong, I am with Redspirit get it profesionaly checked out. Get the timing done while your at it.

well there are definate merits to it but for some conversions it's very much not worth it. A 20v front cut into RWD is a great example, when converting you can't normally use the ECU, loom, exhaust manifold, exhaust, gearbox, etc.. what do you have in mind?

s13 crossmembers cause geometry issues and put the engine quite far back. Fitting a 4age is an issue if your going turbo later on, as you will need to covert to a W box, make manifolds, get a ZE bottom end or change pistons and so on. With some reluctance I say get a CA18 or SR20. I prefer the CA18 idea more

and how would you know the torque figure? I think I know what mistake you made

I agree with the above, the 1UZ is quite a nice fit.

hey nice job Matt, so how did you attach the vinyl to the board? I can see you stretched it around the edges and then is it stapled on the back?

well said, the gears via spring force try and turn in oppersite directions so the cam is always in the same position relative to the other cam. This improves timing accuracy and as a friend found out stops a surprisingly large amount of noise as the gears flop around. Look I am not explaining it very well, I suggest a workshop manual for this one

I don't think it has the bolt from factory, what you do is push the two halves of the hear in oppersite directions till you can slide something in that hole, anything that size, put the cams in and release the pin. Damn slave gear drive...

send me an email to here:

as in get it here on a tow truck? so the radiator support would be in place and just tack welds need to put in? I like welding sheet metal

so you would need someone to turn up with their own welder to your place? if so where is your car at exactly?

won't work with just making relocation points because as you say you will find the diff needs a lot more room. That's why you will find FWD cars almost always have a deeper floor. The way you could line up the rear end is to get a digital angle gauge on each of the suspension arms and then when your done check that their all the same, however swapping the whole floorpan should take care of that one. Your right though about it being a very serious project.

"and just fit a rear floor" you make it sound easy, familiar with cut'n'shuts?

a whole rear floorpan inc sub frame and mounting points, a very serious job

4age 20 valve: here have a read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine and my website might help: http://s-86.com/articles.html

I agree with the above not only are 4ag engines everywhere and cheap the 1GG engines are hard to get parts for

well if you follow ke70daves guidelines you can take on V8s, well 5L ones anyway.

yes an engine swap is the only real way to get going to a reasonable pace, unless you make up a bolt on turbo kit..