you know beerhead I know that you have more practical knowledge than me but I am really scratching my head with this one. I did some proper measurements and I found that the FE gear I have happens to have a circumference of almost exactly 360mm, which means for every 0.1mm shaved off the cams get retarded 0.1degrees. So for a 0.5mm head shave you advance the cams half a degree. I said nothing in my previous post that related to me having a "she will be right" attitude. I was actually using the reference of my own experience on an engine using a cam gear that I used to alter the advance/retard and the results I got with it and other experiences of people with 20V engines. I admit what I worked on had a stock cam but I found that less than a few degrees did crap all. I admit it's not an ideal comparison but I would of thought from my experience and others that half a degree of retard it would do very little. So a bit of an educated guess maybe but not a careless expectation that it would work.
I only have a basic knowledge with cam results in the real world, can you tell me how advancing a high duration cam causes the power to shift lower in the rpm, shouldn't it do the opposite? Also why don't the aftermarket cams off the shelf have the grinds offset so they automatically have them with the additional advance with the stock gears? I mean isnt that the point of buying an upgraded set? or is it in regard to making the most of what you have in terms of a compromise for overall driveablity?
You probably already worked it out but the static calculated CR of the 4afe using the later head would be 14.4:1 using the smallport pistons and a 1.2mm gasket.
Same goes for the 20V cooling system, I know that the de-icing chamber gets the hot water instead of the cold and it was designed to be that way. So as a result the air has to go through about 150mm of a port that might be around 40 degrees hotter. I have done my own testing with this and calculations, I have done comparasins between my engine and someone elses who has very simular mods and I ran this type of cooling system for about 4 years before I sold any conversion parts. As I understand it I am using something a cooling system design thats similar to a 16V that Toyota also spent millions on. There was no guesswork here, no assumptions and has been proven on the road and off at the racetrack by multiple people. I have busted my balls making sure everything I sell works and I have a lifetime warranty against defective work/function on my cooling parts to back it up. I think its really disrespectful you take a cheap stab at what I am doing and I thought I knew you better than that.
BTW my offer still stands on refunding/swapping that early model rear bypass you ended up with simply because I think it could be better.
All that said I admit sometimes I am going to screw up and get info wrong, misjudge something or make a wrong educated guess. All I ask is a polite reason why I am wrong.