Sam_Q

well possibly one group buy coming right up! I was planning on making a small batch anyway including some for a 7A bottom end. I hope the aluminium supplier is open this week

$40, can be done this weekend. I will have a look at that other one for you.

I actually have a second hand one but like all the other ones out there it looks pretty sad.

I can make you one out of 6068 if you like. I had a customer who wanted one, gave me the specs and when I was slowing in getting back to him didn't respond.

same engine/clutch/trans, both crossmembers but not the rear half of the tailshaft and diff

you can slide leafs, just use anti-tramp rods and a pan-hard rod. Although putting a panhard in isn't that easy

oh yeah easy as. I have the tool you need, I just need to pick it up from the folks around the corner. You can use it if you do the job in my workshop on a weekend unassisted. Being 15min away is handy. My work is from good to steaming dog shit, I usually don't post pics of the later.

yes Endeavour Hills, got a pic of the head so I can see what type you need?

yes you guys are right you could in theory use the lower pivot point and it would save you chopping it in half, although it won't fit with some engines. It's just me being pedantic I guess and wanting things in an ideal way. Either way the pedal would require a fair bit of mods and a flange section welded on. I stand by my original statement it's not easily done but quite possible.

engine model and more exact location? unless you mean CBD when you say melbourne

do you have a pic of it in the car with a view from underneith?

depends on the following: clutch type driving style drifting style track surface car weight engine power and so on. The FAQ is in the bar at the very top. Click on the link in my signiture for any 20v conversion parts you might need

too many variables. Have a look in the FAQ section for upgrade options

no you can't, uless your perepared to have the clutch master lower down you have to chop the thing and move it up. Nice job there too, I need to ask you something about it on your thread.

the pivot points between the two pedal boxes are different, to mod one I had to do the following: - chop a third of the housing apart - shift it up about 40mm and rejoin it to the main housing - make some braces and weld them in the gaps - make a new flange for the master and weld it onto the side of the housing - modify pedal to have a pivot point which is much harder than it sounds as it's not even close

Luc - Greenmac on this foums is doing this conversion right now with an adapter plate.

I have done it and your mechanic is full of shit, well assuming you want the master cylinder in the same spot as the ae71 model. That's the short answer, let me know if you want the long answer

is there really a need for a crank grind if it hasn't spun a bearing?

I don't think ae71/86 rubber mounts work. I tried it and I found with the bottom of the sump level with the crossmember there is not enough room to put the oil filter on.

from my memory you have a 4 x 114 stud pattern and new wheels are available if you know where to look- one brand is sportmax. A 20V exhaust flange has the outer 2 holes further outwards, it's easy to redrill a 20v flange to make it 16V compatiable. So what pipes are they?

tried a search? have a look on the ae86drivingclub as well

if it was anything to do with the engine it would do it in every gear at the same revs

well he did say it does it when he is going 110, but your right he could be coasting

tailshaft balance, not the wheels or else it would do it with no connection to the throttle

it's pretty hard to beat running coilpacks with an OEM or aftermarket ecu. Regardless I have a few pictures of various kits and I also made my own at one stage