Sam_Q

yay! I hate it when put windows in the back of pannelvans plans?

if your up for it change all theother seals too, what I have seen leak is the seals behind the oil pump and also the seals that are to go around the studs that hold down the cam cover. To adjust the valve clearence you change the shim thickness. You do this by either buying another one new or second hand and installing it of if its tight then just getting the bottom side of the shim surface ground

wtf!? I have never even seen this model before

being blunt why don't you just get an aftermarket ecu? might be cheaper for you in the long run. There was a wolf on here real cheap a while back and aftermarket ecu's with looms go cheap on ebay

well I don't know much about this so I could be wrong with what I am about to say... Unlike Nissan ECU's the toyota ECU's don't use a rewiteable EPROM based main processor chip. The chip can't be altered and therefore the original chip needs to be either bypassed or removed and replaced with a new one

I know a way to do a cooling system that only needs 3mm of clearence, or flush if your ok welding the head

no worries, if you need help with a 20v conversion in the future send me a message

no chain on any A series engine, every couple of months someone asks about a G head on a 4ac, I have seen it over 12 times atleast

I still think chopping the firewall to fit a dizzy cap is stupid

like the crank not being a counterweighted design and hence potentially wanting to break over 6000rpm continously which a 20v does so easly, having to change pistons or else the compression ratio would be quite low, needing to change rods unless you have an early 4age crank and use the risky stock ones, price of gaskets, doing the work and all when 20v engines are fairly cheap to buy, etc..

no, too many issues with the idea

any pics you have would be good. As for your offset pin you need to talk to an expert, something I only sound like I am. with machining the stock pistons I would be very wary of machining them down as your afffecting their strength and probably even the expansion ratio, but thats just an educted guess on my behalf. However I am sure there is plenty of extra meat in the turbo pistons. So what happens when you use the stock 5s pistons as is and use a custom rod?

I think its silly that anyone would chop the firewall to clear the cooling system when me and others sell the necessary cooling parts to only need less than 30mm of clearence from the back of the head. Unless they didnt know that such a kit was available of course..

well the crank angle sensor in itself doesnt take up much room and all the engine and trans mounts would have to be made up anyway so I think it would just be a case of sitting the engine far enough foward to make it fit yeah? I would be guessing that the position of the heater core is the same as the ke30 and ke55s so the rear bypass plate would need the outlet for the heater facing the exhuast side which is no big deal. Let us know if you need some conversion parts for this.

I have seen it before and it had the same mistake. don't get me wrong your car is great and I think your doing a good job but I just think the design of your intake manifold is wrong. I will do you a diagram later, heres what I was planning for my 4af head: if the throttles are just adapted to go directly to the head then there will be massive eddies in the air path as the air flows over a sharp edge. My aeronautical friends tell me the maximum change in angle in any intake before stuffing up the laminar flow is 7 degrees. There needs to be a radius from the intake ports angle to the horizontal angle of the throttles.

what about the intake manifold? I think you would be losing heaps of power through it, want me to draw a diagram?

amazing mods, two things though: how did you adapt the valves off a 4agze when the 4afe valves a so different? I think you might be losing a heap of airflow from your intake manifold to the cylender head, wouldnt there be a sharp step between them from the inside of the intake manifold to the angle of the inlet ports?

so whats the specs of that engine? also was that adjustable cam gear or a one off fabricated item?

well I would actually like for there to be more tolluene in my fuel but the government took care of that a while back by putting a heavy tax on it to not make it have any discount over normal fuel. I don't know if United would chuck something like MEK in the fuel as they arnt a small company. Well I atleast know their bowsers measure their fuel fairly correctly unlike Caltex

got a vid?

hey thats a fairly decent time, what has been done to the engine?

ah shit, I had my car tuned for the fuel that was in the tank which I though was 98 octane E10 fuel, now I find out that a little while ago United fuels have changed it so only 95 octane fuel has the ethanol blend.. crap!! so its just normal 98 octane fuel for me

furryfrog: I believe that I might be getting a primary harmonic resonance in the intake, a secondary exhuast resonance or both at around 6000 RPM. Theoretically I am getting a primary resonance in the intake at 6000 according to the figures but I know that from other peoples experience that 20V engines don't respond predictably to intake length changes. Also that dip is between the two optimum settings of the twin VVT pulley positions. As far I understand the two different colors show one with the VVT being used and the other with the VVT being turned on and off opposite to whats ideal. I am going to experiment with a different set of extractors and different length intake trumpets to see if I can shift that curve around. I also want to make an angled intake spacer to correct the intake angle problem that 20v engines have stock. This is meant to increase the maximum theoretical flow on a flow-bench on a stock 20v intake by 10%, however mine has been ported to help this already.

took a pic of my dyno run: its quite strange in that it makes max power at two points in the rev range

oh i forgot to add the strangest part, I used to have a stong rasp sound in my exhuast as shown in my crappy vids: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=urO6YNOpAk4 http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=QSBbZwcjhk4 now that rasp is tottaly gone and its smooth and significantly quieter. I was told and I always believed it was because of the high overlap in the stock cams but I guess not...