Boost+k

if your gonna do dodgy stuff like that you should at least use washing liquard or something else thats biodegratable

ive seen at least 3 different pumps, maybe four, as long as you get the matching pully they all fit, but the piping for the heater can change from pump to pump

I'm glad it worked out for ya... you can probally get rid of any left over tramp by playing with shocks

so which head are you guys with 4a pistons running? twin squish?

so howd you do at the gymkhana?

i would taper the ports till the got to size of the exctrator, or the sudden change or size would slow down the flow, if its slowly tapering out then the hot gasses should still be expanding just make sure you still have enough area for the gasket to seal on :lolcry:

yea if you have to ask then the task is probally out of your scope

nope... I'm going something more simple... sc12(with no clutch) off the side with pipe to inlet, turbo blowing through the supercharger with the throttle just before the charger, then water/meth injected before the charger when it hits 10psi or so charger should be geared to about 5psi, then chuck another 10 or so from the turbo, to start with, out through a t40, O dish motor, with most of the good bits from my old build, but new oversize pistons turbo i am a little undecided, was leaning towards a vf8, but now i am thinking twin scroll todhhd, both of which i have, always wanted a twin scroll turbo K series :) i think if you turned the charger off it would be quite hard to tune it for a smooth curve with some tricky use of valves to control the flow

damn thats cool, any shots from underneath the rear of the wagon, keen to see what it turned out like and your 2dr is my favourite car on here!!!

i'll deff build a few more turbo k series before I'm done... my twin charged injected 5k is still sitting there with all the parts ready to be put togeather :D just waiting for a worthy shell to turn up, like a ke17 or ke26 :) i've got a couple of good vids from the last munji day but I'm only on dail up so would take me like 20hours to upload, lol yea the su was a prick to start on cold mornings, alot of the time it was easier to just push it, i used a 1.75" SU i think, i will measure it, it was a factory blow-tho Su from a MG montego , same place i got the factory malpassi reg (also i had no choke because it was all electric and i never figured out how to work it, 6 wires for a choke???) the su was the smoothist and i never had any fueling issues BUT i couldn't get the thing to stop leaking, i think you need to make new brass bushes for the throttle linkages to fix it proper so i'd say weber would be a far better option if you can build a easily removable box for it 3k will be suck thro SU, probally with no bonnet :y:

yea i wouldn't recomend reuseing them, but i have done it in a 5k before, only because it was the weekend and i needed the car to get to work on monday

funny you should say that because i just brought the starlet back, unfortently it has been left outside and wreaked, its unbelievably rusty, i am going to use it in a new race series starting at a new track thats almost finished being built over here. its called le-mons racing, max you can spend on your car is $700, with the exception of safety, fuel and wheels the race lasts 2 hours and you must have at least 2 drivers so its gonna get some crazy backyard mods to turn it into the fastest car i can build for next to nothing, plans seem to be falling togeather nicely for a rapid 3k turbo :)

brent is right, theres 3 12mm blots holding each plate in, remove those and the plate and shock come out togeather and you can then seperate

yea good point... i lost count, got a pile of at least 6 down the side of the house :D (having 4 puk clutch don't help -although that was only on the last 2, which lasted about 2 weeks between them) never blew a t40 tho but my s13 box is going to blow soon by the sounds of it :)

a welded diff in a standard car is dangerous, but if you car is setup for it then i believe they are safe because you always know excatly what the car is going to do but yea i destroyed about 5 diff heads in my ke70 with 4k/5k turbos then i started welding them up, then you snap axels and usally destroy the head driving home on one axel so then i went to hilux lsd first, soon got scared of that because it would often open up when i didn't want it to, now run locked, but have done the whole suspension setup to suit, and have the power to get me out of any dodgy suituations people always seem to say you'll end up sideways changing lanes on the motorway etc... but you won't unless you tell the car to, i drive my car to work at least once a week and thats 70k's and its often raining

cheers guys... hopefully it'll keep getting better, i almost have it dailed in as i want it, just need to figure out how to build a cage :) should be tuning in the next month or so, in time for powercruise, hopefully crack around 210kw atw

heres a vid of one of my old 5k turbo setups, can't see much but you can hear stuff, (when it cuts out in the middle it was becasue i had some stuff in the boot and it swung around and smashed the fuel pump relay ;) )

unside down.... and also you need to make those metal straps to hold the pack togeather or you will have issues, mine i folded around it with a small gap so i could put it in the vise and keep it tight then welded it to make sure it would stay togeather (25x5mm bar) just looking at my pics again i just relised that the pic of the leaf pack on its own is my early street setup, and the pic in car is my stiffer drift setup, but neither give me any tramp

its the second one down from a rwd mazda 323 leaf pack i had lying around... chopped just behind the center, where my 35mm block sits, also i had to trim about 5-10mm off the front to stop it from every rubbing on the eye of the leaf i get no axel tramp, even when i put old worn shocks in, i would imange if you fitted cal-track design then you would need to make some wedges to adjust the pinion angle to get it all perfect

i fully agree, i think I'm stuck in the turbo mindset :( but yea even on a turbo i would only tidy up the bend and port the exit a little and taper it back down to try and let those exchast gasses expand as they escape although on a 7k you may run into trouble getting the ports to stay sealed, its hard enough on a turbo 5k

yep you can get your hydro cam reground, but only mildly adjustable valve trainis in almost every other k series so that a easy bit... theres a few different ways to get solid lifters, 1. 5k factory lifters = big bucks 2. chev lifters with datsun a12 pushrods + cheap but i hear the chev lifter is quite heavy? but it can't be that bad... 3. hollow out hydro lifters and find a pushrod to suit, (heard rumors of 3k rods) there is some smaller valve out there in the 2k engine if i remember right i don't know what the eariler post about opening up the eports is all about, but assume it means on a standard motor it an't gonna help you??? 7k with the right diff would make for a really nice car IMO

so had the club-k gymkhana in the weekend, and it was raining, I'm sure you can figure out what happened next :) heres a vid of one of the fun runs where i was taking people for rides

i found some pics of my rear end setup http://img96.imageshack.us/i/leaf2g.jpg/ http://img197.imageshack.us/i/leafpack.jpg/

I'm not a fan of light flywheels.... the other thing you havent mentioned is compression ratio, you'll need to bump it up to get the most out of a big cam also i would run a single weber over two SU's

owning those cones :DD http://wendycainphotography.com/beeoneoneo...9/_MG_7731b.jpg http://86fighters.files.wordpress.com/2009...3092_resize.jpg http://86fighters.files.wordpress.com/2009...2954_resize.jpg http://86fighters.files.wordpress.com/2009...resize-copy.jpg http://86fighters.files.wordpress.com/2009...7918_resize.jpg and heres a vid, it had a few small clips of me \/ \/ \/ the one marked "Drift Sessions by Team S Club" http://taupakidriftclub.wordpress.com/